Hi all,

I might not have my terminology perfect here, but my engine is cranking just fine when I try to start it, but the rest of the engine isn't engaging. There are no additional sounds or clicking, just the regular starting noise before when the engine usually engages and starts up. I tried getting it jumped, but no action at all. It rained the day I got it jumped ( a little bit) and had driven it 2 hours earlier. Wasn't enough rain for puddles or anything to hit the starter which is located behind front right tire. I've left it for 4 days, and now it's exactly the same. Also, the last time I drove it, it seemed as though the power was failing, like someone nodding off and catching themselves, 2 or 3 times after starting, but then was fine for the rest of the trip to it's current resting spot. The engine would idle real low, and all the dials would go weak until I revved it a bit and it would wake back up.

Here's the situation:

I have a starter bypass installed with a push-button switch in cab, I turn on electrics with key, and then hold in starter button to start. I've replaced the starter a few times (thanks to lifetime warranties!) but I did this about 6 months ago so that shouldn't be the problem (unless I already ate through this one).

Cap & Rotor are 2 years old, battery 1 year old, terminals are fine though I'm going to replace the negative.

I removed and bypassed the heater core 6 months ago and flushed the radiator. Gas tank is half full. Oil and Gas filters are 9 months old.

So might it be the starter and bypass switch are installed in a way that drain/kill the starters quickly? A starter issue is likely, but it seems ridiculous as this one only lasted 6 months and it hasn't been driven much.

Fuel pump relay? Something else?

Thanks for any ideas!

Tyler

 

Have you tried pulling the codes yet to see if there are any? Don't disconnect the battery till you check for any codes!

 

I don't have the device for code reading. I definitely unplugged the battery today to replace one of the terminals which needed it anyway- but that didn't help. Issue persists, but maybe computer has been fed with same codes? Does a 96 have that?

 

Do you know where my OBDII port is located or is it an OBDI situation? I can't find this info.

 

Hopefully someone else will chime in here that has a 96 or knows more then I do about a 96.. My van is a 1988 with a OBDl system. It is my understanding that 1996 should be OBDll system. I have read that some 96 models have a mix sorta speak as it was a transition year... OBDll will have the data connector under the dash near the center while OBDl data connector is under the hood.

On the OBDl system, if you disconnect the battery you loose the codes stored in memory from when the van was running. I believe it is the same for OBDll systems.

I do not know of any parts stores that have a loaner code reader. Walmart has some cheap code readers but I don't know if the cheap readers will give you live data once you get it running.

Do you hear the fuel pump cut on for a few seconds then off when you first turn the ignition switch on?
You should have a schrader valve somewhere around the fuel rail on the engine to test for fuel pressure. If you have no gauge you can cover the schrader valve with a thin rag and depress the valve to at least see if you have any fuel pressure at all.
I have used a $2 tire pressure gauge from AZ once or twice in the past to get an approximate reading.


Hopefully is is as simple as a bad fuel filter if the problem is no fuel.

You do hear clicking when you turn the switch to the run position?


OBDl connector



OBDll connector

 

Posting the engine size can help, you should have the 5.0 or the 5.8 in this, if not the 4.9.

'96 was the last year for OBD1, change was in '97+

You will need an OBD1 code reader for any stored codes. Not the cheap $30 code readers that only read OBD II. Disconnecting the battery for more than 20 minutes will erase any stored codes. So, toss that out for finding the problem.

Basics - you need spark/fuel/compression for any engine to run. Period.

You need to start with the basics. Check fuel pressure, and what you wrote, it kind of sounds like you have a fuel problem, like with the in tank pump.

Next, check for spark, if you have spark, it should run.

Another problem that this era engine had, was the MAP sensor, if the vacuum line to the MAP is cracked/split and the MAP is not getting vacuum pressures, the ECU will shut down the fuel pump, thus your not getting any fuel to the engine for run.

Again, check the basics, and here is a Link for checking the senors and trouble shooting this era engine.
Read the "No Start" fully, and you'll get an understanding on what direction to go to.

If your replacing the starter every 6 months, I'm wondering if your getting them from Advance?? If so, you need a new suppler.

The way you have it wired for starter engagement, might be a problem with the starter switch mounted on the bottom of the steering column. If the key switch is not "sliding" the switch into the run position, you'll never get this started and running. It sounds like you or someone else by-passed the ignition starter switch at one time and went to the button for starting???
Might be worth it to replace this $15 switch?

 

The change to OBDII was begun in 96. My 96 is OBDII. The port is under the dash, below the steering wheel. Open the door in a quiet area and turn the key on without starting it. You should hear the fuel pump run a second or two when you do. If you can't hear it at all, the fuel pump probably took a dump. Have you changed the fuel filter ? (under the drivers side on the frame rail) If the pump is running, try starting it while holding the gas pedal all the way down. If it's flooded, this sometimes will correct a too rich condition and allow it to fire the plugs.

 

The CRASH SWITCH SHUTS OFF THE FUEL PUMP after a bump, and has a reset; suspect either at drivers knee, in line with brake pedal, OR in sidewall at passenger floorboard. Your battery/ starter problem may take a while. I had similar that took a few years to find the under dash wiring harness weight would move harness on a hard turn and short a large terminal on the back of the ammeter w/ loose nut, and probably loose nut teen at wheel... plagued my Dad for years before it became MY Problem. Finally smoked the harness under dash,, and problem became evident w/ melted wires.