My 63 F-100 has had disk brakes at the front added, all new brake lines, master cylinder and proportioning valve, very nice. As of yesterday the truck is now mine and with all these brake upgrades I wonder why the final step was not taken to add power brake. So here's my question, can I just add the power booster between the new master cylinder and the brake pedal? Probably need a different rod length?

 

A '63 may be different from what I have, but you should be able to. Very well may have a hard time finding the correct brackets to mount the booster to the firewall though. You will certainly need to figure out push rod length between the two(critical) and another to go to the pedal (I had to shorten the one I got).
My booster failed last year and I chose to go with a booster / master cylinder assembly so that at least the critical pushrod length should be correct. Works better than ever!

 

It's not that expensive to just buy them already together. Maybe one of the smaller diameter dual diaphragm units. I've made brackets and used them on builds. Look in Speedway. It might be a lot less messing around than trying to make yours work with a booster.

 

I've picked up a conversion kit from MBM brakes to install on my 64. I spec'd a 7 inch power booster as I have clearance issues with the valve covers on my Cleveland. The standard 8 inch booster should work fine with stock motors. I'm planning to try and document the install in the next couple of weeks. I also have a disk brake conversion kit for the rear 9 inch axle that I'll be installing at the same time. I already have front disks. I ordered the rear conversion kit for 9 inch cars, not trucks. The trucks kit uses a 5 on 5.5 wheel bolt pattern while my truck has the 5 on 4.5 wheel bolt pattern. The car kit has a dual pattern 4.5 & 4.75. I added a couple of long bed truck length parking brake cables to the kit, so it should work fine.




If I like the kits, I'll add them to my catalog. I'm already an approved dealer for MBM, but I prefer to try out a product before promoting it.

Mike

 

I would not recomend adding a booster to a standard MC. Piston diameter in a boosted MC is larger and the pedal linkage is not compatible (angel/pivot).
Buy a booster and MC together. Lower the mount/pivot point on the brake pedal arm. Failure to do this will get you touchy brakes because the pedal sits to high. Power brake pedals are much closer to the floor. The entire system needs to match i.e. booster/mc/prop valve and pedal arm to push rod angle. This is not complicated and can all be accomplished using a kit or junk yard parts. Also consider other issues like stop light positioning, mechanical or hydraulic.

 

So I just bought this kit from eBay. Looks good but zero instructions. Anyone used one of these kits?

 

I found some manufacturing instruction, fairly good.
http://mbmbrakes.com/content/General...structions.pdf

 

Here is a pic of the Master and proportioning valve. Notice the use of Teflon tape..... a no no.

 

The bracket you bought off ebay is the Ford bracket I always use. Glad to see you can get them new. The instructions from MPB are excellent but the firewall bracket they use is a two piece deal that can be a real PITA to line up. The Ford bracket you have is the best. Use the metal gasket as a pattern to drill the holes in the firewall (if needed). I use the wide brake pedal from any junkyard 70's era Ford with automatic. I only use automatic transmissions now days. I also pull the pedal bracket and steering column so I have room to work. I also sort out the stop light switch with all this on the bench. The setup you found on ebay looks like a quality piece. MOFWIW.

 

That's great to know. The brake pedal I have at the moment sits very high, so much so that you have to lift your leg up to put your foot on the peddle. The truck was originally a manual converted to C6 auto and drums converted to front disks.

 

Always like to do a mockup to better understand what I have. Looks like I have 3 lever options and based on what's there now it looks like the chrome adjustable is the one to use.

 

Existing pedal and rod.

 

Measuring the distance from the front port location as is moves from 6" to 16". Looking lower it looks like there is enough play in the coiled brake lines to not have to replace them Yay.