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300 Intake / Exhaust Gasket ?

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Old 12-31-2017, 07:15 PM
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300 Intake / Exhaust Gasket ?

Is the Mr Gasket 260 still the best for my 300 street motor with Offy Dual Port Intake and Ford HD Exhaust manifold? Does Fel Pro make a good gasket for this combo?
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Old 12-31-2017, 10:11 PM
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Is the Mr Gasket 260 still the best for my 300 street motor with Offy Dual Port Intake and Ford HD Exhaust manifold? Does Fel Pro make a good gasket for this combo?
I prefer the Remflex gasket.
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Old 01-01-2018, 09:46 AM
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I've never had an issue with the Mr Gasket, at least not one that wasn't self-inflicted.
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Old 01-01-2018, 01:12 PM
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fordman75 -- Do you have a part number for that gasket?
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Old 01-01-2018, 01:50 PM
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I've never had an issue with the Mr Gasket, at least not one that wasn't self-inflicted.

As long as you can actually get a 240/300 gasket and not the cheby 292 gasket.




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fordman75 -- Do you have a part number for that gasket?
It's a Remflex part # 3005.

FORD Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket
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Old 01-02-2018, 11:42 AM
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As long as you can actually get a 240/300 gasket and not the cheby 292 gasket.



This.
I have two 292 gaskets sitting my garage that I have no idea what to do with. Finally gave up trying to get one and went with the Remflex.

I believe Holley now owns Mr. Gasket (so if you order from them you'll be okay), but the last bits of stock from the actual company were all mismatched and mislabeled, so if you order from Summit, you might not get the right thing.
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Old 01-04-2018, 01:31 AM
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AbandonedBronco --- I have a 1992 EFI 300 head. Have no In/Ex studs. Are the studs I need (14) double end 3/8x24x1" & 3/8x16x5/8" & 2-21/8" OAL? Where is a good place to get them? What about hardened washers?
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Old 01-04-2018, 11:20 AM
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AbandonedBronco --- I have a 1992 EFI 300 head. Have no In/Ex studs. Are the studs I need (14) double end 3/8x24x1" & 3/8x16x5/8" & 2-21/8" OAL? Where is a good place to get them? What about hardened washers?
You don't need hardened washers. Run of the mill whatever is harder than the manifolds.

The threads in the head are normal 3/8-16 NC. I like to use "heavy" hex nuts (also from McMaster) and internal star lock washers (from whoever on eBay is selling a lot of them cheaply).

I make my own studs out of grade-8 threaded rod from McMaster-Carr so I can't comment on whether the lengths and quantities you've suggested are appropriate. You really don't need fine thread. The manifolds were originally held on with coarse thread bolts threaded directly into the head and torqued to a reasonable value (which I don't recall at this time) below their yield point. Fine thread on the nut side is overkill and increases cost and decreases serviceability (easier to cross thread, harder to remove after corrosion and heat have done their thing. Unless you are using jamb nuts you will strip the head out or stretch the stud before you can make full use of the additional clamping force of fine threads. You will get extra clamping force from the fine threads at the same torque (about 24/16ths of what you'd get using 3/8-16 threads) but it isn't necessary IMO.

I like to make the studs that match up to holes in the exhaust manifolds about 3/16 longer than the rest and the rear intake stud another 3/16 longer than that. That lets you position the manifolds and gaskets using only the holes and makes installation much easier.

Except for the stud that holds the alternator bracket all the OEM bolts are the same length. If I were buying off the shelf studs I would buy studs that are 3/8 longer than the threaded length of those bolts plus the height of the nut I intend to use and run a bottoming tap into the head before install.
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Old 01-04-2018, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by old28 View Post
AbandonedBronco --- I have a 1992 EFI 300 head. Have no In/Ex studs. Are the studs I need (14) double end 3/8x24x1" & 3/8x16x5/8" & 2-21/8" OAL? Where is a good place to get them? What about hardened washers?
With the EFI head, there are 16 holes and you should be able to use the same sized stud in all of them. I used either 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" length (can't remember exactly) studs and they're great. Just be sure to get Grade 8 or better. I've had one or two generic "automotive grade" ones I bought from somewhere like Ace Hardware snap on me. I bought mine at a local industrial hardware store, so I'm not sure where to source them online. McMaster Carr is probably your best bet. 3/8" course thread sounds about right for the size (on both ends).

