Ive built a few with DOVE and two with d3ve.
Grind the exhaust bumps out of the d3's and youll notice an improvement. Stock valves allow for plenty of flow for a mild cam.
youll be little weak on the compression with the dished pistons.
Good power to be had raising a point or two, aluminum heads really help with detonation as well
Just a mild cam, straight timing chain, cleaned up exhaust ports and headers with good timing curve and carb tune and youl easily be in the 400hp/500tq flywheel range.

You will love EFI, Im jealous

I ran l&l fender exits on one truck, they fit great, but even with a 4" lift 37's rubbed them like crazy, Only thing i hated about l&l headers was the 1-3/4 primaries were really too small, never understood why they dont offer a 1-7/8. They really build some nice high quality headers

 

Yea, I wish more companies offered conversion headers. I've ran Hooker's on a few cars in past, and always loved them. If I can score a TIG welder, I'd be tempted to build my own.


I'm going to get more info on which pistons are in there, so I can do the math on compression. I'm still tempted since it's down now, to take it to the machine show and get it decked, which would help. Based off edelbrock's dyno chart for their cam/intake combo with headers using 1-3/4" primaries, puts it around 455ft lb torque at around 2600 rpm. With the cleaned up heads, and running a tuned holley, I'd expect it closer to the 400/hp/500tq you mentioned. The 385 series is new to me, I've built a couple mild street FEs and some mild SBFs.

 

im a little rusty on specifics, i used to be able to fire off what CR you would have with flot tops and d3 heads, doove heads and dished pistons etc, and the two combustion chamber designs. as well as d2's, c8, c9's etc. ,
My last build was .060 over had forged rods, flat top pistons and edelbrock heads with 12.x:1 compression. ran flat out awesome

i learned most everything about the builds from here and from netwokr54 460 forum, which is ogne and most of the guys are at 460 ford dot com

i think your going to be down in the 8:1 range, those pistons look to be the matching pistons to the d3 heads you have form the 70's

I look forward to seeing the build!

Im going to building a 400 here soon, it will be my first, looking forward to it. (wifes truck, shes set on a 400m, otherwise it would be a bbf of some sort

 

Wow, I'm not looking for high compression, I had a high compression built 390, still on mild side. Would eat up starters, and wouldn't run on premium (93 octane) without some form of octane booster. It was a fun motor, shoved into a 69 Fairlane. with a built C6 and 3.70 gears.


The truck will be used for cruising and hauling wood, car parts, and occasionally pulling my Jeep or 56 Vic to Car Shows. Was planning to shoot for 10.X:1. CR

 

that is about perfect with a good timing curve and quench. Stock 68-71's had about 105:1 with c8ve, c9ve and D0VE heads.

I think a set of those heads will put you around 9.25:1 with dished pistons IIRC

 

 

Looking good
What kind of car is that

 

 

Haven't been in garage much lately, we hit a cold spell, and I was out of kerosene for my heaters. But made some time today, to dive further into my "rebuilt 460"... The more I dig into it, the more I feel like the shop who assembled the motor, probably wasn't well adept at engine-assembly from bare-bones from the machine shop... I'll definitely be replacing cam bearings, after I further inspect the remaining bearings (waiting on new bore scope to arrive this week) Still need to pull remaining mains and check all rod bearings, and plasti-gauge them all to check clearances. Also got back to working on my non-ford (though it uses Duraspark II ignition and a motorcraft 2100 carb!) last week, my 84 Jeep CJ7


Looks like assembly/break-in lube was not used...



I know this is not from my removal of the cam, interested to see what the others look like


My 84 CJ7, modifying a bumper from 93 Wrangler, removed old tube work, welding in winch plate, and will add new tube work...

 

man it really just looks like they slapped that thing together, makes my first high school rebuild look professional.

 

You got that right... I'm going to venture out on a limb, and assume they didn't check the gaps on the rings either... On a positive note, at least the block machining looks great, all mating surfaces are great looking, cylinders look great, crank journals look great. starting plastigauging the bearings last night, so far, so good.

 

On a separate subject... I finally got around to replacing the blown Dome Light circuit fuse... New door jamb switches were put last month, as old ones never worked. My pass. door works, and will turn on dome light, however the driver's door doesn't. I've got quite a ground gremlin running around the truck, as the right front parking lamp will intermittently decide to work, and at the same time the left rear marker light will do the same, they take turns on which one works at a given time... I need to pull out some wire and start making new grounds.

 

The light plugs always go bad on these trucks, check them out.

 

By "light plugs" do you mean the door jamb switch plugs?

 

No the plugs at the front and rear, signal, stop, running lights.