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need help with a crank no start!

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Old 01-16-2018, 09:32 PM
Mikedaneyoung Mikedaneyoung is offline
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need help with a crank no start!

So I got off work and go to start my truck. It started up just fine. It was 28 degree so pretty cold so i wanted to warm my truck up faster so i turned on my up fitter switch to high idle. As soon as i did this it killed the truck and now the truck will not start. turns over just fine just will not start. When turning the key on there is a weird clicking noise different from the noise of the glow plugs you normally here. Anyone have any idea what this could be?
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:37 PM
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check sync
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:49 PM
Mikedaneyoung Mikedaneyoung is offline
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that have to do with the ficm?
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:04 PM
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Assuming it's the 6.0? (high idle and no start, wild guess).

Sync is two things, cam and crank sensor sync, and cam/crank and FICM sync. Basically the FICM and the two sensors that determine where the cam and crank are rotationally all have to talk and agree they know when to inject fuel, or else it won't run. You check it through a scan tool, like one of these:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:12 PM
Mikedaneyoung Mikedaneyoung is offline
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Yes it is the 6.0. I had it towed to my mechanic so i'm sure he will run the test to see whats going on. It just had be worried because i just bought the truck and have already had to replace the oil cooler. Which was leaking way before i bought it but thats for another time haha. It has been bullet proofed egr delete and all. I"ve just heard some horror stories on the 6.0 don't want them to come to reality because i love the truck! Thanks for you help!
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:18 PM
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The sudden death thing is unusual, if it were driving instead of high idle I'd think it was a mechanical failure in the STC fitting. Most things like this are electrical or sensor related though, you made a good call getting it looked at if you don't have the scan tools to do the work. Diagnostic time is money well spent versus tossing parts into it.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:26 PM
Mikedaneyoung Mikedaneyoung is offline
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Yes i had just started the truck and maybe a minute later decided hey let me use the high idle to warm it up. I have a glow plug out so with it being cold and not warmed up enough maybe it was to much for the electrical to handle. Hopefully it won't cost a arm and a leg to fix whatever it is. just spent 1100 for the oil cooler
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Old 01-17-2018, 05:09 PM
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So update on the truck. Talked to the mechanic and he said it isn't getting enough oil pressure. Low oil pressure is good but its only getting about 150 oil pressure and needs 700. Any ideas?
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Old 01-17-2018, 05:38 PM
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After 2005 the HPOPs are pretty robust, could be a lot of different seals letting it leak, or the aforementioned STC. The tech needs to be competent enough to run an air test on the system, and check the ICP and IPR.

Since that probably reads like Greek.....

The high pressure oil pump (HPOP) is connected to the oil rails that feed each bank of 4 injectors; the injectors use the high pressure oil to drive a plunger that injects fuel into the cylinder. The pump's volume output is based on engine speed, so pressure is controlled by the injection pressure regulator (IPR) valve on the back of the pump cover. The injector control pressure (ICP) sensor feeds pressure data back to the PCM to control the IPR valve and regulate pressure. You read both the pressure and valve position at the same time to see if the pump's output is enough to run the engine.

There's a major fitting on the back of the pump that's a common failure point, call the Snap-to-Connect (STC) fitting, that has a bad habit of blowing out and causing no-start no-pressure situations. Then there are seals on the standpipes that carry oil up to the injectors rails, a "dummy plug" in each rail to seal an unused hole, then seals on top of all 8 injectors. Any of those tearing can cause no-start situations with varying amounts of pressure loss. The pump itself was redesigned in 2005 and is much more reliable than the earlier design (which was almost a 100k failure part), but pump failures aren't impossible.

I can't see the o-scope readings from the scanner so I can't tell you how ICP is behaving, but different failures modes have different characteristics, so hopefully your tech can sort it out with minimal parts swapping. He can air test the system to identify major leaks or a completely blown pump, can inspect and test the IPR valve, and can inspect the ICP sensor and harness. A mixture of seals and sensors is the most common solution to high pressure oil leaks.
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Old 01-17-2018, 07:49 PM
Mikedaneyoung Mikedaneyoung is offline
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Thanks for the explanation. When its all said and done with this 6.0 i will be able to be a mechanic for these rigs haha. but I went to see the progress today and he said that he needed to get it in the shop to do a air test on the system to see what exactly is going on and he mentioned the snap to connect fitting he wanted to check and also said it could be something as simple as an injector. So i hope he can get it figured out without costing me too much!! next ? is should i just try and cut my losses and get me a new f250?
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