Oil change time.
#1
Oil change time.
6.7, 4x4 first oil change 7000 - 7500 miles. Just looking to make sure I have everything planned right before I start.
Drain the oil, making as little mess as possible.
Change the filter, pre-fill the new one before installing.
Replace oil. 13 quarts total.
Reset the oil life monitor
Top off DEF (I'm at about a quarter tank)
Grease U joints at front hubs.
Drain water separator, I did this about about 2000 as well, but at the oil change seems like a good time as well.
Any service items I am forgetting?
Drain the oil, making as little mess as possible.
Change the filter, pre-fill the new one before installing.
Replace oil. 13 quarts total.
Reset the oil life monitor
Top off DEF (I'm at about a quarter tank)
Grease U joints at front hubs.
Drain water separator, I did this about about 2000 as well, but at the oil change seems like a good time as well.
Any service items I am forgetting?
#4
#5
I use a punch to make a small hole in the bottom of the filter. It lets the filter drain so it doesn't make such a mess when I spin it off. It does take a few minutes for it to drain fully.
#6
The plan is to get a 5 gallon bucket under it, in case it drops. The other little secret to make future changes easier is the drain plug gets replaced with a Flomoto valve. No issues catching 12 quarts next time.
#7
Front axle joints each have a zerk fitting - grease away.
Like Clubwagon says, I did same and punched the filter first and let it drain for a long time to keep the mess at a minimum. Loosen the oil cap up top first to allow air into the engine. Once the filter is off and the filter area where it screws onto had stopped dripping, I moved the bucket to the oil pan and drained that, letting it drip out for about an hour - wanted all the old oil gone as much as possible. I was not in a rush. Perfect time to drain the water filter and grease the front while waiting. I use this system now after the first change: https://www.nospillsystems.com/
Like Clubwagon says, I did same and punched the filter first and let it drain for a long time to keep the mess at a minimum. Loosen the oil cap up top first to allow air into the engine. Once the filter is off and the filter area where it screws onto had stopped dripping, I moved the bucket to the oil pan and drained that, letting it drip out for about an hour - wanted all the old oil gone as much as possible. I was not in a rush. Perfect time to drain the water filter and grease the front while waiting. I use this system now after the first change: https://www.nospillsystems.com/
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#8
#9
Take a sample in the middle of the drain (a Fumoto valve makes this easy) and send it off for evaluation. I send my stuff to Blackstone Labs. In fact, USPS says they just received the sample from me TODAY for the oil change I did this past weekend.
Also, I drain my fuel/water separator every 5K miles (more often than oil changes). It's SO simple to do on these trucks.
Also, I drain my fuel/water separator every 5K miles (more often than oil changes). It's SO simple to do on these trucks.
#10
Been changing my own oil for nearly 25 years. This was the first time I've ever had the gasket stick on the housing. Very little issue with the filter otherwise. One minor 'slosh' with the pan, as the pan was draining, but other than that no issues.
#11
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I punched a hole in the bottom of the oil filter, then had to punch a hole in the side to get enough leverage to loosen the filter. As soon and it would spin I put a gallon milk jug (with the bottom cut off, cap on) under the filter. That caught all the stray oil that didn't come out the hole punched in the bottom of the filter. That made for a very clean oil change.
#12
#13
~37 years myself and, when I changed my oil last Monday, it was the FIRST time I've ever had the gasket from the old filter stick to the vehicle. Easy to see, so, no big deal.
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