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Did you remove the caps with the axle in place with steering components still connected?
If so, did you do anything with the C-bushings and/or radius arm bushings?
i pulled radius arms completely out. All new Poly bushings on frame side & new Poly C Bushings that came with my lift. Degreed for the added height. I also replaced trackbar bushings with MOOG Poly, and replaced swaybar links with Sky Jacker’s extended links with poly bushings.
Steering is likely original, and does not have an adjustable draglink. It’s far cheaper & stronger to build my own steering out of GM “1-ton” tierods found on 3/4-1 ton trucks using 1.5”x.250” wall DOM. With my dealer prices I can do my own for under $180.
I am trying to figure out if I can do the bushings without completely removing the axle. i know I will have to remove springs and perches to get to the C-bushings but will I have enough wiggle room to get the radius arms to slip out?
I am trying to figure out if I can do the bushings without completely removing the axle. i know I will have to remove springs and perches to get to the C-bushings but will I have enough wiggle room to get the radius arms to slip out?
it can be done. It’s easier disconnect steering from the gear box, which i didn’t do, but I was working off of a lift vs jackstands & floor jack.
I
Finally made time to start cleanup in my shop & scrubbed down the 460 block so I could start assembly. Had a couple casualties as in my finger between engine stand handle & side brace. Then walked backwards into my crank & let my leg stop the fall! Just another day in the shop!
i started checking ring gaps today. Cylinders were originally about .0015 out from .030, they ranged from .0285 to .0290. Checked #1 & 2 take out rings & they measured .035-.040 when should be .016.
the new Clevite moly coated rings measured .016 on Cyl 1-4, will check the rest tomorrow & get the pistons in.
07-04-2018, 01:47 PM
