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2007 F-150 no heat

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  #1  
Old 01-14-2018, 02:33 PM
lstr81
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2007 F-150 no heat

Have a 2007 F-150 . Had a new compressor put on and now I have no heat. Had it in a garage and they flushed it said it was ok. But still no heat. New thermostat. Now here is what I have found. the heater hose going in gets warm, not hot but the exit hose is cold. Also I can not feel water going thru the radiator hoses. I am thinking of changing water pump but am leery. I can drive it but it doesn't overheat. Any ideas on what to check would be appreciated. I also checked the belt routing and it is ok
 
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Old 01-14-2018, 04:52 PM
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If it does not overheat, then I probably has a good water pump.
--first check the antifreeze level in the tank to see that it is proper full
--sometimes parking with the front end UP a slope will make air bubbles in the heater / hoses go forward to the tank and out.
--the hoses have to both be HOT... if not, you have no flow.
--look at the heater hoses where they connect to the motor and verify that there is no shut off valve... SOME trucks have a vacuum operated valve to shut off water in the summer when heat is not needed.
 
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Old 01-14-2018, 07:19 PM
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Does the engine fully warmup?
 
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Old 01-15-2018, 09:19 PM
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There is no radiator cap on the '07, so maybe they didn't get it full enough. Here's a little check that we all need to make every so often; after driving until system is fully warmed up, take a Sharpie and mark where the hot level is on the coolant surge tank. The next morning, open the hood and mark the cold level. It should be about 1/2" or more lower than the hot level. The next time you drive it, just open the hood and see that its at the hot level again after fully warming up.
This check tells you a lot; like, the system is pressure/vacuum tight, its full and there is no air in the system.
If the level doesn't change, the system is leaking pressure/vacuum. This could be anything from a hose leak to bad head gaskets.
If the level changes but seems to be going down on both hot and cold, it just means the system has been opened, like you changed a hose and refilled it, and it is working air out of the system. Just keep adding 50/50 until it stabilizes and be sure not to let the tank get empty and suck air on the cool-down.
So, what is the condition of your surge tank? Sounds like low coolant OR the HVAC head unit is not working OR the heater valve is not working. My guess is not much of a guess, the guys who put in the AC compressor obviously did something that affected the heater valve and/or the coolant level.
 
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Old 01-17-2018, 09:25 AM
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I have watched the surge tank and have not seen the level move from cold to hot. As with most vehicles you can see the water circulating but I do not notice mine moving. I agree the water pump doesn't seem likely because it seems to run cool. The radiator hoses get warm but not really hot. This has got me baffled. Going to check thermostat .Thanks for all the replies . But it seems to me that the system is not pressurizing ????
 
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Old 01-17-2018, 12:30 PM
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The surge tank is not tied IN LINE to the system. I is just a tank with a drain hose connected to the radiator to refill system as needed.. When motor is running, you normally don't see much movement. As the motor runs, entrained air accumulates in the tank. As the motor cools back down, the antifreeze is pulled into the radiator/ block , and the air is left in the tank. When all bubbles ( air) is gone, the tank level should stop going down overnight.......... To check if pressurized, run motor until thermostat is about open ( gauge mid range), shut off motor and crack the tank fill cap slightly.. Should hear pressure escaping.. DO NOT REMOVE. If radiator hoses and heater hoses are not hot ( 180 degrees), then NORMALLY the thermostat is not working. You should see that in the temp gauge on the dash.
 
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Old 01-17-2018, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by lstr81 View Post
I have watched the surge tank and have not seen the level move from cold to hot. As with most vehicles you can see the water circulating but I do not notice mine moving. I agree the water pump doesn't seem likely because it seems to run cool. The radiator hoses get warm but not really hot. This has got me baffled. Going to check thermostat .Thanks for all the replies . But it seems to me that the system is not pressurizing ????
Does the temp gauge go to normal? Plug into the OBD port and read the temp. If you don't have a tool, $25 is all you need https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-no-codes.html

You need to determine if your engine is not heating up (thermos stat) or if you problem is due to the HVAC.
 
