If you've only had the van since 777,777 (almost perfect number... just needs one more 7), then I seriously doubt the 110 amp alternator that is in there now is the original 110 amp alternator that your earlier post implies lasted 800,000 miles. I'm willing to bet that the current alternator you are running is a rebuilt unit, not the original. The shuttle bus company likely replaced that alternator several times over 760K.


However, it would be very interesting, if not absolutely record breaking, to find a 110 amp alternator lasting for 800,000 miles. I have rebuilt a couple of 110 amp alternators, and could probably distinguish an original 110a from a rebuild by sight, with sufficient photographs.

 

Scott don't forget that coolfeet has the E-350 van, not a pickup, so the geese and gander are different as far as negative ground block to battery to frame wire routing is concerned. I have an E-350 cutaway, but not with a 6.0L, so I can't report how the wiring is different, other than it obviously isn't the same as a pickup.


The basic principals that Jack discusses in his videos might still apply though, if in fact there is an insufficiency in the van's OEM grounding.


I learned, more with GM than with Ford, that there is a science to vehicle grounding that is beyond what appears at first glance to be obvious. Vehicle electrical engineers leverage distance and resistance in ground circuits to accomplish certain effects, including protecting sensitive modules from becoming an alternative ground path for higher current devices and loads. What I learned made me cautious about changing ground locations, and reticent to tie certain grounding points together.


Since each vehicle type has different locations for the more sensitive modules on board, some consideration should be given to the specifics of the vehicle when augmenting grounds.

 

And why I haven't published anything, especially with incomplete tests. It may be the most beneficial ground loop you could ask for.

The vid with the upgraded cables is an acceptable way to get the batteries into better balance with a pickup, but still can be improved upon. The more I had looked into what Ford did with the 6.0 the more questions I had. That driver's battery negative connection was not what was originally intended, it was supposed to go to the block like the 7.3L did, with the passenger leg from the block to the frame only for the rear electrics (lights and trailer), not to carry the drivers battery current.

But there's more complications then just that, forcing the bonding cables way too much as pathways, which are not even in the schematics as part of the electrical system. And as the aftermarket adds in more paths between the alt/block to the sheetmetal it just makes it worse.

What you don't want is the electronics to become the pathway, but they can connect to it. The big problem becomes when you start to go direct to the battery terminal. In Europe thats highly restricted, but in the US its commonplace for both DIY and worse audio shops to run singular or multiple cables to the battery terminal. So if you loose your main negative path (ground) you're added cables/wires become the main path. Electronics too if that's where they come from.

 

Jack are speaking of only positive side connections? The "other" ground would be a direct to batt neg side. If you want to answer offline that is fine. I have not done the "other" ground yet as I have been concerned since I haven't done the Driver's side Neg to Block run yet. Planning to do that 1st or both at the same time...

Thanks,
Scott

 

No doubt it's been rebuilt and/or replaced many times. Seems like the shuttle company donated it to the non-profit just when it needed some love.

I got the van for free and it's been an amazing learning experience. I have replaced about the same amount of parts as I have in my E150 van. It's hard to go back and drive the E150 after driving this beast. The E150 is my commuter and parts runner van.

 

Good news! I am getting the Odyssey batteries-someone dropped sick tonight and I get 4.5 hours overtime. Almost enough $ to buy 1 battery. I have wasted more time thinking about the stupid batteries!

Thanks everyone for all the help. It's been useful to me.

Time to start thinking about the alternator upgrade. Maybe someone will drop sick tomorrow...

 

It's the un-switched side that gets you into trouble, and I tend to see it more since I look at the negative side as where power is moving from rather then the positive side.

It gets you into trouble when there are different resistances, which result in different voltages most of the time. It's why we have bonding straps. But let me do this in a go/no go manner.






A guy puts a stereo amp in his truck. Wanting better sound he runs the negative connection directly to the battery.





Something happened to the stock negative cable, terminal to the chassis ground. Once the blower motor is turned on high now all the power is going through the added cable and the circuits in the amp.





If the amps negative connection was to the chassis then neither the amp, blower, or any other device would be powered.





If the amp was absolutely isolated, then there would not be an issue either, just the amp would work but not the blower if the battery to chassis cable was broken.





But if the cable going between the amp and battery was a 2/0, he may never notice, unless the amp circuit blew up. But just not going direct to battery gets you out of that issue. What I did was incorporate the chassis ground into the circuit from the battery, providing a better pathway, IMO.

 

Coolfeet, with the way this flu season is starting to go you might be able to get the camper sooner then you think, if you stay healthy.

 

Roger that!

