2000 f250 front suspension rebuild?
#1
2000 f250 front suspension rebuild?
Hello everybody I'm new to forum here, I just bought a 2000 f250 4x4. Anyway I bought the truck cheap knowing it would need some work to it so yesterday I took to have some newer tires swapped on it from my other truck, well I told them to align it when they got the tires put on the truck and come to be they call me telling me that the front end is pretty much shot and cannot align, so anyway theyquoted me almost 3k to rebuild the front end in it, (pretty much what I paid for it) so my question is to you people that have done your own front end rebuilds (ball joints, pitman arm, possibly gearbox, tierods inner and outer, sway stabilizers) on a scale 1-10 how bad of a job would this be to do myself, or should I bite the bullet and have someone do it for me. I have a basic set of mechanic skills but have never done a front end before, Is this something I can buy the parts and put in myself and have a mechanic adjust it when I have it aligned? I've been looking up the videos on youtube of the repair but just thought what everyones 2 cents were on here before I make a decision. Thank You!
#2
I think it's going to depend on where you are and how much salt that axle has seen. I just went through the same thing on my 2001. Replaced all the steering bits with new parts from Rock Auto, which is actually a pretty simple affair with a 5 lb mallet and a pickle fork.
I did ball joints bearings seals and brakes on my axle, and it was a total nightmare of air tools, torches, 50 ton presses and a lot of swearing. Took me a day just to chip-out the seized locking hubs in little bits. I'd think that if I had a really rotten axle to deal with again, I'd just get a better looking used one shipped up from the south. it would have been cheaper and faster, but that's my take on it.
I would suggest that when you get the knuckles off, you take them to a shop to have the ball joints replaced. At $75/knuckle, it's not worth the time and cost to buy and mess with those tools yourself.
do the steering box last. it's expensive and you may be just fine doing the rest. costs you nothing to try.
I did ball joints bearings seals and brakes on my axle, and it was a total nightmare of air tools, torches, 50 ton presses and a lot of swearing. Took me a day just to chip-out the seized locking hubs in little bits. I'd think that if I had a really rotten axle to deal with again, I'd just get a better looking used one shipped up from the south. it would have been cheaper and faster, but that's my take on it.
I would suggest that when you get the knuckles off, you take them to a shop to have the ball joints replaced. At $75/knuckle, it's not worth the time and cost to buy and mess with those tools yourself.
do the steering box last. it's expensive and you may be just fine doing the rest. costs you nothing to try.
#3
I'd rate it as a 4-5. It's not a 5 min job but easily done by someone with mechanical skills and tools. I borrowed the ball joint tools from Advance Auto and bought the tool for the shaft seal.
Caster/camber bushings stayed in the knuckles and didn't move so the only adjustment was tow in. I did that with a tape measure on the shop floor. After some trial and error, 1/32" tow in works best for me.
Caster/camber bushings stayed in the knuckles and didn't move so the only adjustment was tow in. I did that with a tape measure on the shop floor. After some trial and error, 1/32" tow in works best for me.
#4
#5
I agree with Josh, if your going to have the truck for a while you should do it yourself so you will know the components and know its done right. I did my 2000 SD at about 125,000 using hand tools and a loaner 4WD ball joint press. When things get tough, a little patience, gentle heat, penetrating oil and a good breaker bar work wonders. I went with Warn manual hubs and U.S. produced bearing assemblies and parts for a total of around $1200. Don't forget there are You Tube videos.
#6
It's not hard at all.... BUT you do need the right tools. Some you can borrow, some you need to buy.
I just did mine on a 2001.
I did buy some of the tools needed. Some I probably could have done without.
I bought;
The seal tool to install the front seals correctly. This is probably the only tool that cost the most if you look at it on a cost-versus-usage I get out of it basis. It's specific to this model truck (up to 2005 I think). But , you can probably ebay it off for about the same money. (70 bucks new)
Then I also bought a 20 ton shop press from harbor freight. It was about 140 bucks. I already got a ton of usage out of it. It works excellent.
I did rent the balljoint tool at first but it is a lot easier with the shop press. Overall I probably spent 500 on parts and tools. I think a shop would have charged me 1500.
I wasn't in a hurry and took my time. I did : ball joints, seals, discs, track bar bushings, swaybar bushings, brake slide pins, differential service, hubs-clean/lube, brake fluid flush.
Did not have to do tie rods or steering box. Overall looking back at it it was quite easy to do. Tools is half the job.
Truck drives and feels like new again. 4WD works as it should. I also did a bunch of stuff on the rear end since I had a broken spring. This really initiated a bunch more work (figured might as well while I am at it) like brake flushes, parking brake adjust, rear differential service, transfer-case service.... probably forgot a few. But all well worth it for longevity
I just did mine on a 2001.
I did buy some of the tools needed. Some I probably could have done without.
I bought;
The seal tool to install the front seals correctly. This is probably the only tool that cost the most if you look at it on a cost-versus-usage I get out of it basis. It's specific to this model truck (up to 2005 I think). But , you can probably ebay it off for about the same money. (70 bucks new)
Then I also bought a 20 ton shop press from harbor freight. It was about 140 bucks. I already got a ton of usage out of it. It works excellent.
I did rent the balljoint tool at first but it is a lot easier with the shop press. Overall I probably spent 500 on parts and tools. I think a shop would have charged me 1500.
I wasn't in a hurry and took my time. I did : ball joints, seals, discs, track bar bushings, swaybar bushings, brake slide pins, differential service, hubs-clean/lube, brake fluid flush.
Did not have to do tie rods or steering box. Overall looking back at it it was quite easy to do. Tools is half the job.
Truck drives and feels like new again. 4WD works as it should. I also did a bunch of stuff on the rear end since I had a broken spring. This really initiated a bunch more work (figured might as well while I am at it) like brake flushes, parking brake adjust, rear differential service, transfer-case service.... probably forgot a few. But all well worth it for longevity
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