Best way to store a long block?
#1
Best way to store a long block?
Hello everyone!
I realize I have FAR too many projects started, and not enough time for them all, I also dont have enough engine stands, apparently.
I have a ford 302 long block out of my 91 F150, i put a set of heads on it, bottom end is done, but I wont be getting around to installing it for about a year or so, the way it's looking. Priorities changed, i guess.
So, what's the best way to store a long block? I plan on keeping it on the shop, on one of those engine dollys. I was going to install whatever tinwork i have (oil pan, valve covers, timing cover) but i know i dont have an intake to put on it at the moment.
I was just hoping to get some info from some seasoned vets on what is the "suggested" way to store the engine.
I realize I have FAR too many projects started, and not enough time for them all, I also dont have enough engine stands, apparently.
I have a ford 302 long block out of my 91 F150, i put a set of heads on it, bottom end is done, but I wont be getting around to installing it for about a year or so, the way it's looking. Priorities changed, i guess.
So, what's the best way to store a long block? I plan on keeping it on the shop, on one of those engine dollys. I was going to install whatever tinwork i have (oil pan, valve covers, timing cover) but i know i dont have an intake to put on it at the moment.
I was just hoping to get some info from some seasoned vets on what is the "suggested" way to store the engine.
#2
I don't think there's a hard and fast rule on this.....that's why there's chocolate and vanilla.....
The main thing, as you know, is to keep moisture in the air from getting anywhere near the inside of the engine.
What I do (and have done) is to put a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder. Stuff the plug holes with tape/newspaper or even put the plugs back finger tight. I liberally spray WD-40 on any unpainted surfaces....yes, even in the lifter valley if no intake is on.....and cut a piece of cardboard to fit snugly in there. The same WD-40 sprayed on the valve train, crank, rods, etc, and before you stick the pan on, and spray it on the inside of the pan, valve covers...any tin parts facing the inside of the engine.
Then I wrap the whole shebang with shrink wrap, bag it snugly and tie it off.
All that is, of course, if one isn't going to pay attention to it fer a spell.
If you're going to occasionally turn her over, 86 the WD-40 on internal parts, use the MMO, overfill the oil pan with your choice of oil, stick some lifters, pushrods and rockers on. Don't tighten the rockers --just snug 'em up against the pushrods. I would use the shrink wrap again but leave a hole just large enough to get an oil priming tool in. Your choice on what to use. Then, a coupla times a month, I would prime the engine.
Note* As you know, you need the lifters in for oil pressure to get to the valve train.
The main thing, as you know, is to keep moisture in the air from getting anywhere near the inside of the engine.
What I do (and have done) is to put a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder. Stuff the plug holes with tape/newspaper or even put the plugs back finger tight. I liberally spray WD-40 on any unpainted surfaces....yes, even in the lifter valley if no intake is on.....and cut a piece of cardboard to fit snugly in there. The same WD-40 sprayed on the valve train, crank, rods, etc, and before you stick the pan on, and spray it on the inside of the pan, valve covers...any tin parts facing the inside of the engine.
Then I wrap the whole shebang with shrink wrap, bag it snugly and tie it off.
All that is, of course, if one isn't going to pay attention to it fer a spell.
If you're going to occasionally turn her over, 86 the WD-40 on internal parts, use the MMO, overfill the oil pan with your choice of oil, stick some lifters, pushrods and rockers on. Don't tighten the rockers --just snug 'em up against the pushrods. I would use the shrink wrap again but leave a hole just large enough to get an oil priming tool in. Your choice on what to use. Then, a coupla times a month, I would prime the engine.
Note* As you know, you need the lifters in for oil pressure to get to the valve train.
#3
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Is it a fresh rebuild or a used motor? Fresh rebuild liberally oil everything down with motor oil, WD40 isn't good enough because it evaporates. Either way I suggest wrapping it in a big plastic bag top to bottom to keep dirt out but you don't want it sealed because moisture could build up with changes in humidity.
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