Sockets are in great condition. I've checked and cleaned them.

 

Ordered new Clevite cam, main and rod bearings tonight. Can't wait to get the parts in, so I can start reassembling the 460 the proper way, and have it ready to go in the truck when warmer weather decides to stick around here.

 

Here's a question for you on your 460 since I'm going through mine as a first time re-builder and I'm thinking of ways to save some money, if it's possible anyway. Are you simply putting new cam bearings in the block and then reusing the old cam and lifters? From what I've read, you can reuse old cams/lifters as long as you put the lifters back in so they're on the same lobe they cam off of. I have two engines I'm using parts from and if it's possible I'd love to take the cam out of my engine with a bad block and use it in the engine with the good block since the bad block has an aftermarket cam and the good block is factory. Would I be able to just put in some new cam bearings in the good block, take the cam out of the bad block and document which lifter came from where and transfer it over to the good block and slather on assembly lube and have it all work out? Otherwise I'm leaning towards a new cam, because I don't see the point in taking an engine all the way down to a bare block and then putting an OE cam back in unless I was doing a concourse restoration or something along those lines.

 

Sorry, I went back through your thread and saw you were going to get a new cam. I'm still curious though, lol.

 

I've reused cams before, just as long as you said, you keep each lifter in the same place. I do the same with pushrods as well. I know plenty who have done this with no ill-results. In my case though, I had planned a new cam, and after tear-down, glad I had previously decided that, as the last "builder" of the motor, either didn't know what assembly lube was, or didn't prime the pump before starting for break-in. Not the mention the signs of fuel soak on the driver's side bank.

 

Well that's good to know. I did take some time to watch a few videos on rebuilds to get an idea of what I'm getting myself into. I saw one where the guy took a drill and stuck it down the distributor bore and spun the oil pump shaft before starting it, I'm assuming that's "priming the oil pump", provided you spin it the right direction. My goal is to spend as little money possible to replicate as many of the specs that my old 460 has. It dyno'd at 427hp 510lb.ft at the crank when I had it built many moons ago. I figure if I get the good block machined like the old one and transfer as many parts that are possible and then purchase new replacements to make up for the ones I can't, then I should be good to go!

I will say I'm envious of your work space and your other projects! If I had a nice chunk of land to store all the projects I've wanted that I've come across I'd be buried. Seeing the Galaxy you have there reminds me of the '65 Galaxie 500 hard top I could have gotten way back when as a project for $500. Also, I admire that you have the kids helping. I had one of my 5 year old twin daughters help me put the engine stand together. She thought the 1/4 ratchet I gave her to use as her own was "cute". I can't really complain though. lol

 

Videos can be a great tool/resource! Yes should always prime the oiling system before attempting to crank the engine over. I've used old distributors to make a priming rod before, and also have a Melling Priming tool for the 351M/400/429/460s since I don't have a spare/junk distributor laying around. My personal suggestions on your motors, is to take the one w/ the bad block apart, checking for wear on pistons (there are specs for MAX allowed up/down play in the rings if at or above MAX then you'll need new pistons) I always like checking clearances on rod and main bearings, even if I'm planning to replace them, so I have a starting point to ID wear of original bearings and/or crank.

Thanks for the props on the projects and "shop" My shop space is just a 2 car attached shop at my parent's house. It was the 1 thing my dad had special instructions for when they built the house in the early 80s. (It's attached by the roof, but a separate structure w/ concrete blocks around entire perimeter. He did this as he intended to use it as a shop-space, the door between the shop and house has steel/fire barrier inside also) I've built a couple vehicles outside the shop in the driveway, such as a ground up rebuild and customization of a 95 Jeep Wrangler. Right now I've got tools taking up most of my work-space, and that's w/ several of my lesser used metal fab items, or my engine hoist stored nearby in a shed. I'll be building a 40x60 shop in the future, with plans of a 20x60 lean-to coming off the rear that will hold space for metal fab, parts storage, etc...

And congrats on getting your daughter to help! I'm a 4th generation mechanic. So I'm trying to ensure the skill and passion continues on in my children. My 9yo says he wants to do it as a profession, and we're lucky in our area to have a vocational program for highschool kids, where they can get their basic certifications. (Welding, Mechanics, Masonry, and more!) So if I can teach him a lot before he decides to go that route, he'll be ahead of the game.

 

 

Well since I ordered new 35's for my CJ7, I ordered a 4" lift for the 78. I'll take the BFG KM2s off my Jeep and put on the 78, as they still have some street life left, but not the best for off-roading in the rocks anymore. Jegs cancelled my order on my bearings as they couldn't confirm pricing w/ one supplier. So I still need to reorder cam/main/rod bearings.

 

 

 

 

im partial to no drop brackets myself, better look and much more clearance. works fine for 4" and less

 

 

I don't know what would be worse, running the old bearings or those "new" ones you got.