I maintain the computer systems and vehicle maintenance for a local PD. Most of my work centers around people not understanding what connection goes to what. These guys are experts in firearms. However, they do not know the difference between their flashlight charger and the on-button to their mobile computer.

Check engine lights? The vehicle still runs says the officer! They run 'em 'till the engine seizes. I am not joking!

 

I am buying the batteries in the next few days as the voltage went down to 12.2 volts after sitting idle for 9 days. I measured the voltage near the fuse box. There is a black plastic cover that has a + sign on it. I probed the + and the alternator ground strap.

Is the Odyssey Performance 65 760 AGM a good 5-year battery choice?


You asked about the year of the van the alternator came out of. To be honest, I am not sure of the year. The alternator came out of an E350, 6.0 PSD with the dual alternator, upper. It was around 2006 or newer.

You mentioned the type of voltage regulator could potentially have an effect on system voltage during glow plug operation).

My van is a 2004. I read some of your old alternator threads saying something like weak 110 amp alternator put out something like 10 + volts to the glow plugs. I thought that was for 97-98 year 7.3 diesel and not the 6.0.

 

I bought the Extremes, not sure how similar (or different) the two are. I do know the Extremes are TPPL batteries and have a 4 year warranty, non prorated. Here is a link to my thread about replacing my batts, I'm very pleased with these Odysseys:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-heads-up.html

Scott

 

I found your thread yesterday. Too late for any of the coupons and I need batteries now. I have been feeling the batteries getting weaker for the past 2 months. The AutoZone 20% off coupon is expired. I found an Autozone 20% off coupon for in-stock merchandise only.

My van is not my daily driver. Time was on my side until the batteries finally gave out. I charged the batteries and let the van sit for 9 days. Voltage dropped to 12.2+ volts. Essentially Dead!

Thanks for responding. My

 

Coolfeet: As you saw at the beginning of that thread, the same battery as the Odyssey Extreme, made by Enersys, can be had through Batteries + Bulbs under their store brand (it has a blue top). They often have discounts and rebates and you should check there, because they could have sourced those Group 65 Batteries within a day for me - some stores will even have them in stock. Couple things on theirs: one more year non-prorated warranty AND they install (that could be a nice thing for your back).

Just wanted to make sure you didn't miss that front part...

Scott

 

The Batteries + Bulbs blue top X2Power battery is made by Northstar, not Enersys. Although to be fair to Scott, the Chief Technology Officer (Dr Frank Flemming) who started Northstar used to work for Hawker / Enersys, and Dr Flemming deployed the same TPPL designs in his own batteries. His three executive business partners also came from Enersys. So, very similar battery, but not technically manufactured by Enersys.

However, that being said, there are very few battery plants in the world that are capable of manufacturing TPPL, which makes one wonder if Enersys and Northstar use the same supplier plant in England.

There have been some differences between Northstar and Enersys batteries. For example, the Northstar has used brass post terminals, while the Enersys has used tin plated brass. The latter is better for corrosion resistance, but the former is better than what almost any other battery manufacturer uses. And, there is the possibility that Northstar has upgraded to tin plated brass posts by now. I haven't checked recently, so hold that out as a possibility.

While the Northstar branded battery has the same 4 year free in full warranty as the Enersys Odyssey Extreme, the private label blue top battery that Northstar makes for Batteries + Bulbs goes one step further with a 5 year free in full warranty. Ascent Technologies, which owns the Batteries + Bulbs franchise, provides the fifth year of coverage.

Coolfeet, there is a Batteries + Bulbs store in San Francisco, Dublin and Pleasant Hill. Not sure which is closest to you. Call ahead for stocking levels if you are buying two. They sometimes only stock one deep.

I do not know much about the Odyssey Performance Series. In my mind, that would be kind of like buying a Mustang with a V6. Yeah, looks the same on the outside, and same manufacturer to boot, but I'm not going to buy a rental car Mustang just to sorta have a Mustang. If I'm going to get a muscle car, it dam well better have some MUSCLE, not just the body lines and a pony logo.

 

I found the Batteries Plus group 65 Blue Top. Cannot get any of the coupons to work. Battery rebates ended January! Maybe I will call the corporate office.

I tore my rotator cuff last week. Not sure if I want to tackle the batteries myself.

Here are my top choices:

Batteries & Bulbs X2 Power group 65 AGM $309. $279 with 10% off coupon. Looking for a rebate! $249 if I can find the rebate. Best warranty!
Odyssey Extreme AGM 65 at Autozone $236 (with online coupon).
Sears Die Hard Gold AGM (Deka Intimidator) $190 installed at Sears!