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Originally Posted by arse_sidewards View Post
You don't need hardened washers. Run of the mill whatever is harder than the manifolds.
I agree with most all you posted except for this. I've had many washers curl on my manifolds under normal torque and conditions (even multiple stacked washers), and have had to replace them. The manifolds are cast iron, so they're plenty hard.

I eventually went with grade 8 thick washers from here and have been very happy with them.

https://www.nutty.com/EXTRA-THICK-Gr...ers_c_427.html



I got a mix of the 9/16" and 1/2" washers and pick and mixed as I installed them. The 1/2" give a nice wide area of clamping force, but don't fit on all of the studs (especially the ones underneath) due to the area available.

Quote:
I like to make the studs that match up to holes in the exhaust manifolds about 3/16 longer than the rest and the rear intake stud another 3/16 longer than that. That lets you position the manifolds and gaskets using only the holes and makes installation much easier.
Not sure why you'd need them to be longer than the others for that. Any stud that extends far enough to put a nut on the end is going to let you hang the manifolds off of them.

Quote:
Run a bottoming tap into the head before install.
Definitely. It's well worth it to clean out all the threads. Even on my rebuilt head (which was cleaned and magnafluxed), all of the studs went in different depths. After I cleaned them all out with a tap, all of the threads bottomed out like they should.


The stock torque setting is 20 - 25 ft/lbs. If you go with the Remflex, I think they call for something like 18 ft/lbs (their package should say).

Start in the center and work your way outward.

This is for the carb'd head, but the EFI should be mostly the same, since the 3 extra bolt holes are simply for hanging the manifolds off of for alignment.

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Old 01-04-2018, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco View Post

I agree with most all you posted except for this. I've had many washers curl on my manifolds under normal torque and conditions (even multiple stacked washers), and have had to replace them. The manifolds are cast iron, so they're plenty hard.


Not sure why you'd need them to be longer than the others for that. Any stud that extends far enough to put a nut on the end is going to let you hang the manifolds off of them.
I have whatever grade 2 thick washers I bought online and they have been reused a few times. I'd go for a thick washer over a normal washer in a higher grade.

Making one stud longer makes it easier to get it aligned. You plop it on the studs and swing it into position. If you're using EFI manifolds with RTV on the exhaust being able to apply RTV then precisely hang the manifolds then push them in without any fiddling around or smearing the RTV is very nice.
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Old 01-04-2018, 05:55 PM
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AbandonedBronco -- ares_sidewards ---- Thanks for all the information, it makes it a little more clear.
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Old 01-04-2018, 08:34 PM
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Does anyone out there know the name of the company in Texas that is making reproductions of the HD Exhaust manifolds used on Ford 600 trucks. None listed on EBay at this time.
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Old 01-04-2018, 09:08 PM
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Does anyone out there know the name of the company in Texas that is making reproductions of the HD Exhaust manifolds used on Ford 600 trucks. None listed on EBay at this time.
Stevens is the name of the company.
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Old 01-04-2018, 11:30 PM
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**** _sidewards -- thanks, looked them up on net and will call tomorrow. The price was around $275 last I saw. Hedman Headers run about $245 but not really the look I want. May have to look at set of EFI dual manifolds.
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Old 01-05-2018, 08:10 AM
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**** _sidewards -- thanks, looked them up on net and will call tomorrow. The price was around $275 last I saw. Hedman Headers run about $245 but not really the look I want. May have to look at set of EFI dual manifolds.
EFI manifolds are nice and a heck of a lot lighter. The MAF equipped trucks (96 and a few state specific 95s) have oxygen sensor bungs in the manifolds if that's of interest to you.

The general consensus on Fordsixperformance is that as long as you have something better than the log manifold used on most carb'd applications what you have really won't matter until you've got the head ported and polished for better flow (and the valve movement to support to feed it).

I have a Stevens HD manifold that I bought a from them a few years ago for $250. I recall having fitment issues toward the rear when combining it with the EFI lower intake on the EFI head. I never got around to installing it because I was crunched for time and I didn't have a mill to correct the fitment issues at the time (and didn't want to freehand it).
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