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7.3 with banks turbo what else can I do

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7.3 with banks turbo what else can I do

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  #1  
Old 01-18-2018, 11:29 AM
parker_shelton
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7.3 with banks turbo what else can I do

Yesterday I bought a 93 f-250 extended cab 4x4 with the 7.3. it was used as a plow truck so it's got a decent amount of rust but it only has 117,000 miles. Not sure if it came from the factory with the banks sidewinder kit but it's on there along with badging on the side of the truck. My 78 bronco's motor blew a couple weeks ago and I bought the new truck to swap the power train and axles into the bronco but I wanna know what I can do to get some more ponies out of this thing before I get into the swap.
 
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Old 01-18-2018, 12:19 PM
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You might consider aftermarket IP or injectors. Here are two well rated suppliers. I've never done any business with them myself though:


R&D IDI Performance - Home


fuel injection injection pump injection pump rebuilding injection pump repair, Conestoga Diesel Injection Fuel Injection and Turbocharger Rebuilding. The Moose Pump people! Willow Street, PA Home


You have a pyrometer and head studs, right? If not, those are must haves for IDI performance.
 
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:21 AM
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Justin at R&D can get you all kinds of power but it anit cheap. The factory turbo were 94 and they were ATS. Banks gives you badging in the kit. Or you Po did like I did and bought some turbo badges. Vefore you go spending a bunch of money. Do some pull testing. IDI are not speed demons they are workhorses. Put 5 to 7 k behind it drag it up the steepest hill you can find
 
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Old 01-19-2018, 07:07 AM
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Theres a chance your pump hasnt been turned up enough, or at all. There are threads on adjusting the wastegate and turning up the fuel. 1200* exhaust gas temp is the safe limit, and 15 pounds of boost without studs. I would absolutely recommend studs if youre going to have the engine out. Piece of mind, and much higher threshold for power and improvements. A 90cc with that banks would make a pretty solid combo, especially with an intercooler. Being a swb vehicle, it may not be so bad, but if you wheel in your bronco on soft ground, prepare to be in 4x4 all the time, the extra weight up front is like dragging a boat anchor in the mud.
 
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Old 01-19-2018, 07:29 AM
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I think Justin has an IDI Bronco. If I remember right that what fid the 400hp at rearwheels on the dyno
 
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:19 PM
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I figured the first thing I'd buy from r&d would be the camshaft since it's designed for a truck with a turbo instead of just having the stock one meant for natural aspiration. Going to pick it up now I'm used to driving around my dad's idi without a turbo and can't wait to get it on the highway and see what difference the turbo will make
 
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Old 01-20-2018, 03:52 AM
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I forgot to mention, you will have to watch your front diff to oil filter clearance, shouldnt be as bad with the 44 as it was with my d60, the starter will be a real PITA too. If you plan to use a ZF, the floor pan is a bit low for it.
 
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Old 01-20-2018, 06:39 AM
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Well after driving it home I got to my home and switched it to the rear tank. The fuel lines were rusty but I didn't see any leaks when I went to look at it. The truck shut off about 5 seconds after hitting the switch and it started dumping fuel on the ground. So I need to find a part number for the lines. The front tank was also leaking a bit from the seam but I've had this problem before and all I had to do was jb weld the leak when the fuel level was below the leak. Besides that the banks gauges are not working. The light in them works but that's it so any advice with that would be appreciated
 
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Old 01-20-2018, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by parker_shelton View Post
I figured the first thing I'd buy from r&d would be the camshaft since it's designed for a truck with a turbo instead of just having the stock one meant for natural aspiration. Going to pick it up now I'm used to driving around my dad's idi without a turbo and can't wait to get it on the highway and see what difference the turbo will make
Honestly, a cam is something that should only be done when you rebuild/completely disassemble the motor on the IDI. The clearances are /so/ tight that you may well run into issues. All it takes is being .010" out of spec on the valve recession and you'll get piston hitting valves... with a STOCK cam. Let alone a cam with even more lift etc.
It's not that it's impossible... just that you'd better pull the heads and clay them when installing the new cam to make sure you have the clearances to run it.

The stock cam in an IDI isn't bad, overall. It'll easily let you push more power than a stock IP will deliver fuel for without problems.

