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In truck connected battery charging

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Old 01-12-2018, 10:07 AM
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In truck connected battery charging

Are we ok with charging batteries while they are still hooked up in the truck? I did quite a bit of searching even with bullnose key word and site:ford-trucks.com


I don't have a problem but I'm being proactive and trying to help my poor little battery with a 2 amps charge. Gonna be in the thirties for a week....
 
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Old 01-12-2018, 11:31 AM
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I have done it that way with no issues..
BTW if you have to charge the battery when it is 30 out what you going to do when it gets down into the teens?
If the batt will not hold a charge at 30 get a net one. I have had batteries sit all weekend at -20 and start no problem.
Dave - - - -
 
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Old 01-12-2018, 01:31 PM
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The battery is fine I'm just trying to give it a boost. Might be wasting my time I don't know. I'm just leery of it laying an egg this is the time of year when they suddenly decide to not work anymore.
 
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Old 01-12-2018, 02:11 PM
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It pays to give the battery and charge system a little lovin' now and then. No worries with battery charging connected, so long as ignition switch is OFF.

2 amp setting is (mostly) for murdersickle and lawn equipment batts. It will work, but the 10 amp is the right "size" for efficient charging.

Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals and watch and learn how it works. First, disable the ignition and crank the engine for 10 seconds or so to draw the battery down some. Then charge it.

The current always starts out high, in this case at 10 amps (a battery will draw as much current as is provided) and the voltage starts out low, around 12 volts. Keep in mind 12 volts isn't enough to charge anything.

The current tapers off over time to almost nothing as the charge reaches 100%, and voltage around 15 volts ( at 30 degrees F), a battery needs about 2 volts above the normal voltage to approach a full charge. It takes longer in cold weather. They also like to "cook" a while. Moderate outgassing is good, make sure to provide plenty of ventilation. Be careful. There is tremendous potential energy stored in a start battery. No smoking, sparks, or open flame around batteries.

If you monitor the current going in the battery is charged when it tapers off to just a few tenths of an amp and is outgassing freely.
 
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Old 01-12-2018, 07:43 PM
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+1 on everything suggested so far. Two more suggestions, not directly related to battery charging. My coworkers noticed two things as they looked over my shoulder at truck ****.

1) If you had said, "How can I increase the odds of electrocuting myself?", I'd say you've got that covered. That 3-pronged grounded AC plug connected to a non-grounded extension cord? Not a good combination, especially outdoors with potentially wet surfaces. But you didn't actually ask that, so I'm gonna go out on a limb and say you'd prefer to not electrocute yourself.

2) If you had said, "How can I increase the odds of a minor fender bender turning into a Car-B-Q?", I'd say you've got that covered, too. That bungee cord "securing" the battery makes the hair stand up on the back of my neck. Not only is it not doing much securing, the way it's installed wants to tip the battery forward. Factor in a little forward momentum and sudden stoppage, and that poor thing may tip and let the positive terminal touch ground. This is one situation where one would actually prefer the battery to be discharged, but since it just came off a charger, that's not the case. A battery shorted to ground can easily start a fire. The first pic here shows the factory battery tiedown system, with two J-bolts and the bracket on the battery tied to that bracket where you've presently hooked the bungee cord.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-starter.html

Respectfully submitted...
 
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Old 01-12-2018, 10:25 PM
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Thanks for your observations old stuff is one thing unsafe is another. I just spent some time googling three prong vs two and it's a little clearer now. I was always confused by what seemed no rhyme or reason to their occurrence but I reckon the two prong extension cord is for two prong devices (... yeah....) which would be mostly indoor. I just looked at the plugs for the TV and cable box and they are not grounded...two prongs only...so I guess they have a reason. . Going forward if the device has a ground pin it will go into a grounded extension cord into a grounded receptacle. No more dummy adapters.
As for the bungee hold down there is no excuse I'll get on it as in procuring a real hold down
Thanks
 
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Old 01-13-2018, 08:17 AM
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Appliances and tools which have plastic housings can get away without having a 3 prong grounded outlet. Appliances and tools with metal housings should and usually do have a ground prong on their cords, just like your charger has a metal housing.
 
