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Rear Main Install With Wear Ring, Easiest Way To Install?

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  #1  
Old 12-30-2017, 09:49 PM
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Rear Main Install With Wear Ring, Easiest Way To Install?

While cleaning up my motor for reassembly, I noticed that I have a worn groove in the rear main of my crank shaft.

Fortunately, the new rear main seal includes a wear ring.

I'm a bit torn on the best/easiest way to install it.

Motor is out of the truck, so I have space for activities. Do I need the expensive tool? I was sort of thinking I could get the wear ring started GENTLY with a mallet, and maybe pull it the rest of the way on with the flywheel?

Do I need to use anything like a retaining compound on the ring?

Thank you!




Ouch.
 
  #2  
Old 12-31-2017, 06:16 AM
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I seem to recall that I used the ring gear spacer and some bolts....draw it on with that. But, that was a LONG time ago.
 
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Old 12-31-2017, 10:51 AM
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Good to know, I've seen a couple ideas on using the fly wheel or various other parts that could be pulled down to the back of the motor.
 
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Old 12-31-2017, 11:03 AM
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The ONLY right way is to use the proper tool. Trust me. Also, as per the instructions that should have come with it: A.) yes, you need to use retaining compound. The same stuff as used on injector cups will work. Also, use the International/Ford grey "super goop" on the aluminum flange to the block surface.
B.) Also,as per instructions, NEVER remove the wear ring from the seal. It should have come pre-assembled in the package, with the ring already inside the rubber seal. Leave it that way. If you already took it apart, get a new one.

This is form my Clutch and related items thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-and-tips.html

Rear Main Seal w/ wear ring:
$47.88 at local dealer - again price matched w/ Tousley (list-34%, or cost+10%)
Ford Part# F4TZ-6701-A
It will come with an large re-sealable tube of the International grey "goop" RTV- way more then you need for the seal. Yay, free grey goop....
Sleeve Retaining Compound:
Same as what would be used on injector cups. This goes on the inside bore the wear sleeve, to keep it from rotating on the crank in operation.
I used green Permatex 640, which I got from Napa, and had left over from doing my cups. LockTite 640 will work too, I believe. It just has to be Sleeve Retaining Compound, NOT thread locker.
https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/BK_7651149/
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37424.../dp/B0002KKTIG

Rear Main Seal and Wear Sleeve Install Tool:
You WILL need this to install properly. Buy, Borrow, Rent, whatever.

This one is a complete set, including the parts needed to remove an existing wear ring, if the seal has been replaced before: OTC Part# 7835 $313.11 from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...&condition=new

Installer tool only, will not remove an existing/old wear ring:
These guys will also "rent", but its costly, as you only get a 50% refund
Freedom Racing Part# 303-S485
303-S485 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer T94T-6701-AH Alt.
 
  #5  
Old 12-31-2017, 12:05 PM
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Good to know. A little bit more reading here and there and I decided to get the tooling on the way. I own two 7.3s now, and as a mechanic I can just write the expenses off my taxes.

Ouch, but I'm going to keep leaning on the "this is a good idea in the long run" concept.
 
  #6  
Old 12-31-2017, 12:23 PM
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You can probably make some of it back, by renting out the tool to other members who may only need it once.
 
  #7  
Old 12-31-2017, 12:43 PM
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The tool isnt really neceasary but its nice to have. I have never used the tool and ive done a few of them, i just use the old wear ring and cut half ways the ring so it wont get stuck and use a piece of 2x4 and strike it with the hammer, has worked great and never had a failure.
 
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Old 12-31-2017, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
The tool isnt really neceasary but its nice to have. I have never used the tool and ive done a few of them, i just use the old wear ring and cut half ways the ring so it wont get stuck and use a piece of 2x4 and strike it with the hammer, has worked great and never had a failure.
1.) That assumes you had an old wear ring. Mine did not, and apparently neither did Quick's. It will only have one if its been replaced before.

2.) If it does already have one, how do you remove it without the tool and without damaging the crank?

3.) Why take the chance? Getting it wrong and having a leak means a LOT of work to pull the trans and do it again, along with the chance of a ruined oik-soaked clutch.
 
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