I'm going to be replacing the pushrod I bent today. Would like to clear up somethings as searching seems a little mixed.

Is it important to line up the damper to 11 o clock before installing the new rod? I have read that people do that and others said they just put the new one in and it was fine. I did read it has something to do with oil draining is why you want to do it. My truck has been sitting for about 3-4 weeks now not running. I was going to just loosen the rocker and then slide the new rod in, and then tighten and torque the rocker back on top of it and call it good. Should I not do that?

Also, what is the actual torque on the rocker? I've read some pretty crazy things. 20 Ft lbs, 120 ft lbs, 120 inch pounds. Want to make sure I don't leave it too loose. Planning on doing it in a few hours if I get the turbo all back in.

 

I just dropped all of mine in without any rotation of the motor. Maybe you should wait until someone with more experience to come along.

 

My dad has a manual that has the procedure in it, and it says nothing about doing it. And people I know personally who are proficient on these trucks say to just drop it in and make sure to torque it and that's it. But I figured I'd ask just in case. The place I read it on was an old forum from here I found googling it, but a lot of people commented on it that they just dropped a new one in and had no problems.

 

This is how I do mine.


The only way to do this and keep your sanity...

Pull all glow plugs..
Pick the cylinder you want to start on.
Insert coat hanger into cylinder.
Turn engine over by HAND until the piston is at TDC.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the rocker in place, remove rocker.
Remove/replace push rod.
Replace rocker arm.
Torque bolts to 20ft pound.
Move the the next cylinder.

 

I replaced a rocker, torqued to 20, cranked it with starter a few times and rechecked torque. Thats how i've always done torqued rockers. Not sure its the correct way but i've never contacted a piston with a valve stripped rocker threads or damaged a lifter. The only time i worry about TDC is when I replace valve springs with the cylinder heads on, or pull the mechanical fuel pump.

 

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/96fman/stjmain.htm

 

We went with the manual with the way to do it. So we turned the crank and positioned it at the lowest point, put it in, and then torqued the rocker. Checked the torque on all the other rockers and they were all under torqued. So I torqued them all to 20 Ft lbs.

 

With the engine clocked properly , the oil can leak from the lifters keeping the new install from bending the new ones . Its in the (proper ) manual

Its possible to get lucky

CAUTION: Failure to follow the next step of this procedure could result in bent valves, causing severe engine damage.

Rotate the engine until the mark on the crankshaft damper is at 11 o'clock to prevent valve damage when installing the intake rocker arm and exhaust rocker arm.

Install push rods.

Install the intake rocker arm or exhaust rocker arm.

Install the two rocker arm bolts. Tighten rocker arm bolts evenly to 27 Nm (20 lb-ft).

Install the valve cover gasket.

Connect the engine harness electrical connectors to the valve cover gasket.

Connect the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors and glow plugs.

Install the valve cover and bolts. Tighten bolts to 11 Nm (97 lb-ft).

Connect the vacuum pump hose to the vacuum pump.

Install the intake duct bracket and the two retaining nuts.

Install the crankcase breather assembly and the two retaining screws.

Install the intake duct tube assembly, the two retaining bolts and the clamps at the turbocharger and air cleaner. Connect battery ground cable.


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