Upgrades from my perspective would be:
1. Turbo(from a N/A motor)
2. IP(90-110ccs for a 'stock-ish' setup, or skip to #3 for a bigger pump)
3. Headstuds, if you are going to be using a 110cc or bigger*, or a bigger than stock turbo(on a 7.3; 6.9 needs them before even maxing out a stock turbo).

At this point, you can make between 200 and 250 RWHP(approximately; this is around 260-320 crank HP).

4. Bigger turbo
5. Really big IP; rd2-150 or 180. Obviously running something like this requires studs

You can probably plan on being able to do this and push 350 to the wheels without too much issue(400+ at the crank).

6. Modified PSD connecting rods; re-balance etc. Add a cam too, this is where you'd be doing all your internal mods like piston shaving etc.

At this point, you could probably be putting down 450(my guess? 600 at the crank)... Nobody's gone beyond this as far as I know, except that Hypermax P-pumped IDI pushing 1,000 way back in the day.


(*Note: I would definitely suggest adding studs if you go with a RD2-110, though I have gotten away with it on my '93 for a year. And I push it.)
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:54 PM
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Is there really much of a different between 10 and 15 psi on a Banks turbo? Mine was pushing 9.5-10 before I started fiddling with the timing, and now it's running a solid 8psi. Zero increase in the "seat of the pants" feeling, but it definitely has more power to pull hills with a 5K load.

I'm waiting on a timing adapter to show up before doing anything else, and I want to make sure the timing is set correctly before adjusting the wastegate to toss a few more PSI in there. For me, it's not even about extra power now, as much as getting more air in and EGTs down.
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:59 PM
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You may have to tweek fuel a little. Fairly easy. There are some good threads on it. Basicly get # 1 tdc . On the passanger side of the pump is a little cover under the cover is a set screw. You use a 5/32 allen wrench to adjust it. In the banks manual it says turn fuel up 2 flats
 
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Old 01-29-2018, 11:30 PM
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I agree with macrobb on this. Cam is in my opinion is silly. I would start with general maintenance, then worry about something as indepth as a cam later on once you make sure everything else is up to par.
I would add a pyrometer and boost gauge and monitor things first.
 
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Old 01-30-2018, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by hturner12 View Post
You may have to tweek fuel a little. Fairly easy. There are some good threads on it. Basicly get # 1 tdc . On the passanger side of the pump is a little cover under the cover is a set screw. You use a 5/32 allen wrench to adjust it. In the banks manual it says turn fuel up 2 flats
And that's minimum, really. More flats = more fuel = more power, assuming you can burn it all. And I've had good luck with that; on all mine, I've been able to clean up a maxed out pump(screw cranked in as far as possible, though it's probably no better than 3-4 flats) once above about 2300 rpm. Lower, well, you don't floor it. Or get a Smoke Puff Limiter if it bothers you.

Watch the EGTs though.
 
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Old 02-08-2018, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Macrobb View Post
And that's minimum, really. More flats = more fuel = more power, assuming you can burn it all. And I've had good luck with that; on all mine, I've been able to clean up a maxed out pump(screw cranked in as far as possible, though it's probably no better than 3-4 flats) once above about 2300 rpm. Lower, well, you don't floor it. Or get a Smoke Puff Limiter if it bothers you.

Watch the EGTs though.
Sorry fellas I've been on my other thread, I had a trans code pop up. I really want to get as much as I can get out of the stock block for right now. Wasn't sure if they had upgraded turbo wheels or anything. I do have the early banks kit with the big airbox I'm pretty sure it's nonwastegate but not positive so I don't know what can be done with it. My pipes are small though now I don't think they're even 2 1/2 inch diameter. I'm assuming getting a 4" pipe would be a good move but what diameter do I tie it into the turbo with.
 
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Old 02-08-2018, 05:35 AM
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Also, I have a egt oil temp and manifold pressure gauge and none are working. I tracked down the temp gauge wire and that's hooked up so I'm thinking the sensor or whatever it's hooked to is dead. The wire for the manifold pressure is just cut I have know idea where that would go or what to look for. The oil temp wire goes into a wire housing and also appears to be cut and I don't know where it went or what to look for on that. Any advice appreciated
 
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