I decided to pull the trigger and service the Transmission. I had seem some of the horror stories. I got the good deal on the Scherffers All Trans Supreme. I was contemplating if I should pull the valve body to re toque the bolts under it. I do not know the toque specs for the VB bolts, nuts or the bolts under the VB. I picked up a filter, drained the fluid, dropped the pan and pulled the filter out.
I can see one nut is MIA, and one is about 1/2 way off another one is not even finger tight and all of this is with out checking them! The trans seemed fine before I started changing the fluid!
I have questions, If I pull the VB, are there any *****, springs or dampeners that are going to start moving around and getting lost?
Toque specs?
I was hoping to go fishing in the AM, now I have a truck stuck in my driveway.

SOS
I and going to check the pan for the missing nut and other ugly surprises.

 

I found the missing nut on the magnet.
Some of the pan bolts were too tight.
Two of them ended up will aluminum on them.
That magnet is nice and fuzzy at least there are no bits!
It looks like there r heicoils in my future.
I need to check for clearance around the defective holes.
Someone had repaired the pan. It was welded a bit in the comer.
The flange was not completely flat. It was not leaking before I worked on it.
That magnet is nice and fuzzy at least there are no bits in there, just fuzz!
Any help on the valve body?

 

Here is a Valve Bodies R&R.docx file. Feed Bolts torque to 10-12 ft-lbs.

 

Thanks
That will help some. It seems that you do not need to separate the small VB section from the larger one. Just leave the two short screws in place. That way you can avoid dealing with the check ball in there. Too late for me to discover that.

 

Subscribed for the awesomeness of fixing your own transmission. Any pics of this mysterious "valve body" thing of which you speak?

 

Well the plan was to just r&r the fluid and maybe the filter until I spotted the hardware. Then the plan was to re-torque the three center support screws. Now I am a bit stuck.
There must be an electrical connector above the solenoid assy that I need to remove.
The 4" pipe is in the way so I can't see it reach it. This may be as fare as I get.
FYI other than the three that were falling off, all of the other screws inside were tight.

 

I'm not a transmission expert, but I had a diagram in my archives that might be helpful.

 

I think this is where I get off the bus.
I did fix two threads. There is one more that could use some help, but I would have to remove The trany mount and cross member to get clearance so I will pass. I also cant reach the solenoid connector, so I will pass on the re torque on the center support. Hope it OK. After all a mans got to know his limitations.

 

You know there's a guy that rebuilds these in "bulletproof" fashion out of Arkansas that lets you watch him do the work. It's a shame no one that has watched him do a teardown has chimed in.

I think for a lot of guys anything in the transmission is "magic", and should be avoided at all costs.

Kudos to you for jumping right in with both feet! And you're right, a man has to know his limitations.

 

E4OD | 4R100 | 5R110 Ford Diesel Powerstroke Transmissions

One of the best options for a 4R100 transmission (from what I have heard and read). There are two others as well, JW in California (I think) and a gentlemen in Ohio which the name slips my mind.

 

What's you all running for fluid...reg vs ayn?

 

I just use the Oreilly's stuff. The diesel rebuilders use Schaeffer's All Trans synthetic. I'll probably swap to that once my trans starts to go out and i get it rebuilt.

 

If it was fine prior to beginning, I see no reason why it would not be once reassembled.

The Pan Bolts (as most) have a sequence and torque spec.

In lieu of Heli-Coil - which there is nothing wrong with, so long as the are BELOW the surface.

You may want to use Time-Sert thread repair parts. They come with a countersink and all necessary parts to do a onetime repair. I have no idea what the kit costs. I just have several from when I retired.

Since it's been worked on (Pan) you should check it with a Straight Edge and adjust where necessary before installation.

The Connector you're referring to is for the Solenoid? You shouldn't worry about that at all if it was running beforehand. You can also drop the Solenoid with it attached to give you an inch or two in a tight spot.

I don't know where you are located. But, there are Builder across the Country who specialize in the 4R100.

In addition to those mentioned above, I can personally vouch for A-1 in Atlanta, GA We were sending 5 or so a year to him in 2015.

He builds everything including High-Performance 1,000 HP + builds of the 4R100.

The issue is there aren't many Cases available if you'res can't be refinished within specs.

 

Well I did do a bit of anvil work on the pan. Some of the mounting holes were damaged from over torquing. So far so good it seems to be working OK and not leaking.

My little truck not so much, I replaced the O2 sensor and now its throwing codes and smelling funny. The boat ran OK, but she does not like to start up after you shut her down for about 10 min. The fishing not so good, but you could not ask for better weather!


Thanks guys

 

Is that your boat there on the far right??