We recently took delivery of a 2017 F250 Lariat, 4 X 4 Crew Cab, 6.7 diesel, 3.55 rear end and 20" tires. Imagine my dismay when I discovered that our 5er (2000 Forest River Cherokee) will not hook up without a serious "nose up" issue. We had not planned to purchase a new 5er, but research indicates that there is not a practical way to match an old 5er with a 55" overhang to a new truck that sits at 60".


We are, therefore resigned to the fact that we are going to need a replacement 5er. But . . . again, research indicates difficulty there as well. Consensus seems to be that RV manufacturers and Truck manufacturers are not working too well together and this too may be harder than first thought.


So, my request is simple . . . can any of you fine members tell me what 5er will fairly easily hook to my new truck. Would prefer a 30' unit. Any help short of suggesting a new truck and major surgery on the existing 5er would be helpful.

 

You may look at other hitches. Many offer height adjustment which is helpful as these trucks get taller and taller. I use an Andersen and even with the hitch set at the lowest setting, the 5er is still slightly nose up, but not enough that I'm concerned about it. Could use about 2" lower hitch height. I know Andersen offers a shorter hitch, but then I'd be concerned about bed rail clearance. I guess an easy solution would be one with more pin weight to squat the truck a little more...lol. My 350 is level with my 14k 5er hooked up.

 

Thanks slapshot - neglected to mention that I have a 6' 8" bed so am using a supeglide hitch which sits 19" high (2" below rails). Hitch height won't help much. In order to hook up my current 5er it end up more than 10" nose high with rail clearance from 6" in front to 3" in back. No good.

 

Flip the axles on your 5er?

 

You MAY be able to keep all that you have...BUT more needs to be understood.

1) Is a F250 enough truck? Weigh the truck/trailer on a truck scale. From that you can determine if the truck is big enough. Check all ratings with special attention to truck cargo carrying (versus pin weight, hitch, and other cargo) and axle/tire ratings (versus scale readings)

2) If you have enough truck, tackle getting the trailer way more level. Slowpoke's suggestion on flipping the axles is a great idea. Likely the biggest improvement for the cost. Lippert makes a kit to align trailer axle tracking that will give you another 2" by effectively lengthening the spring hangers. Depending on how much the truck's rear end sags you might be able to lower the rear with shorter spring blocks.

3) Smaller tires and/or truck wheels and larger trailer tires/wheels will help a little...but may not be very cost effective.

4) Having a competent shop raise the trailer with steel "sub frame" can be done with excellent results...but as much as a couple $1000 bills will be needed.

Sadly, there may not be a simple/safe/cost effective solution. Good luck and please update how this turns out.

 

I would go with First Dually's suggestion of a sub frame for the 5er.


My Cedar Creek is level but would be to much tongue weight for an F-250.

 

Just buy the kit and put the axles below the springs, gives about 3" of extra height. I went with the Dexter conversion kit from etrailer, ran just over $100 for the two axles. While I was at it, I also upgraded to the never fail shackle and bolt it while I was at it.

Not a great expense, but it was a pretty time consuming job and a couple of helpers sure come in handy.

 

Most of the Grand Design Reflection 5th-wheels have about 61-inches below the front overhang. You'd likely still be a couple of inches nose-high after the truck deflected downward. As with other 5th wheels, your payload capacity would likely be a problem.

 

I'm thinking that the 20" wheels contribute to the nose up trailer attitude by lifting the truck about 1"?

 

there are lots of guys lowering the rear of these 2017 pickups by installing the rear blocks from an earlier model. Look in the 2017 super duty section and search for lowering rear suspension..

 

I just replaced my 2016 F250 4x2 short bed with an F350 just like you describe. The unloaded bed height on the F250 was 32 inches, 39 inches on the F350 so I expected some problems getting the fiver level. I worked the math every way possible and nothing added up.

I'm pulling a Grand Design Reflection 337RLS 35' fiver and it was level behind the F250 so I knew something would have to give. To make a long story shorter, while the F350 couldn't even back under the overhang with the RV setting level, once I got it on the hitch it fit perfectly. I haven't had a perfectly level slab to measure from, but best I can tell, the fiver is sitting about 1.5 inches nose high when on the hitch. BUT, I ran it across the CAT scales last week and the axles are within 20# of each other - that's good enough for me.

