Clutch fork & pedestal arrived from States last week, put them aside until I get enough inspiration to rip the transmission out.
Have an open chassis at the moment so not too hard to get at, although may not have enough room to slide back far enough just by removing the jackshaft, not looking forward to removing the auxilliary box as well.
Thanks again for help with part numbers and advice, Guys.
All the ginning around found it was far easier to get someone over here who has contacts over your way to chase the parts up and import them for me. Few extra bucks involved and they were delivered to my door.
Cheers, Dave

 

Thanks for the update.

 

I had exactly the same experience. I bought another one from c&g. Dennis carpenter has real Chinese crap.

 

I got a boot from Macs last week yeah made in China. One side is thin as a balloon and yeah put my finger thru it. Any one know where I can get an original no's. Thanks.

 

C5TZ-7513-A .. Clutch Release Lever Dust Shield / Obsolete ~ Reproduced.

1965 F100/350 & E100 from serial number 600,001 // 1966/67 E100 // 1966/72 F100/350 // 1966/77 Bronco V8 // 1969/74 E100/300 // 1973/76 F100/350 V8 // 1973/79 F100/350 I-6.

1975/80 E100/350 // 1977/79 F100/150 302 / 1980 F150/250 4WD & Bronco 302 // 1980 F150/350 4WD & Bronco 300 I-6.

You'll have to verify if the following are NOS or repro's.

NOS PARTS SOURCE in Olathe KS has 1 = 913-220-5746.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 1 = 800-543-4959.

MCDONALD OBSOLETE PARTS in Rockport IN has 3 = 812-359-4965.

OBSOLETE RELIABLE PARTS in Nashville GA has 5 = 229-686-5101.

 

Thanks ND!

 

I ordered a new one from C&G. We'll see how it goes...
I wonder if the silicon roof boots they use in roofing applications would be a better option?

Dan

 

Well, finally worked up enough enthusiasm to remove the NP435 from the chassis.
Had the box and the bellhousing up on the bench and noticed that I had two different length clutch throwout levers! Replacement one I had sent over from the States, not only shorter by about one inch from the fulcrum pivot point to where the hydraulic push rod actuates the lever, but is also a "blind" hole, obviously uses a different push rod.
From centre of fulcrum pivot point to tips of fingers where they engage the throwout bearing spring clips, also about 3/8" shorter on newer type.
Never noticed it before as it was still in the package on a shelf in the shed. Not insurmountable, but looks like I will have to drill out the retaining spring clip rivets on the new updated lever, then drill the OLD lever with two holes to mount the new spring clip on it and re-rivet the clip to match the new fulcrum. Bit of a pain, but only way I can see around it.
Just reading what you guys have written about this, seems we over here in OZ used the hydraulic clutch system, whereas you guys used the bellcrank manual throwout system.
Rang a bloke up who has a bit to do with F100 spares over here, he said that they changed the setup over here in about 1975 until they stopped using the NP435, can't verify that either.
Just ginning around with it on the bench, looks like I'll have to put about a 5mm (1/4") spacer between the base of the fulcrum and the actual cast iron bellhousing, no great drama there as new fulcrum came with extra long replacement rivets. Measuring from face of clutch plate (still assembled) to face of bell when mounted on box, and also from face of housing at back of block, only way I can seem to get enough "travel" with standard Ford components.
Only thing I can think of is either I ordered the wrong clutch throwout lever or have been sent the wrong one.
Also, the actual clutch lever rod (hydraulic) differs from what seems to be your version, yours being L/H drive the rod has an "eye" one end which hooks directly to the clutch pedal bellcrank. Ours being R/H drive and hydraulic, had a two piece rod that was threaded internally as well as externally, so you simply unwound the thread until you got your clearances right and then locked it with a locknut. The other end of this lever had a large musroom head affair on it so it wouldn't go through the eyehole, with a light spring going to a "Z" bracket mounted to the slave cylinder. Only trouble with this system is that even setting it up with a brand new clutch plate and throwout bearing, there is very little actual thread left on the adjustable pushrod, probably have to get a longer rod threaded to accept the female end. Suppose technically speaking, as the clutch plate wears the actual clearance between the rod and the hydraulic piston has to atually shorten. Looks a bit of trial and error to me.
Dave 64

 

I got my boot from Summit:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDK-C6OZ-7513-C

This particular one may not fit your trans, but the quality was very good. If this one doesn't fit, they may have another style that will.

 

This is the wrong dust shield, it's for a car: 1965/70 Falcon / 1965/71 Fairlane/Mustang / 1967/71 Cougar.

See post 20 for the correct truck dust shield.

 

ND - You have forgot more than I will ever know about these trucks, but this is the dust boot that is on my truck today. Maybe I have a different bellhousing?

 

Is there a part number or does anyone know if you can get just the bailing ring/wire somewhere? When I tore everything down I found that "wire" to be missing. Does it have a specific function besides just holding it on making the re-install a little easier.

 

I have a brand new one, 15.00 plus shipping.

 

Do you know what the part number is for it or at least part number for the one you have that fits. I would like to try and find it local if I can. I don't do PayPal or anything like that so have no way to purchase. Thanks.