96 F250 351w 5.8. Cranks but no start HELP - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



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96 F250 351w 5.8. Cranks but no start HELP

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Old 01-03-2018, 07:35 PM
Bill Wiggins Bill Wiggins is offline
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96 F250 351w 5.8. Cranks but no start HELP



Quote:
Originally Posted by Momba2
Got it fixed! It ended up being the pick up coil in the distributor. Replaced the whole dist. and cap et cetera.... That, with new plugs, wires, coil, ..... Man, it's running GREAT!

Ok here's my issue and question 😕

If this pickup in the distributor was going bad would it cause truck to miss at idle horribly then get to the point I'm at now with cranking but just won't start. I replaced in tank fuel pump. Also replaced FpR as well as throttle position sensor and I have new filter on way (won't fix problem coz old filter had zero sediment in it).
Originally it was missing super bad one day to point of having to 2 foot it at a red light. I parked it and each time I'd start it (like after FPR or after TPS). it would idle worse and worse then wouldn't idle at all just dies. I had to flutter the pedal like a mad man just to get it to stay running to move it in the yard. until right before I changed fuel pump. Then it would crank fast and act like it wanted to start but just wouldn't fire. Or I could almost hear it trying to run like sht while cranking but if I let off key it wouldn't be running.

Is it hard to change the pick up in the distr?? I can get the module for about 40$.
not sure what else to change I guess plugs n wires but really can't see that being the problem. I've never had wires so bad the vehicle won't start and I've had some crap looking wires on other vehicles. I'm in southern Arizona so things look good under hood isn't like normally things start looking like death under hood so not a surprise when it takes a dump on ya u know lol.

I really thought fuel was problem since I had 3 old pumps in the truck when I bought it lol.

Anyways I'd really appreciate the help here guys. I'm not a novice but don't keep up with all the abbreviations so......
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Old 01-03-2018, 11:04 PM
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khadma khadma is offline
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Did you check for codes?

Chassis grounding issue?

Major air leak after the MAF?
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Old 01-04-2018, 06:50 AM
Bill Wiggins Bill Wiggins is offline
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All grounds appear intact and I didn't see any major leaks near the mass air flow sensor
The check engine light comes on but only after driving a couple miles or so. Sometimes sooner it depends on how long truck sits after light is on as to how far I can go before it lights again.
At any rate idk what the deal is because azone said they couldn't read the codes wrong type of computer idk. Took to a shop and he said had to read codes the old way?? But then said he couldn't pull them so beats the heck out of me.

I'm fairly certain I don't have a fuel problem unless it's injectors? Rather the spark. And reading about the pick up in the distributor causing almost the same problem I was hoping it was something easy to change. Heck all the money I thru at this dam thing another 35bux isn't bad smh
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Old 01-04-2018, 08:10 AM
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When you can not pull codes with the MIL Lamp on (the red one in the cluster) with the OBD1 system it means most of the time the computer (PCM) is bad or the Self-Test plug is bad or its wiring.

But you should try to pull the codes yourself and post back here what you get.
You can get a digital read-out code reader for under $30.00 and most auto-part stores or at Amazon.


At Amazon:
Amazon Amazon

/
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Old 01-04-2018, 01:32 PM
Bill Wiggins Bill Wiggins is offline
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I wish I could find the frikin plug and see what reader I need. I didn't see a plug in cab under dash anywhere and according to the azone genius nothing under the hood he seen before so it must be an older kind?? The guy said there were different ones in 96 coz they were changing over to newer computer? Just want to make sure I get the right reader ya know. Anyone have pics of where they are n what they look like ???
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Old 01-04-2018, 01:34 PM
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OBD1 plug is under the hood, driver's side, near the hood hinge.
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Old 01-04-2018, 03:11 PM
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I told you what reader you need above and here is a photo of the location.
Disregard the shorting of pin #2 to pin #6 in the photo as that is for fuel pump circuit testing. But that is the plug you plug the code reader above into.
The plug also plugs into the EEC Test holder above for storage so you have pull both plugs out of the holder and plug both plugs into the code reader.