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Old 01-13-2018, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
Appliances and tools which have plastic housings can get away without having a 3 prong grounded outlet. Appliances and tools with metal housings should and usually do have a ground prong on their cords, just like your charger has a metal housing.

For the charger, I was going to suggest getting an automatic one with a 2 prong plug. As inexpensive as they are, there would be two big advantages over the existing one:

1) A charger (or any tool/appliance) with a 2 prong plug is double insulated, meaning the case is non-conductive, among other protective features. This is much safer, especially for something typically used outdoors with potentially wet surfaces.

2) An automatic charger is so much easier to use. Just plug it in and walk away. The little green light turns on when fully charged. There's no need to monitor the voltage or current flow and decide if/when the battery is fully charged.


Looking at your picture again, is that a side-post battery? I've never been a big fan of them, and have had a couple give me lots of grief. From my limited experience, the terminal bolt arrangement just can't handle a lot of current flow. When the bolt is snug, the rest of the terminal makes good contact and all is well. But if that bolt loosens even a smidge, the rest of the terminal no longer makes good contact with the battery. Suddenly lots of current flows through the bolt, which isn't designed for it. This causes arcing and erosion on the threads, both male and female. Then one day you notice the starter dragging or other electrical issues, you find the bolts loose, and you snug them down, and everything seems good for a while. The cycle then repeats itself but tends to get worse as the threads keep eroding. The female threads in the battery are soft material, so they take the worst abuse.

Then one day your truck won't start at all, leaving you stranded. Normally this wouldn't be too big of a deal, as you could start a thread here, and after 200+ posts, we might get close to an answer. However, if your truck didn't start immediately after robbing a bank, that could be a problem. Next thing you know, you're serving 8 to 12 years. Prison food is a big adjustment, among other issues you may face behind bars. All of this could have been avoided if you switch back to the top post design when it's time to replace the existing battery.
 
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:15 AM
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Tried to find a one piece big jumbo plastic doggie bone hold down to no avail. Ended up with this two piece. Not real thrilled with it but I'll see how it works out. Got the mile long j-bolts too.
Looks like an offshore drilling rig.
 
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:32 AM
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Looks like I need an E0TZ-10718-B

Photo courtesy of Dennis Carpenter
 
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Old 01-13-2018, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 82_F100_300Six View Post
Got the mile long j-bolts too.

I've got the two-piece hold down for the aux battery on my truck. Not the prettiest thing, but it works fine.

For the long J-bolts, use a RotaBroach cutter for clearance with the hood. They leave a nice clean hole in sheet metal, unlike a regular twist drill:

https://www.amazon.com/Blair-Equipment-11090N-Rotabroach-Cutter/dp/B000LQOCRK https://www.amazon.com/Blair-Equipment-11090N-Rotabroach-Cutter/dp/B000LQOCRK


Gently lower the hood once to mark where to drill the two holes.
 
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Old 01-13-2018, 01:51 PM
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The j-bolts actually clear the hood just fine but I do want to cut them down if I can figure out how to do it without buggering up the threads at the end.
I went out after I got home and cut a slice of 1/2" plywood to slide underneath the bridge with a slight interference fit...seems to stabilise the whole contraption.

Also when I uncased my makita I was ready to see a ground plug and it didn't have one. I guess I won't worry about what I think should be just that if it has a ground plug then get the correct cord and outlet.
 
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Old 01-13-2018, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 82_F100_300Six View Post
The j-bolts actually clear the hood just fine but I do want to cut them down if I can figure out how to do it without buggering up the threads at the end.
Piece of cake! Here's a good video explaining the process, using a spare nut to clean up the cut end:




I've got to say I'm impressed. I started out giving you a bit of fun (semi-serious because of the potential safety issues) and you were all over it. Kudos!

And while we're at it, I noticed some of that siding in the background looks like it might be working loose...
 
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Old 01-13-2018, 02:43 PM
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What annoys me is the virulent strain of black mildew that I periodically blast off with a pressure washer. I only drive it on my days off and it sits in the grass 24-7.
 
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Old 01-13-2018, 03:31 PM
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Got them cut down very quickly with a hacksaw. Started out with a Dremel type cut off wheel and it bounced around soooo bad I cut a wedge out like I was felling a tree.
 
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