2017 F350 DRW crew cab
Trailer hitch pin bent today. Anyone know the correct replacement size? ( Length)

 

BOLT® Locking hit pin 5/8" dia fits 3" receiver hitches, side cut key for Ford. Once you set your ignition key to it then you will always have the key for the lock.

 

Thanks for that. Just ordered one to replace my current. The fewer keys I have to keep up with the better.

 

They make padlocks, tool box replacement locks etc to fit your key.

 

That will work with the key that pops out of the key fob?

 

That's good to know. Now if Ford would have made the cleat locks work with the ford key, I would be all set.

 

How did that happen? Was this the original bent pin?

 

Yes it will use that key. Read the direction twice because you only have one time the set it. They have been having pins getting bent using the reducers. It might take out the slack in the receiver but when you have a heavy load with a 2" hitch with reducers from 3" your only pulling in the middle of that pin causing it to bend

 

Yikes!

How heavy is too heavy? (I have a F450 on order that will have a 3" receiver. I pull 2 different 12,000# trailer (1 dead weight, 1 weight distribution, with 2" hitches.) I'd rather not buy new hitches!

Any pins that can handle the job without bending?

 

First Dually, I can't find anything in the owners manual or the towing guide to back this but but the max towing capacity is only when using a 3" shank ball mount. When a reducer is used the capacity is also reduced. I thought I read it somewhere but I can't find it now. Maybe it was just something someone posted. Maybe it will be printed on the truck's hitch.

I chose to buy a WDH with a 3" shank as well as a regular non-WDH ball mount with a 3" shank. Now I don't have to worry about carrying around the reducers.

 

This seems logical. The previous poster should also be sure his 2" ball mounts and *****(did I really say that?) are rated for 12k.....

 

I seen them use those pins from farm supply with the handle but they don't lock. I would think it's more from jamming brakes putting a shock on it on hard stops than pulling as you ease into a pull.

 

If I recall somebody posted something on this very forum about those reducer bushing and the rating. I believe the reducers turn you class 5 hitch into a class 3 hitch.

I used to carry 5 separate ball setups, I was more than happy to replace all those with a single adjustable.

 

If I had 2" hitches that I do not want to replace because I now have a 3" receiver I would do the following. I would find a 3" sleeve to fit over the 2" hitch. Get it fitted and hole lined up and test fitted on truck. I would not tack weld it because I don't want to ruin any temper with heat. I would fill the walls of the hitch to sleeve with J-B Weld and assemble it let it dry. It will not slip and would work the pin just as a 3" hitch. You would still only have only the capacity of the original 2" shank. No more bent pins or sleeves to deal with.

 

JB weld huh?