Well after both of us being sick. My husband finally got around to putting the valve cover gasket, Glow plugs, and new ford CPS in the truck.........Started and ran for about half a hour after clearing the codes. It shut off and now wont do anything. The scanner is showing absolutely nothing. Now the assumption is the main computer has crapped out. Hubby is ready to blow the truck up at this point.

 

Absolutely nothing? No dash lights?
No dome light?

 

He said turning over with no fire. He said no engine light on when key on. But the overdrive off light is on.

 

Does the WTS (Wait To Start) light come on for a few seconds after turning the key to on but before trying to start the truck?

 

Check fuse #30, if it is blown disconnect the fuel bowl heater. I'm out of my league when it comes to the Transmission other than being able to scan it with my computer.

 

If it's not the IPR I will eat my hat. Every symptom you have I had on mine. IPR was the culprit. Part# CM 5013

 

There is no fuse number 30 on the truck. ends at 29. and no the wait to start light does not come on

 

Your fuse box should look like this, does it not?

 

Do you know where the IPR is on back of the HPOP?

 

Okay i looked at the one under the hood. I just checked the one under the dash. yes the #30 30 amp fuse was blown. So I told my husband to bring a fuse home so we will see tonight.

 

Fuse #30 is a very critical piece of the puzzle for your truck to run. Without that fuse, it will not run.

I don't remember if you/he have done this, but you may want to disconnect the fuel bowl heater before installing a new fuse in slot 30. The fuel bowl heater can short out and blow that fuse which in turn will leave your truck dead.

You can update the fuel bowl heater for a few bucks if you see fit, but if that is causing your problems you can leave it unplugged for the time being until you can get to it. As the name indicates, the plug to remove is on the firewall side of the fuel bowl toward the bottom of the bowl itself. Very easy to find and disconnect.

Keep us posted.

 

If the fuel bowl heater has shorted out, make sure you unplug the connection on the back of the fuel bowl (as Walleye Hunter indicated) or it will blow the new fuse when you turn the key on - this may lead to tremendous anger (ask me how I know).

Sorry - looks like Sous already replied to this topic.....

 

Like he said above unplug the fuel bowl heater plug. Bottom left of the bowl in this pic. this is the back of the bowl as it sits in the truck

 

I have had my 'fuel bowl heater' connection unplugged for over 8 years and have no plans to reconnect.
the heating element does heat the fuel when it is very cold. not needed often at all. The connection also is attached to the 'Water in Fuel Sensor'.


Have you 'overhauled' your fuel bowl? if not.... this may be next on your list of 'tune ups'. The url shows your everything that you need to know. It also shows you the heating element and how to remove it. If you want to have the 'Water in Fuel Sensor' working..... just unplug the heating element spade connectors and leave element assembly in the bowl where it is at. You can get all of the orings from Guzzle.


there will/may be a lot of 'Crud' in the bottom of the fuel bowl when you clean it... this is more or less normal


Welcome to guzzle's Powerstroke Fuel Bowl Rebuild Web Page
https://www.dieselorings.com/docs/FuelBowlRebuild.pdf


DieselOrings

 

Looks like the fuse was the culprit. The fuel bowl heater will stay unplugged as well. You guys have been very helpful. Thanks for all the everything. The truck is back up and running. Although we may end up selling it in the near future.