88' 4.9 I-6 parked 13 years ago, worth saving? - Page 8 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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88' 4.9 I-6 parked 13 years ago, worth saving?

 
  #106  
Old 01-23-2019, 01:31 PM
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I'm border state. Md was included in the union back then because it had too. DC was south of the mason Dixon line. Tough to have the northern capital in the heart of dixe
I'm also a property owner in Nc, so I'm both.
 
  #107  
Old 01-25-2019, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by skuzzybucket View Post
I'm border state. Md was included in the union back then because it had too. DC was south of the mason Dixon line. Tough to have the northern capital in the heart of dixe
I'm also a property owner in Nc, so I'm both.
The things they don't teach you in school anymore, eh?

Ok, thats enough from me: back to yellercat's truck
 
  #108  
Old 01-27-2019, 06:23 PM
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Must be tough Skuzzy, not knowing which flag to fly. On the other hand, gives you a lot of flexibility !
Putting some misc. frame rail and underbelly pics up for the record. You guys can see where some of those fuel line parts go and get a sight of the current condition of the truck's belly. Lot of surface type rust. My method is to use one of the 'rust converter' type products after a light wire brushing. Getting good results with a Permatex product now, there are several brands and seems like I never get the same kind twice, maybe I can find this brand again. Like the brush on and haven't tried any of the spray types. It goes on one color and changes as it dries. Highly recommend, here's the drum I did today.
The biggest pain that is anticipated is breaking some of these rusted nuts off. Truck was idle for 14 years so there are some boogers. Still haven't got the alternator lower loose. and the more exposed areas are considerable worse. Like the front suspension. Oh well.


whole hub looked like the center portion this AM

Some of the rusted nuts, there are lots. Maybe have to get that torch set before this is over....

High pressure pump. The fuel filter goes forward or to the right in this pic.

Where the tank valve or switching valve goes.

Driver side rail with the lines detached and hanging.

Just like the other side appearance wise. Wondering about just dropping the front suspension and power steering and replacing as a whole. Is that possible or adviseable??

Brake lines seem are somehow unique with the end fitting at the calipers. Not seen this before.
 
  #109  
Old 01-28-2019, 07:26 AM
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Ok, your missing this part in the fuel lines where the 4 lines come to an end and go to 2 lines
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-M...8RV:rk:10:pf:0

Best way to do the brake line is this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-93-For...gOz:rk:29:pf:0
They don't have a kit for 87-91, but all you have to do is put a coupler in where the abs modual goes under the driver's seat
Make sure to ordet 3 new rubber lines too, and replace the copper washers on the calipers in the front when you replace the rubber lines
 
  #110  
Old 01-28-2019, 07:31 AM
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Brake line in front is

supposed to come out like this in the front
 
  #111  
Old 01-28-2019, 08:07 AM
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Yep, yep, got the fuel selector valve, had already removed it and tried to repair, but no go. New one on the bench.
Appreciate the link for the lines, have bent a few, but for the money and time that looks the way to go.
Going to rebuild the back brakes.
Wondering about that anti lock piece on the frame rail. You think it will be ok to use after sitting, an not at all familiar with them.....Thought it was some kind of a slave cylinder at first. Any suggestion on how to deal with it?
The master is nasty and not sure about the power booster, are they long lived or will it be due for replacement too??
Appreciate the reply!

passenger side whats it take to get the spring and shock in??
 
  #112  
Old 01-28-2019, 09:44 AM
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The rabs modal is not a problem if it bleeds
the vacuum booster should be fine, They are pretty tough. They either work, or leak vaccum, or lock up the front brakes. Pretty easy to diagnosis

Shock is as easy as unbolt bottom and top, squeeze out, and back in.
No reason to replace the spring unless it's cracked.
I replaced the springs later in that 4x2 truck because I upped the GVW

Ball joints can be done at this point if needed, I can post pics if you want, I did that one, and a f 250 recently/ I'd do sway bar bushings and links too.
If you want, Pm me, I can get you a list together of part numbers you need to go through the whole front end off rockauto
 
  #113  
Old 01-28-2019, 09:46 AM
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Silly question
Where are your inner fenders?
 
