see if a slight twist on the bolt is needed to snug the housing down a tad more. easy though so you dont over torque. if that doesnt work then do as mentioned above.

I have used thread tape on the trans lines to clear up that sort of issue.

 

on the trans cooler line fittings, you might need the old ones from the radiator your taking out. there different than the fittings a new one comes with.

 

Thanks! I gave them a little more oomph yesterday with a flare-end wrench and it felt much kore "positive" I think I may have just been to hesitant when buckling everything back in. I’ll see today in the daylight what the situation is under there

 

I know you have been done for a while, but wanted to add what I found out about the crimped on connectors on the coolant lines.

I just put a new engine and cooling system in my '95 this week.
On the coolant throttle body heater cross over tube (over the radiator) and the metal pre formed heater hoses with the crimped on connections coming off of the water pump are an easy replacement as long as the metal tubes are still in good shape.

You can carefully slice through the aluminum crimp sleeve with a hack saw, being very careful to not nick the steel tube underneath, and remove the crimp sleeve. The old hose slides right off.
The steel metal tube is already set up with the flared end and you can just slide a normal hose and hose clamp onto it.
Super easy and it retains the OEM appearance.

Now if the steel metal tube is all corroded and of bad integrity, you will most likely need to figure out how to make the connection work using just a length of heater hose without the metal tubing.

 

 

The new engine is nice but gosh- it was unplanned.
Started off as an "in truck" oil pan and intake gasket repair. Oil pan gasket was pretty easy, but after breaking two intake bolts off, I ended up removing engine and sending heads to machine shop to remove broken bolts @ $40 ea.
Measure head warpage and thought I'd squeak by with about .003

Re-assemble-re-install- runs great but a drip.drip.drip from one of the heads.
Pull engine again. Instead of throwing another `$500 into a 200k mile engine, just replaced it because I didn't want to have to monkey around with it again in a year.
Saving the original engine for a future rebuild instead of turning in for a core. In ten years the OEM roller blocks may be hard to come by and at least I know the history on the one I have.

Really use caution when tearing certain areas of the engine apart. It may snowball on you!