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Old 01-26-2018, 07:07 PM
Bill Wiggins Bill Wiggins is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
I told you what reader you need above and here is a photo of the location.
Disregard the shorting of pin #2 to pin #6 in the photo as that is for fuel pump circuit testing. But that is the plug you plug the code reader above into.
The plug also plugs into the EEC Test holder above for storage so you have pull both plugs out of the holder and plug both plugs into the code reader.


/
Well that figgers the one plug was flipped under the lip of the body that's the one you have the jumper wire in.
Is that where the tester goes or is it the other plug beside it looks like it's plugged into some kind of tiny box or relay or is that just a holder?
ALSO UPDATE
I put the pick up coil on new plugs wires cap rotor fuel pressure reg and TPS
It's acting like it's not getting fuel STILL!!!!
with key on I push the valve stem on the RH fuel rail and gas sprays out. Cranks for days not even trying to start.
I sprayed wd40 in the throttle body and it acted like it wanted to start just for a split second so now I'm back to what the frik is the problem again
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Old 01-26-2018, 07:51 PM
Bill Wiggins Bill Wiggins is offline
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I'm thinking it won't have a code now because I've had battery unhooked to change fuel pump and filter the dang thing won't start at all now to drive for check engine light to come back on so idk if that's actually an option now.
I pulled the external coil wire off center of the cap and plugged a old plug into it and it's firing rapidly. So i put it back on and pulled the wire off the LH r at of engine no8 iirc and didn't the same and it's firing but not rapidly like the coil wire did but it's about right for the rotor to be coming around ya know?
Is there something that controls the injectors like it's shutting fuel off or something. Anyhow idk I'm about to throw a match on it and walk away so I'm waiting for ideas from the great ford gurus lol
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Old 01-28-2018, 12:41 AM
Bill Wiggins Bill Wiggins is offline
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Bump bump
Going to get tester
Any theories to what it is?
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Old 01-28-2018, 07:41 PM
Bill Wiggins Bill Wiggins is offline
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Scanner should be here by Friday via amazon.
Was going to get the fuel pressure tester they have for 20$ but not sure it has right fitting ?.?
So is there a reason u can't use a tire gauge on it to get at least an idea? Other than fuel spraying all over u lol 😂
I picked up a can of starting fluid today has a harder spray than wd can to see if it tries to run least I know if it's a fuel problem right?

It just boggles my mind this thing ran great with a little hesitation then went to very rough idle to doa
Where is the box that controls the injectors? Is that the ecm (main computer) or a different one?
I just don't know Possible to have like bad cap n rotor making hesitant and another issue caused it to just die? Idk just kicking ideas round hoping I can try something while waiting on the tester to arrive
Thanks again for the help
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:13 PM
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This one works for me:
Amazon Amazon

Some tire gauges work and other do not as they seem to have a problem depressing the valve core at the test point.

Yes the PCM Computer grounds the injectors to fire them. Ecm was an old name used before 1990 for the Computer.
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Old 01-29-2018, 01:15 AM
Bill Wiggins Bill Wiggins is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
This one works for me:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5630-Fuel...ssure+test+kit

Some tire gauges work and other do not as they seem to have a problem depressing the valve core at the test point.

Yes the PCM Computer grounds the injectors to fire them. Ecm was an old name used before 1990 for the Computer.
The pcm wouldn't slowly go out tho would it?
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:49 AM
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I have not read about any 1996 and newer F-series Caps in the PCM going bad yet but I have seen and read about the 1993 and older PCM computers with bad and leaking Caps.
My 1993 F250 had bad and leaking Caps and so did the replacement I bought for it at a salvage yard. So I replaced the Caps in both and both PCM computers then checked out OK after replacement of the Caps and are still on the road.

As the Caps are going bad they can work sometimes and not at other times. If the clock is not running because of a bad Cap in the clock circuit then the Injectors will not fire and the fuel pump will run all the time the key is on with the engine not running.
Other circuit bad Caps can cause other running problems.
Sometime if you leave the key on for a while then a Cap will start working again and you can start the engine and then you can drive all day without any problems.
Yes Caps can slowly go out.
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Old 01-29-2018, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Wiggins View Post
I'm waiting for ideas from the great ford gurus lol
You have the best of the best working with you. Hold what you got.
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