  #114  
Old 01-28-2019, 11:01 AM
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So if I can bleed the RABS it will be ok? May change the master and lines, do the rear brakes and emergency brake and clean out the RABS. That should get the system clean and functional.
Have the coils and shocks, just thought I would clean it up and install before I tackle the entire front suspension; will want to address the ball joints then if needed. Maybe do the trailing arms and coils, shocks first,

inside rail by side tank - before cleanup and new tanks install

current engine - about ready to put injectors in and work back thru fuel system
then rest of front suspension.
I burned the inner fenders ! They were permanently stained from the vermin infestation. got a new pair on the shelf. Probably be a while before they come down and get put on...LOL
 
  #115  
Old 01-28-2019, 11:14 AM
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any thought on the best replacement alternator?
(Assuming this one will finally come off)
Is this the internal regulator type?
 
  #116  
Old 01-28-2019, 11:56 AM
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back under left

back under right, tanks out, bed off
 
  #117  
Old 01-28-2019, 04:28 PM
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Alternator. Well, I'll have to dig it out, but I'd go with a 3g on there, the 2g on these trucks are a bad deal when they get older, and do catch fire.
You put a Taurus wagon 95 amp 3g in there. I will get the kit info you buy with the cables and fuse, and link you to the article I wrote

On the brake cables, just assume they are junk, and replace them from the drums to the spot on the frame where they hook to the cables to the front there by the outside of the frame driver s side. Cheap insurance when you need the brake
Replace those wheel cylinders in the drums now too while your in there, with a new hardware kit for the shoes
 
  #118  
Old 01-28-2019, 04:45 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ator-help.html
I used to be dustybumpers. The install is around page 3. I see photobucket whacked some pictures, I'll have to replace them

I'm also going to have to work on the kit with the fuse and wire, The original guy is gone, and the other guy is on facebook, and I don't have an account
 
  #119  
Old 01-29-2019, 08:08 AM
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Have the ball joints and pivot axle bushes from the 95' that weren't installed and see they will fit this truck. May go ahead with redoing the front suspension before restart, along with the brakes. Thinking access will never be better.
On the alternator, seems like minor? rewiring for the 3g upgrade? Could you summarize the whole process??? If this bracket which also had the smog pump below breaks when the alternator comes off; is there a simple, alternator only bracket that will work? or, is it easy to fabricate a replacement? Not hopeful that this alternator will come off cleanly and would like to simplify it if possible. The smog pump is deleted, so there is the belt length issue also.

roger on the brake cables and cylinders. checking the front calipers and may change them out also.
front shocks came out easily, slap wore out too ! no surprise , this ole' girl was pretty used up for the regular maintenance and just let out to pasture...……….. no worries

Thanks for the alternator link too.
 
  #120  
Old 01-29-2019, 05:12 PM
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Ball joints are the same, only different ones are the stamped axle ones, you don't have those Thank god
Bushings are the same. Check your tie rod ends while everything is hooked up, or just replace them, because they have to come off anyway to do the ball joints
While your under the front, look at the power steering cooling line that goes along under the oil pan in the frame. They like to rust out, and blow at inopportune times

The 3 g is east, hot wire from solenoid to fuse to alternator.
original trigger wire out of harness to alternator, rest to alternator. Nick named one wire. I'm sure you've heard that mentioned before

I'll work on that supplier, and the contaminated pictures

We have to run smog here, so Not sure on that

Smog pump plays a roll, leans out exhaust mixture at heads and at cat during certain throttle positions, so in one way helps with fuel economy
Not sure if taken out, you may have to put an idler pully in to make the belt not hit before it gets to the alternator. Never crossed that bridge.


On the alternator bracket, just pull the whole thing off, and set it on the work bench so you can have at it
I use Fluid Film to soak out my rust problems
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjJgevcjpTgAhWIicgKHZ7ZB-UYABAaGgJxdQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESEeD2qfHt fRMLa2r2GgZQmrPF&sig=AOD64_1rJCpArHprNrgKiHfU9xnia 6qKjg&ctype=46&q=&ved=0ahUKEwjRtePcjpTgAhUsn-AKHU7wDXoQ9aACCEY&adurl=
 

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