Well, it's my fault. I bought the tank before I dropped the old one. The new tank has the hole in the top for the vapor fuel valve, which my truck doesn't have. I bought it through Advanced Auto Parts website, so it's possible I can go to one of my local stores and have them order me the right one. What I don't want to do is ship this thing back and wait another 10 days to get a new one. Has anyone ever ordered one with the hole and just sealed or capped it off with something? It was finally warm enough today to work on this truck and this was just another hiccup I didn't need. The filler neck was jacked up as well, so I'll be replacing that too. Just in case anyone wants a good laugh, I'll attach some pics of the inside of the old gas tank as well as the sending unit (which I'll also have to replace). Ethanol is the devil.

 

As long as you have a vented fuel cap, I don't see why you cannot block it off, just use proper fuel line to do so .and use an fuel stabilizer every so often especially if it sits for periods of time between driving to help the new tank not varnish / shellac up as bad since newer gas these days is not the same as back in the 70's

 

Well, I've read various ways that guys have plugged this hole, from installing a fuel tank valve and capping it off, to JB Weld over the hole, etc. I'm leaning towards returning the tank to Advanced and ordering the correct tank. I was hoping there was a cap that cleanly covered this hole. I've made it this far, I don't want to start jerry-rigging stuff if I can help it. Just frustrated because they took about 10 days to send the tank. None of the local auto parts stores have these tanks and they take at least 5 days and are around 50 dollars more than the online stores.

 

I was thinking more of this ..
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/197...SABEgKDCvD_BwE

put the proper valve in tank and plug the hose with proper fuel line,,I am not sure if this one is the one you need and I think it requires a grommet,,if you were in ky I would swap tanks with you as I need a vented but have a new non vented,,but plan on just using a vented fuel cap,,well I say new, its about a year old an came with truck

 

I saw that in my searches. I'm wondering if other cars/trucks use the same size valves? I'd rather buy this locally if possible, mainly because I can get it quicker. If all else fails, I'll give the ol' Bronco Graveyard a shot.

 

You can buy the valve an grommet from local auto parts store,,in stock is another story

 

X2 on get the correct grommet and EEC check valve and then install and just cap it off.

So the man says "There are two differences between the tanks. Tanks with EEC have a hole in the top center of the tank. A rubber grommet and check valve are pressed into the hole. A line goes from the check valve along the inside of the passenger side frame rail to the engine compartment where it hooks up to a charcoal canister. Non-EEC tanks don't have this hole. The other difference is the nipple for the breather line that is located right next to the nipple for the filler hose is located 180 degrees opposite.
If you are going from an EEC tank to a non-EEC tank you must also change the fuel cap to a vented style. The EEC tanks are vented through the EEC system and use a sealed fuel cap. Non-EEC tanks vent through the fuel filler cap. If you run a non-EEC tank and a sealed cap the minimum is you'll have fuel starvation problems, at worst a collapsed fuel tank."

 

If you can't wait, weld a patch over it.

 

Well, another difference in the tank has convinced me to just return it so I can order the correct one. It's gonna set me back another week but what can you do? I noticed when I was looking at the the filler neck and vent tube that's next to it, the two are flip-flopped on the new tank. Normally this wouldn't be a big deal but on this truck it is. The space that the filler neck tube goes through is so tight that you actually have to squeeze it oblong to get it over the frame. There's really no way to criss-cross the hoses from the tank to the filler on the truck bed. So if I had any advice to give folks when replacing their fuel tanks, it's that you remove the tank first. That way you will see exactly what you need and make the right decision the first time. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

 

Have 2 new ones in NY..
I like to check sites such as:
www.rockauto.com
or
National Parts Depot | Restoring American History | Mustang Parts | Camaro Parts | Chevelle Parts | Ford Truck Parts | T-Bird Parts | Firebird Parts | Chevy Truck Parts
for applications
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...fuel+tank,6268
Like you figured, take it back. You might want to get a new filler hose too. A friend got a tank and hose from
www.macsautoparts.com

 

Thanks for the information. And most definitely will need a new filler hose, the original is split wide open. One more reason to drop everything first, then order accordingly.

 

The vapor valve has a nipple on it. All you have to do is install the valve & its O-ring, then cap the nipple w/a rubber plug.

These vapor valves fit quite a few applications, but there are two different types.

Which tank, mid-ship or aft axle?

 

The tank in the picture in post #3, is a aft axle application.

 

Once you get the rubber fill neck thru have, you seen this metal piece before?

 

D8AZ-9B593-A (replaced D4OZ-9B593-A & D6AZ-9B593-A) .. Fuel Vapor Valve / Obsolete ~ Available NOS & from auto parts stores.

1974/79 F100/350 & 1975/79 Econoline with aft axle fuel tank.

1974/75 Torino/Ranchero/Thunderbird/Continental Mark IV; 1975 Granada/Monarch; 1976/79 all FoMoCo 4/6/V8 Passenger Cars.