This is a 13,995 gross trailer. My pin weight is 3120 and rear axle weight is 6420 (rated at 7230) gross weight 20,720. I have an Andersen Ultimate Hitch, short bed and can turn a full 90* and don't come close to the cab.

In the end all my worry about bed height was for nothing. You never know how it is going to fit until you try it.

 

Thanks SouthTX. It's crazy that the math can be so far off yet it fits. Guess I'll go to some RV stores and try some hookups.

 

Can we see some pics?

To overcome 5 inches of difference you would likely have to flip the axles on your trailer as well as install the slightly shorter rear blocks on the truck.

I flipped the axles on my 5th wheel. Dexter makes a kit depending on your axle tube diameter. Here's the one I used. Installed in myself with help from a friend. Took three hours. Just make sure that you have a way to properly support the trailer. Tall jack stands and a solid floor jack will do the trick.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...71-385-00.html

 

Lower the blocks under your truck's rear suspension down 2" with these:
2017 Ford Superduty Fabricated Lift Blocks

Raise the suspension of the trailer by either flipping the axles as previously mentioned or buying a lift kit here: https://www.trailerblocks.com/collec...00lb-axle-kits

Lastly, on many RVs, you can raise your pinbox up in it's wings on the RV. If it's in the stock location, you will often have a couple sets of holes higher up you can go.

This will get you where you need to be. Or, you can go RV shopping which would be much more fun. Yes, you can easily get a new rig that sits level without adjusting much of anything. Mine sits dead level.

 

Well folks, here is an update to the issue raised by this thread. Hopefully my summary will help other new (2017, 2018 etc) buyers with the same problem.


The issue of pairing a 5th wheel with a "modern" truck is becoming more of a definite problem that as a result of inadequate communication and conflicting consumer interests for the auto and RV industries .


The following table lists Ford truck bed rail heights for various years:
2008 - 2010: 54.5"
2011 - 2014: 55.1"
2015 - 2016: 56.0"
2017 - 2018: 59.2"


Older 5ers have overhangs in the 55" range while most of the newer ones fall into the 60" area. There are a few 5ers that have overhangs higher than 60" but you need to search them out. The overhang value is not listed in RV specs so you need to actually level the unit and measure the overhang of a unit you are interested in.


I have spoken to truck and RV dealers and manufacturers. Truck manufacturers concede that trucks are taller primarily due to the look factor. RV dealers generally do not acknowledge there is any problem. RV manufacturers are aware of the issue but solutions have been slow in coming due to engineering limitations resulting from (primarily height) specifications imposed by governmental agencies. Some manufacturers have sought solutions which make their 5th wheels just squeak by without serious solutions such solutions as flipping axles, building sub frames, etc. Some manufacturers now put axles below the springs to start with.


To make a long story short, the "solution" to my problem was solved as follows:


1. Demco Hijacker Autoslide Hitch (DM8550037) installed with under bed mount (DM8551009) and set to lowest height 15 1/2". This hitch was selected not only because it was an autoslide, but because it provided 3 vertical adjustments (which other autoslides did not). Note that the hitch needed to be installed with under bed rails. ISRs would have made the lowest vertical hitch height 1-1/2 higher at the lowest setting. This would have resulted in a nose high configuration.


2. 5er that fits perfectly (or just about level) is a Keystone Sprinter Copper Canyon model M-273FWRET. The overhang on this unit is 65" high at level! Imagine my surprise!


When connected to the truck, the approximate 1-1/2" drop of the bed from pin weight puts the overhang 6-1/2 inches over the side rails in a near perfect level.


I hope this summary and my trials help those of you purchasing a newer truck with bed rails near 60" high. Be prepared to do a lot of searching to get everything to fit. If you already own a 5er and it has 60" or less overhang, be prepared for nose up issues. If you decide to get a replacement 5er to go with your new truck, don't let the RV dealers assure you that whatever 5er you pick will "work." Insist on (or be sure to) hook up and check before signing on the dotted line.


Thanks to all for your help.