88' 4.9 I-6 parked 13 years ago, worth saving? - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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88' 4.9 I-6 parked 13 years ago, worth saving?

 
  #16  
Old 12-30-2017, 10:25 AM
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Old 12-30-2017, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by yellercat View Post
What will the fuel injection system require to resurrect ?
I would change the oil/filter, fuel filter, battery.

You could pump out the old fuel, put 2 gal in each tank, fire her up. (2 tanks?)

A 1988 is liable to have fuel system issues by now, but you might get lucky.

You may need a tune up, air cleaner, plugs, wires, dizzy cap & rotor.
(You will need to pull the plugs and lubricate the cylinders before you spin it over anyway)

Vacuum lines will most likely need work. EGR-Valve may be stuck partially open.

I would eventually change the belt, hoses & thermostat, fresh antifreeze.

I wouldn't dump any additives into the tanks, that might loosen up the crap stuck to the tanks and shove it into your pumps, valve, filter & injectors.
 
  #18  
Old 12-30-2017, 10:49 AM
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On a much less technical slant, if it sat in a barn for any length of time, I'd be on the lookout for mice. They nibble the wiring and feel the air cleaner box and heating system make lovely apartments.
 
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Old 12-30-2017, 10:50 AM
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This system has a 2 pump system
low pressure lift pump in the tank, high pressure pump in the rail
A FDM (fuel delivery modual) is tieing it together
The purpose of the modual is to return the fuel back to the tank it came from
They fail when they sit
Here is one on EBAY
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1997-Fo...item2f04c80a95



Here is one I took apart
 
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Old 12-30-2017, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Ford Breakdown View Post
On a much less technical slant, if it sat in a barn for any length of time, I'd be on the lookout for mice. They nibble the wiring and feel the air cleaner box and heating system make lovely apartments.
I agree
Before turning the key to start, be sure to open the air cleaner, and the tubes to make sure no nests are in there. It would suck them right in the motor if you didn't
 
  #21  
Old 12-30-2017, 12:52 PM
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Oh man - you guys don't know how right you are!

Wasn't just in a barn, it was in a FEED Building. We are talking Rat City. Massive nesting in the bay, didn't even pull it out without a mask. Comical really. So, wiring chewed big time. Also under hood, radiator hose, belts missing, radiator cap off and dry, a mess. Tensioner removed to steal belts, but still there. But,the Brake master did has fluid in it.
So of course, i bot it.
It has original smog pump and canisters, looks like Californy car. Is there a problem deleting these items? Or would that mean plugging the head? Unsure how that system works...
Transmission is a borg warner, so guessing the T type. Looks to be a thorough job and it was driven some time after it was changed from auto.
Rest of truck appears acceptable for my use, but of course there will be surprises.
It will need everything already mentioned and then some more.There are a few cosmetic items lacking also, and some slight rust but not major from what i saw underneath. Maybe get it home and see what all we are looking at.No beauty queen, but she has good bones. This will nearly be a restoration in some respects.
Know i am forgetting something, so will post back to follow up in a bit. You
 
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Old 12-30-2017, 01:58 PM
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Sounds like a challenge, the smog pump can be deleted, but the cat converter won't work properly. The is also the issue of the belt, short belts don't seem to work that well, & aftermarket filler pulleys seem to be of poor quality, most are going with gut the pump and use it as a pulley. The head is a standard thread of some sort, Allen head plugs with lots of high temp sealer is one way to go.
 
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:24 PM
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Thanks , Eric. When you say cat converter won' t work properly, not sure what you mean?
Isn't that in the exhaust system? Is an alternate exhaust a possible solution?
Remembering that we are not now concerned with California regulations.
The belts are another question. Can see using a gutted pump to retain the geometry of the design, and this may be the best solution in this case. Suprised that the alternatives are low quality, i mean the subsitute pulleys, maybe could fab something up for that.
Looks like some work ahead and problems to be solved, thanks for the ideas and comments!
 
