Hi all, new here and am hoping for some advice. I'm going to be putting a 400 in my 78 f150 soon (has a wounded 351) and would like to add some mild performance. I'm handy with a wrench but lacking in knowledge for choosing parts. I don't want a hot rod, just something with a bit more go. Thinking cam headers intake and carb for now with stock heads. The truck will be on 33x12.5 tires with stock gears, not sure of ratio. Truck has a 4 speed, np435 I think. I have a Holley 1850-3 I took off a 390 that needs a rebuild. Also thinking an edelbrock 2172 cam with a timing set to get away from retarded cam timing. Truck will be a daily driver with occasional play time in the woods. Thanks for input in advance

 

I recommend a Weiand ACTION PLUS intake and long tube headers, dual exhaust using 2.5-inch mandrel bent tubing through free-flowing mufflers of your choice, and a 14x3 open element air cleaner housing with a K&N or paper filter.

Need more?... 130-amp 3G alternator and a two-speed Lincoln Mark VIII electric cooling fan.

 

Ditto what HIO said, plus swap out the factory cam and timing set.

 

Thank you both, any reccomendations on where to find a straight up timing set? Again I appreciate the help

 

You'll be pleased you chose the 2172.

Do not fit any cam without matching the valve springs etc to it.

Here's a helpful link :

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...2172/overview/

Note the question at the bottom of it !

You can do a search in summit for the timing chain.

 

That should have read timing set.

With the heads off, it will be worth calculating your static compression ratio.

Might be a bit low, 8 point something, so if you fancy new pistons etc to raise it.........

 

Cloyes double roller timing set. Rockauto.com.

It's the more expensive piece, but it allows for future expansion of goodies/ideas/modifications because there are multiple keyways in which to retard or advance the cam timing.

I've got the Cloyes double roller on my motor. Haven't run it yet, but it looks sexy.

Couple of images for your reference.



Notice how many keyways there are on the bottom sproket?



I've got mine pointed "straight-up". Bottom gear is on zero, pointed at 12 o-clock. Top gear has small indent, pointed at 6 o-clock.

 

Thanks, for the help. I don't think pistons are in the budget for me right now, maybe down the road. But for now I guess I'll start ordering parts and blow through my tax return. I'm wondering if that carb is worth rebuilding? I know nothing about it.

 

I've got a Summit clone 2172 cam in my 351M. New springs but they are stock spec. I think I have the Summit timing set too. Weiand has tested better than the Edlebrock manifold. It looks like you are heading in the direction I went here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html

I'm happy with what I have, for the price I paid. 400+ horses would be nice, but they ain't cheap.

 

Sorry... axons and dendrites were not firing.... not the Stealth intake - i meant the Weiand Action Plus intake.

 

That's why I advanced my 2172 two degrees from their recommendation.

 

Get the compression up on the 400 with some kb Pistons from Tmeyer. Stock compression is less than 8:1 and I believe Tims flat tops get you a little over 9:1

 

Tim Meyer is the Boss when it comes to these engines.
The Weiand intake that you can buy new is made in China and isn't exactly the same as the old US one. There is nothing wrong with an Edelbrock Performer, still US made.

The BS about camshaft timing just goes on and on. Read the truth from Bubba:
M-Block 351M/400 Performance

The 2172 Edelbrock cam looks like it'll increase peformance, just be sure the extra lift doesn't get you into trouble with coil bind or retainer to valve stem seal interference.

Your Holley R-1850 carb is a 600cfm carb and will be just fine once you rebuild it with a quality kit and set the floats, idle mixture screws, etc. Baseline for the idle mixture screws is 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. If you want more top end, the 70508 is a more modern version of the 750cfm 3310. The Street Avenger and Truck Avenger carbs are nice, too.

Uncork the exhaust with headers and 2 1/2 or 3" duals. Add an H-pipe to connect the two sides. Even if you elect to stay with cast iron manifolds, the better exhaust and H-pipe will help your engine breathe better.

You may find a quicker ignition advance curve helps acceleration, but you have to be careful with knocking. It's a fine line.

Good Luck!
R.

 

Mine has tmeyer pistons, double roller cam set, crower cam, balanced, original2150 2bbl and manifolds. I did shim the rockers and cut the heads, new valves, new seals, I think a 4bbl and headers would help, but you kick the spurs into it and it will flat scoot, speedo just runs right on up toabout 60. Tune in the thing and dialin the timing, it will run pretty good. If the heads are off, look them over, maybe mill them some, and go.

 

Cam timing. COMP Cams® - Sorry...


The sum5200 / Edelbrock2172 has a wide 112 LSA which among other things, "decreases cylinder pressure" and "raises torque to a higher rpm". Advancing a cam "builds more low end torque". http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...2172&submit=go

It's a very forgiving cam. Especially with low compression engines. If I were ambitious, I'd try another 2 degrees and see if it knocks. If I were running .411 gears, I probably would have run it straight up. As it is, with a thousand lb load, I can cruise along @ 30 mph and 1,000rpm with no problems, on level ground. That's where I shift when not in a hurry.

Edit. That "sorry" in the comp cams link is a freaking mystery.
Edit. Lets toss this in here too. http://grantorinosport.org/BubbaF250/specs/specs02.html From Bubba.