I'm ready to replace both valve cover gaskets and wiring harnesses on my 02 F250 w/ 7.3L. Any particular brand I should buy or avoid in this list?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...r+gasket,10710

Also, I can't budget injectors right now but are there any other low cost parts I'd want to replace while I am doing this job?

 

 

Just an FYI, I have been using the Dorman UVCH for the last 3yrs with no issues.

 

I did glow plugs while I was under there, but mine tested bad. I went with motorcraft parts for the gaskets and the UVCH. They're a little more than Dorman, but I'll pay for the peace of mind. As picky as these engines can be with electronics, might as well stay OEM.

 

While you are in there retorque the injector hold down bolts (120 INCH#) Use an INCH pound torque wrench, not a foot# doing the math to inch pounds because you are outside the accurate range of the wrench that low. You will need a 8mm socket. First use a FOOT pound torque wrench on the rocker arms (20 FT#, 8mm socket) then you can verify the inch pound torque wrench for the injectors on the rocker arm bolts and get a feel for where the wrench clicks at 120 INCH#. But you actually start out at 50 INCH# on the injector bolts. If they are not torqued to at least 50 INCH# you need to replace the injector orings. Once you have them all torqued to 120 INCH# you have the option of carefully bumping them up to 130 INCH# this will make the engine run quieter. Once you are torqued to whichever option you pick, reconnect the batteries, 42 pin and absolute bare minimum to start the truck, you won't need intercooler piping or valve covers. Start the truck and let it idle for 30-45 min to bring the oil and coolant up to operating temp, then shut it down and dive in as fast as you can to retorque the injectors while everything is hot. This is referred to as a hot torque.

For the glow plugs you will need a deep well 10mm thin wall socket 14 FOOT#

Valve covers, 13mm wobble socket 98 INCH#

 

Many thanks. Will order that 13mm wobble first since I don't have it.

 

not required, but makes it oh so much easier than just a ujoint type extension

 

This is all very good advice.

For the glow plugs, I would also add that you can break them loose with a socket, but you should never remove them completely with one. It will tweak the angle on the plug enough to bend the tip, making the plug very difficult to remove and possibly even breaking it off inside the cylinder. A thin-walled socket may or may not work. I would not chance it and instead back them all the way out with a piece of rubber hose. I replaced the vacuum lines to the front hubs at the same time on my truck, and the hose I got from Napa for that worked perfectly to remove and install the glow plugs.

 

Thanks, RiffRaff had the cheapest prices on the wiring harness. Also bought the valve gaskets from them.

Picked up a set of 8 Motorcraft glow plugs too.

Looked at some Motorcraft reman injectors on riffraff but will hold off a bit on that, need to pay down more debt before I spend 1-2k on that project. Question though, when I do my injectors do most people also do the cups? Seems that will involve pulling heads, then we get into a lot more $$$.

 

Good call on the hose. I believe it's 1/4" hose that i used. Only need like 4" of hose

 

No need to pull the heads to do cups. Also no need to do cups if they aren't leaking. If you're worried about them, once you pull the injectors clean out the cups really good and get them nice and dry. Then pressurize the cooling system and watch it for a while. If any of your cups get coolant in them, replace it. Some will say it's ok to do just the leaky ones, I am of the mindset that if 1 is bad, they should all be fixed. It doesn't take long to do, and it isn't that expensive. Lots of good posts here on how to do the cups, just make sure to let the loctite cure for 24 hours before putting coolant in it.