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Old 01-18-2018, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by steve(ill) View Post
The surge tank is not tied IN LINE to the system. I is just a tank with a drain hose connected to the radiator to refill system as needed.. When motor is running, you normally don't see much movement. As the motor runs, entrained air accumulates in the tank. As the motor cools back down, the antifreeze is pulled into the radiator/ block , and the air is left in the tank. When all bubbles ( air) is gone, the tank level should stop going down overnight.......... To check if pressurized, run motor until thermostat is about open ( gauge mid range), shut off motor and crack the tank fill cap slightly.. Should hear pressure escaping.. DO NOT REMOVE. If radiator hoses and heater hoses are not hot ( 180 degrees), then NORMALLY the thermostat is not working. You should see that in the temp gauge on the dash.


You are misinformed. When the coolant warms up, pressure in the surge tank increases because the coolant expands into it, raising the coolant level in the tank and raising the pressure to the system normal which is usually about 15 psi. Opening this tank is the same thing as opening the radiator as you stated, so its surprising, especially considering your obvious knowledge and experience in automotive technology, that you do not realize the coolant level in this tank rises and falls with coolant temperature when the cooling system is in nominal condition.
The OP is experiencing a thermostat failure possibly due to incorrect installation, but for whatever reason the coolant is not heating up properly so naturally there is little to no heat available in the heater core. The other result of this is little to no change in the coolant level in the tank.
 
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Old 01-19-2018, 09:01 PM
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I didn't say the tank level didn't go up and down with temp... HE said he was looking for FLOW like looking into the top tank of a radiator.. YES, the level will go up and down, you can see the HOT and COLD marks on the tank. What I was saying is, you normally don't see a FLOW thru the tank since it is not IN LINE with the system.


I agree, if none of the hoses are hot, then he has a bad thermostat or air bubble in the system.
 
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Old 01-20-2018, 08:13 AM
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Okay, I see what you mean. Definitely no visible flow in the expansion tank since it only has one connection to the cooling system - the only movement would be the very slow rising and falling of the level with heating/cooling cycles. Even the old coolant recovery tanks were the same and were also excellent indicators of the health of the system by showing you not only the appearance of the coolant but indicating a sealed or open system by the fluid level fluctuating or remaining static. I just don't know why it took so long for them to come into use. If my '67 Mustang had a coolant recovery tank back then, it would have saved me a lot of trouble with coolant going bad and failing water pumps and radiators. If I had a vintage car now, it definitely would have one, 'correct' or not.
 
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Old 01-20-2018, 09:09 AM
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I want to thank all of you gor responfing. Looks like I will change the thermostat. The gauge go to the middle as in normal heat range but I never thought to hook a OBD to it. Maybe that will tell me something. I appreciate all the input. Sometimes we think too hard and miss the obvious.
 
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Old 01-21-2018, 11:28 AM
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Ok I took the thermostat out and it was working. Now The coolant tank has a hose going into the bottom of it that comes from the area of the oil pump. The return heater hose goes down to it. then up to the return tank. Any body know of a switch on it . I can't see it without removing a few parts . Maybe a site that would show the flow cycle
 
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Old 01-21-2018, 08:47 PM
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Look; can you drive the car for 30 minutes, stop and leave the engine running, then grab the upper radiator hose and hold on for five seconds? If you can, the engine is running cold. if you can't, the thermostat is working and you have normal temperature, so there must be a problem with the heater core or heater controls.
 
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Old 01-21-2018, 09:46 PM
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Istr81... the radiator bottom is the suction to the water pump.. The lower hose or suction line would be a lower pressure than the pump discharge or upper radiator hose....and the overflow tank would normally be connected to the lower radiator hose / water pump and can add makeup water as needed.. That's why I said you probably will not see much MOVEMENT inside the tank.. Level will rise and fall, but don't expect to see water FLOWING.............. also , I don't know the exact location of the heater OUTLET hose, but it would normally dump back into the bottom radiator hose/ water pump suction area since that is the LOW PRESSURE end..... and the heater inlet hose would be connected on the top of the motor with the thermostat housing / radiator top hose , and this is the higher pressure end. You have to have a differential pressure ( just a psi or two) to get the water to move........ from the radiator bottom- thru the pump - thru the motor block - out to the heater or radiator top hose to radiator...
 
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:24 AM
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I had this problem with another vehicle and the problem actually ended up being with the dial on the dash. I had to solder a wire onto a connector that had worked it's way lose.
 
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