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Trans oil cooler lines rusted on 2006 6.0 torqueshift

  #1  
Old 01-17-2018, 10:41 AM
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Trans oil cooler lines rusted on 2006 6.0 torqueshift

I have the transmission cooler lines ordered from the trans to the remote filter housing. After pouring through lots of threads here, some say the job isn't too tough, others say you have to lift the engine or transmission to get the new lines in. I'm handy but will be working in an unheated garage up on ramps with a decent set of tools. For those that have done the job just how bad was it snaking the new lines to the filter? I understand I'll need the tool to remove the quick disconnects off the filter assy. Where did you get yours, and how much transmission fluid can I expect to lose?
Thanks in advance...
Mike
 
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:18 PM
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bumpity bump. Anyone?
 
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:34 PM
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on my 04 it didnt have the quick disconnects but heard the newer ones did... just needed line wrenches, and a pair of pliers.. and yes you will need to lift the engine up some on the passenger side.. the oil pan sits 1/8" off the lines where it crosses over the cross member..

if you do have the quick fittings you can find them at harbor freight or at any of the AP stores.. theyre really not that expensive..
 
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Old 01-19-2018, 07:08 PM
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My '06 had the same problem with rusted lines. Replaced all of them, including the filter, from the radiator to the transmission.

Getting the quick disconnects disconnected was the difficult part. Everything else threads in there with some effort. Replacing all the lines might be easier than just the lines from the filter to the transmission.

Alternately, just cut the rotted steel lines, leaving some stub tubes and install rubber hoses/hose clamps in their place.
 
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Old 01-20-2018, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Lou Braun View Post
My '06 had the same problem with rusted lines. Replaced all of them, including the filter, from the radiator to the transmission.

Getting the quick disconnects disconnected was the difficult part. Everything else threads in there with some effort. Replacing all the lines might be easier than just the lines from the filter to the transmission.

Alternately, just cut the rotted steel lines, leaving some stub tubes and install rubber hoses/hose clamps in their place.
reminds me of a friend of mine that had the quick disconnects for his fuel lines... he didnt feel like buying the tool.. instead went out got some steel fuel line, and extra flair fittings... cut the disconnects off slipped the fittings on and flaired the ends of the tubes...was just a matter of threading the lines together after that...

tbh i hate the quick fittings too... they always give me fits..
 
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Old 01-20-2018, 01:55 PM
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If you are replacing the lines from the transmission up to the filter you will need to lift the engine or cut the lines. I had to replace mine because it rubbed through on the downpipe and messed with it for a few hours before I cut the lines and then it went in easily.
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 09:17 AM
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I'm not going to cut the new lines. The old ones I don't care about. It's freakin' 19 degrees outside so unless the line(s) spring a leak this repair will wait until I can lay on the driveway without freezing my *** off. When you guys state the passenger side of the engine has to be raised to get the lines in, did you unbolt the motor mount? Where did you position the jack to lift it up a tad? It's not going to be the oil pan fosho...*s
Mike
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rattleNsmoke View Post
I'm not going to cut the new lines. The old ones I don't care about. It's freakin' 19 degrees outside so unless the line(s) spring a leak this repair will wait until I can lay on the driveway without freezing my *** off. When you guys state the passenger side of the engine has to be raised to get the lines in, did you unbolt the motor mount? Where did you position the jack to lift it up a tad? It's not going to be the oil pan fosho...*s
Mike
i think they were referring to cutting the old lines to get them out easier...

yes you would need to unbolt the motor mount to raise it.. i wouldnt advise jacking it directly on the pan or the outer lips. this engine is very heavy and the pans not really supported by the block either. theres an aluminum (could be steel but looked like aluminum when i had it off) splash plate the pan bolts for the large capacity pan. technically the 6.0's have a 3 "oil pan" seals if you count the bed plate.. Bedplate, the Aluminum splash/baffle which bolts to the bottom of the bedplate, and then the oil pan itself.. the sandwitched plate extends 1-3" (depending where you measure) outside of the block which is where the lower pan bolts to the outer edge of.

I would advise finding a bolt to fit the empty hole thats in the front of the head then picking up on it with an engine hoist or finding a way to lift that side with the exhaust manifold. When i lifted mine i had it a bit easier as i had the top half of the engine off and just used one of the old TTY head bolts through a chain.
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 10:29 AM
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Gotcha. Thanks for the reply. Next house is gonna have a barn and a heavy-duty lift...*s
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by rattleNsmoke View Post
Gotcha. Thanks for the reply. Next house is gonna have a barn and a heavy-duty lift...*s
lol ive been saying the same with the new house in NC.. i want to build a nice big garage to house all the vehicles and put a lift in one bay so i dont have to keep crawling around on the ground...
 
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