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:31 PM
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Pump puts air into the head and the cat. Leans out the exhaust

If it's working, why remove it? It is all a part of the EFI design in the system
 
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by yellercat View Post
Thanks , Eric. When you say cat converter won' t work properly, not sure what you mean?
Isn't that in the exhaust system? Is an alternate exhaust a possible solution?
Remembering that we are not now concerned with California regulations.
It is just the airflow into the exhaust is needed to make it work properly, like the inducer blower on a modern Gas furnace, if you are familiar with that. Yeah, here in TX and probably lots of other places that is out of emissions testing due to being of age, so technically you can do what you want, no doubt against some law, but the chances of apprehension are extremely low. I'm leaving both of mine as is for now, just more bother than it would be worth, lots of more fun stuff to do. If I were facing the task you have ahead, I might be a bit more flexible.
 
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Old 12-30-2017, 04:04 PM
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Well, am totally open minded to every possibility.
If the system is easily salvagable and works by design, of course it be retained, why swim upstream?
Guess, looking at the mess, it seems easy to scrap whats broke and not needed. We will see.
May be, i see a problem where there is none.
Are these airpump systems long lived, or has this one likely run its course and due for replacement?
Appreciate your input guys!
 
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Old 12-30-2017, 05:14 PM
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FWIW I got a '96 with the 4.9 free of charge (you know how that is) in 2016 that had been sitting since before 2005. After cleaning and chloroxing the interior and cleaning out mice nests from the intake and under the dash I put in two new fuel tanks/pumps and a new fuel filter and then it was reliably starting and running. I did a tune up, changed the oil, flushed the cooling system, replaced the front brake pads and brake lines and its been running fine since, and I've been taking 2 hour drives on the highway to get from college to home occasionally (sometimes running 75+). I'm very impressed with how easily this truck came back to life and how reliable it has been since then. I like these older Ford pickups and think they're definitely worth saving as long as the price is right.
 
  #28  
Old 12-30-2017, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by yellercat View Post
Well, am totally open minded to every possibility.
If the system is easily salvagable and works by design, of course it be retained, why swim upstream?
Guess, looking at the mess, it seems easy to scrap whats broke and not needed.
May be, i see a problem where there is none.
Are these airpump systems long lived, or has this one likely run its course and due for replacement?
Since you may not have the mechanical/electrical history of this truck, there could be many issues that were not addressed before it stopped working.
(Sometimes referred to as parked, pickup trucks are never just parked)

My suggestions on your Emissions/Vacuum systems for your initial effort;

Document what you have going where, photos, drawings, labeling, whatever works for you.

Disconnect all the vacuum lines to the engine Vacuum tree.

Run a new vacuum line from your Fuel Pressure Regulator to the Vacuum Tree.

Run a new vacuum line from your MAP Sensor to the Vacuum Tree.

Cap off all the other unused ports on the Vacuum Tree.

These are the only two vacuum devices needed to start and run your engine.
This will help keep you from chasing your tail due to vacuum leaks.

Also, I would put a solid blocking gasket between your ERG-Valve and the intake, where it attaches.
This will help keep you from chasing your tail due to EGR-Valve leaks.

Also, there may be 2 vacuum lines going to your Throttle Body (TB) from the Fuel Charcoal Canister via the EVAP (splits into 2 lines at the TB) Cap the two ports on the TB where these lines attach.

When it comes time to run your Self-Test to retrieve OBD1 Codes, you will get some EGR & Thermactor Codes (3x & 4x) with these lines disconnected.
But this will not negatively affect your engine.

If your engine is running smooth, and you have the desire, you can start reconnecting (using new vacuum line) the line you disconnected, one at a time.
Test your engine, then do the next line, repeat……


Your emission system is most likely standard equipment, not California, yeah, they get the blame for starting this……
 
  #29  
Old 12-30-2017, 11:17 PM
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Decode your VIN when you get the chance, also check for the Build Date sticker in the Driver Door Jam for the Build Date.

Look for the calibration sticker on the valve cover.

If your Emission Control Information (Vacuum Hose Routing) sticker is still visible, photograph that as well.
 
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Old 12-31-2017, 07:19 AM
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Hey Evan, thanks for that. Very encouraging and i have a gut feeling about this truck for some reason.

Vinny, printing out your suggestions on the vac lines. This seems a good first lesson in the newer vehicle instruction book! My other ford is an F-1, and I generally don't work on the 97' diesel except for the minor stuff.

Thanks for all the tips even if i haven't commented directly, they were noted and logged for reference. Appreciate you all.

Will start a new thread with pics when I get hold of and home with this vixen. Maybe lay out my plan and do some documentation for others reference. Leaning toward a bed removal to start.

Cheers guys and Happy New Year to All!
 

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