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F3 Restoration Has Begun

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  #16  
Old 01-06-2018, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by EffieTrucker View Post
Links to Scotty's bed reconstruction:

The foundation: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16295863

The finished bed floor: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16295864
Wow Scotty That bed look Super Strong. You even double up on the cross members Awsome job. Thatís def what Iím doing. Less the 2 over the humps you had to notch those ?
 
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  #17  
Old 01-06-2018, 09:36 PM
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Thanks, it is definitely over kill but, all I could find in 2 1/2" locally. Yes I had to notch two of the cross members. I posted all that somewhere as well.

Or I can email pics and info if you'd like.
 
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Old 01-06-2018, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Scotty's 52 F3 View Post
Thanks, it is definitely over kill but, all I could find in 2 1/2" locally. Yes I had to notch two of the cross members. I posted all that somewhere as well.

Or I can email pics and info if you'd like.
Scotty I just went thru half of your rebuild Thread If I can do 1/4 of what You did I would be happier then pig i ****. Amazing work I sent you my email If you donít mind I will be sending you HELP direct messages once in a while. 😁
 
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Old 01-06-2018, 10:40 PM
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Thanks for the compliments. I am happy to help if I can. Make sure to keep posting your progress here so others can benefit or contribute as well.

I can save you some time digging through all my posts with direst email as well.
 
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Old 01-23-2018, 08:55 PM
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So I started getting the inside of the cab a little cleaner , grinding down rust and 60 year old Dirt.

Why would ford invent a damn cab that has such deep holes in the corner. They were filled with dirt and Grime.

also is it normal for the tranny to be fully caked with dry dirt. I mean like almost 2 inches thick all around ?


​​​​​​​
 
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:35 PM
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Here's how crusty mine was when I got it.
 
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  #22  
Old 01-23-2018, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Scotty's 52 F3 View Post
Here's how crusty mine was when I got it.
Unbelievable how crustied up these trannyís get
 
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  #23  
Old 01-24-2018, 12:12 PM
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If you look at the front of the shifter housing, you will see the shift rail tunnels have no caps in them like the rear of the tunnel. Gear lube would leak out there

If i was smart enough i would post pictures of a fix i did that i stole from a Studebaker guy.
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 09:17 AM
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LOL, I thought my crashbox is the worst I'll ever see in terms of crud. But your ones exceed it by far.

You want a new rear seal for sure. It is a SKF CR21121, IIRC.

Henry, please elaborate on your shift rail tune up. Is it possible to machine a narrow groove in them and install a small o-ring?
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:16 PM
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I was looking at one of my manuals today, it showed plugs, like coined freeze plugs on the front of 4 sp trans. i did not look at my four speed, i will though.
They should be capped/plugged some how,no?
Greg
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by fish pond View Post
I was looking at one of my manuals today, it showed plugs, like coined freeze plugs on the front of 4 sp trans. i did not look at my four speed, i will though.
They should be capped/plugged some how,no?
Greg
My are fully capped. With mud that is problably older then me
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 04:23 PM
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Mine does not have the front caps. I bought some and installed them. The shift rails promptly popped them out. I stumbled on a fix posted by a Studebaker guy. My "fix" is packed away as my transmission is dissembled for the time being, so by memory we go.

I believe i started with a piece of 1"x 3/8" flat stock. I cut it to completely cover the front bores. I beveled the edges and shaped the whole thing to match the contour of the bores. You dont have to do this, but you must bevel the bottom so the "fix" clears the hogshead when you replace the transmission top. I drilled and countersunk my bore cover to use flathead screws. I then drilled and tapped the web between the bores. I drilled reliefs for the rails on the mating surface. Finally i drilled a small hole in each bore, then using a small bit in a die grinder, i cut a shallow channel from the mouth of the bore to the hole i drilled. This is a relief for any oil that gets in the bore behind the rail. No chance of hydraulic lock. This channel was no longer than 1/2" . i used a needle scaler to pecker up the surface to make it fit with the transmission case. One of the bores has a hole I assume is a vent. I made a plug for that and added a brass elbow below the tower that will act as a vent, yet be hidden by the floorboard.

EDIT. ..1"x 1/4" flat stock
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 07:20 PM
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I have an old project ****** jeep and visit jeep sites. After some thinking, I recall some fixes for leaky shift rails on the T90. Some have filed down the ends of rails so they dont pop the plugs out. Some have bored bigger holes in the ends and used copper pipe plugs that give the rail end some clearance. To prevent oil from forcing plugs out some have cut channels like i described, and i remember someone filing the bottom of the rail flat to evacuate oil.

A few different ways to skin this kitty. Im going with my plate since i've dressed it up to look like it belongs on the transmission top.
 
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Old 01-26-2018, 02:23 AM
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Thank you, Henry, you've listed a bunch of suggestions to go with. I did not expect the shift rails to act up that much.
 
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Old 01-26-2018, 05:53 AM
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With the gears slinging oil any time the pickup is in motion and the shift rails moving in the bores any time a gear is selected , surely oil is going to migrate out. Given how gear oil is designed to cling, over the years a transmission can morph into a shapeless blob of petroleum.
 
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