88' 4.9 I-6 parked 13 years ago, worth saving? - Page 3 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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88' 4.9 I-6 parked 13 years ago, worth saving?

 
  #31  
Old 12-31-2017, 08:14 AM
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You asked earlier, and I don't think anyone addressed it, regarding the piston rings; I'd be temped to shoot a bit of PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil in the spark plug holes and let it set while you do your other stuff. I'd also plan to crank it a bit, with the plugs out prior to starting, both to clear the oil from the cylinder bores, and prime the oil passages, lube valve train, etc.
 
  #32  
Old 12-31-2017, 09:42 AM
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Eric, was thinking about using auto transmission fluid as i've had good success with it in the past regarding the rings. But speaking of PB, sprayed a side mirror assbly with it one time and, as part of it was plastic, it fell off! That is some strong stuff.
Guessing the AT fluid won't hurt anything in combustion chambers then.
What happens to the fuel in the lines between pumps and injectors usually?
Would it be unusual for it to clog or block fuel flow when left to evaporate?
 
  #33  
Old 12-31-2017, 09:51 AM
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The ATF is likely a very good solution. If you are concerned with the lines, you could purge them once you get the fuel system working. They have quick connects near the rear of the valve cover. On that subject, you may want to arm yourself with a couple of tools for those fittings, you can make them as you go, out of PVC & such, but they aren't prohibitively expensive. One thing to remember, they won't release when the system is pressurized, & the easiest way to depressurize is to crank it with the fuel pump relay pulled.
 
  #34  
Old 12-31-2017, 10:13 AM
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Not familiar with the fuel line disconnects so will need the tools. thnx.

Really wondering now how bad the wiring is in the bay. It was covered so badly, could not even see what is there. Hoses too, some may be totally gone. Maybe need to get the under hood harness if its really bad.

Is there a preferred manual for this 1988 F100? Thinking that we will need to refer to ALOT of photos as attempts to 'recreate' progress.
So much to learn.
 
  #35  
Old 12-31-2017, 06:52 PM
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as she sat



worse than it looks - LOL



Condos were for lease here
 
  #36  
Old 12-31-2017, 06:59 PM
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Looks like it'll take two rounds to get to the bottom of this...

Probably get the blower after it tomorrow after I tape a few of the openings up

There is more evidence of some wiring after i dug a little, hoses must be tastee cause they were devoured in a few places

The lacquer odor was heavy, and front tank had a do not use tag and leaked, confirming tanks and pumps etc.

Fun stuff. Like the overall stance and body style, so not discouraged.
Thanks again for all the input guys!

Some of those missing parts are secured, tensioner, air pipe to intake.
Still wonder which manual to find, are shop type manuals better than the common ones?
 

Last edited by yellercat; 12-31-2017 at 07:06 PM. Reason: Add info
  #37  
Old 12-31-2017, 07:00 PM
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That truck will clean up very nice. But you should probably find all the "you pull it" salvage yards within 40 miles and start collecting parts...
I had a 1988 F150 with the 4.9 and t18 four speed. That is an excellent combination. I reached 275,000 miles before a tree fell on it without major problems.
 
  #38  
Old 12-31-2017, 07:05 PM
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Should be a challenge. If you don't have the intake tube Grand Tex still had a few last time I checked. http://stores.ebay.com/Grand-Tex-Auto-Parts?_rdc=1
 
  #39  
Old 12-31-2017, 07:15 PM
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Had that thought too terry! There are so many small items to find. Truck had a little vandelism and owner got it out when he noticed, could have been much worse, part of why i jumped on it. Appreciate about the combo of engine and trans, another big attraction for me, not many come up inexpensively as they are good trucks, makes it worth the initial unpleasantness at first. Paid less than my F-1 for it and that was 30 years ago, so pretty happy. Of course will probably spend as much getting it right as what it cost. But thats ok too. Thanks for the reply, with you on it cleaning up good.

Hey Eric, i think the hardest part is this initial cleanup, phew ! Mask and gloves for sure.
 
  #40  
Old 01-02-2018, 11:21 PM
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Trucks in the shop, and a glad this is the earlier, and hopefully simpler fuel injection system from 1988 as it is all new to me. Think I understand the fuel delivery aspect of the system. And the air requirement. My next question is what is the basic controlling part of the fuel injection. Or, what has to be established to get the engine to run. With all of the wiring carnage , want to focus on starting the engine initially. Is there a go to source for an early engine wiring harness? Or, should I trace from the injectors back to their source. Some of them are likely affected. Will try to get some more pics up soon of the engine bay after more cleaning. Guess I should get a better grasp of the early FI systems fundamentals. Guess the computer controlled timing and feedback monitoring is key? Seems like there is some gap in my knowledge bringing it all together. Suggestion or links and any explanation appreciated.
 
  #41  
Old 01-03-2018, 05:56 AM
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My understanding of it, I was where you are were a few years ago, and still learning; VERY basically, It feed fuel by pulsing the injectors. How rich / lean controlled by how long the injector is pulsed. Usually, the injectors are fired in banks, the fuel just lays on the valves of the up coming intake valves waiting for it to open. 2 modes, open loop, the computer has pre-written fuel curves for idle, warming up, etc. then once it is up to temperature, it goes into closed loop, relying in the sensors, particularly the o2 sensors to keep the mixture as proper as possible.
 
  #42  
Old 01-03-2018, 07:05 AM
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Thats what I need now, Eric, basic. Not quite so overwhelmed after reading a troubleshooting guide that I searched. It is a far cry from old school carbureted for sure! Fun learning new material. Looking for more sources of basic info to read, the board here is a very good start.
Seems like the handful of sensing components properly wired and working along with the various vacuum actuated controls are in charge of running the engine, as opposed to, all of the mechanical bits in a traditional carbureted engine.
Should I pull the plenum to check for foriegn material before firing this engine. If so, is there an easy way to clean the exterion, and is it a gasketed or a milled surface?The inlet to the water pump has been open as has the radiator top and bottom, so thinking to pull the pump and change thermostat and flush radiator and engine.Any suggestion on the best manual to secure for reference? Some good pics would be a world of help with so many chewed wires and hoses, lol.
Thanks for the continued advise !
 
  #43  
Old 01-03-2018, 07:33 AM
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No need to pull the plenum, the throttle body is closed. no one can get through there.
That don't mean no one ate up the wires or vacuum lines in there. you can take a mirror and look in there and have a look after you usw a vacuum cleqaner hose to suck all the crap out of the space in there
 
  #44  
Old 01-03-2018, 07:40 AM
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Roger that Skuzz, been single digits here, but that is my next plan of attack, the shop vac.
Removing the battery shelf and resivoirs to get to botton of the front crap then chipping the low areas in the rear. Who would think that rat **** can petrify? Saw the dog with some in his mouth, watching for the results.
Will get some close ups of engine when its 'presentable' or close to it.
 
  #45  
Old 01-03-2018, 07:41 AM
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I suppose hemming's or chilton's, I've never had a hard copy manual for the trucks. that used to be my first stop, still have a BMW-E34 manual. I rely mostly on Google and YOU-tube, with fairly amazing results. Sometimes they talk me out of it, like my sons PT cruiser timing belt, after watching it done a few times we just sent it to the shop, money well spent. Anyhow I googled up some wiring diagrams: https://www.google.com/search?q=1988...w=1024&bih=488
 

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