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So do you recommend that if the shaft looks good, just replace the standard bearing and seal since I am in there? The ford oem shaft for that side is around $250 + shipping..
That's what I'm going to do this go-round, I can see the wear pattern on my axles, but can't feel or measure any wear. But then again, one axle is only a couple years old, the other about 6 yrs on it, with around 30K on it.
I guess the most critical question right now is, did I order the correct axle shaft for the left side?
Unless the seller ships it out tomorrow, I can still cancel the order,, I think..
Saturday I negotiated a price with a Ebay seller and bought a Ford OEM axle part number
Brand: Ford
MPN NUMBER: F7UZ 4234-BB, YC2Z-4234-CB
“The parts list you posted shows the correct part number for the left axle to be F7UZ-4234-E”
BUT NOW Amazon lists a Dorman axle listing the original part numbers as
E7UZ 4234-E, F7UZ 4234-BB, YC2Z-4234-CB and saya it does not fit my 88 econoline!
You're having the same issue with OD as I have, that's why after doing the math I decided to go to 4.10s. 373 just didn't seem that much change with only 100 rpms. Mine does better taking it out of cruise and downshifting manually if necessary
As far as I am going into this rebuild it is a shame not to go ahead and change the gears out to the 4.10s you recommend but being the first time I have done this it might be better if I just stick with the originals for now. If it all turns out well then I will attempt it later and have some experience.
Would you attempt this with the axle still under the van or would it be much better to pull the axle out from under the van? I really need to put some new springs and shackles under the van but didn't want to spend the money right now. Last year I rebuilt the front end and started to drop the rear axle to replace the leaf spring bushings but it turned out that the springs were not stock and so the bushings I ordered wold not fit. I wound up just putting it back together and new shocks.
This kit is not on the parts list you posted. It is the 2 gears that slide on the cross pin.
There is no kit or gear part number on the list for these gears.
1- E7TZ-4215-A Pinion kit/ 8.8 includes 2 pinion gears with thrust washers??? https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Ford-8-80-Differential-Side-Gear-Kit-E7TZ4215A-For-Various-00-02-F150-E150-/401376857120?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10
The cross pin is not listed on your list either.
1- E7TZ-4211-A Cross Pin ???
I found a set on side gears on Ebay for $27.00 Part # E7TZ-4236-A One of them appears to have just a little surface rust on one edge but I dont think it is a surface or enough to make any difference. They should clean right up. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-RR-AXL...4383.l4275.c10
As far as I am going into this rebuild it is a shame not to go ahead and change the gears out to the 4.10s you recommend but being the first time I have done this it might be better if I just stick with the originals for now. If it all turns out well then I will attempt it later and have some experience.
Would you attempt this with the axle still under the van or would it be much better to pull the axle out from under the van? I really need to put some new springs and shackles under the van but didn't want to spend the money right now. Last year I rebuilt the front end and started to drop the rear axle to replace the leaf spring bushings but it turned out that the springs were not stock and so the bushings I ordered wold not fit. I wound up just putting it back together and new shocks.
As getting the pinion depth set and back lash on the gears is largely a trial and error method, it's easier to pull the whole rearend to do both. As for getting the correct axles, what you need to do to ensure you get the right parts is to pull them first and measure them both before buying axles that you're not sure of. This is what I did before buying my axles from Summit Racing. They list the lengths of the axles they sell so that you're assured of getting the right parts. Pulling the whole rear isn't that bad a job, as it's bolted on under the springs, I did mine by myself. Only thing you need to be certain of is having the van positively supported before doing the job. I've got two sets of jack stands under the springs forward of the rear and another two supporting the rear under the class 3 hitch.
autonationfordwhitebearlake.com online Ford truck parts catalog lists YC2Z-4234-CB left side for your 1988 E150.
MSRP: $341.95 ~ Auto Nations online price: $225.69.
The right side is YC2Z-4234-CA - MSRP: $317.23 ~ Auto Nations online price: $209.37.
Auto Nation (formerly Tousley) Ford in White Bear Lake MN online prices are dealer net cost + 10%
Thanks again NumberDummy.. I ordered the Ford OEM YC2Z-4234-CB axle for the left side from Ebay Saturday and got a message that it was shipped today. $149.99 total so I hope it is new like the guy said it is. I questioned him about it being new because it has the studs already in it. He said it was new in the box. He has 99.2 % positive feedback on 11k items so hopefully it is what he says it is.
As getting the pinion depth set and back lash on the gears is largely a trial and error method, it's easier to pull the whole rearend to do both. As for getting the correct axles, what you need to do to ensure you get the right parts is to pull them first and measure them both before buying axles that you're not sure of. This is what I did before buying my axles from Summit Racing. They list the lengths of the axles they sell so that you're assured of getting the right parts. Pulling the whole rear isn't that bad a job, as it's bolted on under the springs, I did mine by myself. Only thing you need to be certain of is having the van positively supported before doing the job. I've got two sets of jack stands under the springs forward of the rear and another two supporting the rear under the class 3 hitch.
I already ordered the Ford axle so hopefully it is the same length.
Today I ordered the spider gears and the cross pin from a Ford dealer that I have dealt with before. The spider gears come in a kit with all 4 gears, thrust washers, and locking bolt. The kit was $83.00. The cross pin was a little higher then online but still ok at $14.00.
The dealer is 50 miles away so depending on how much they charge me for shipping, I may drive up there and pick the parts up.
You mentioned the differential case might be worn also. I found a new OEM Ford case for $100.00 with free shipping. Surprisingly the ford dealer only wanted $125 plus shipping for it. I haven't ordered it yet because I just hate to let go of another $100.00 but I am into it this far!
That leaves just the right side axle and a ring and pinion set!
Since I already have the Ford axle on the way, I am thinking about the right axle from Motive Gear. they have a line called Ten Factory which carries a 10 year warranty or 100k miles. Summit carries them so I can pick it up after I have removed the original one from the van.
The Ten Factory axles are sold as a performance axle. I read somewhere along the line that some of the performance parts are not designed for street use. Something about the steel they are made of or that the tempering is designed to give a little under stress so that they don't snap and so do not hold up well for street use. Have you ever heard something like that? That Ten Factory axle is around $150.00 Motive Gears standard axle is around $75.00.. Whats your thoughts?
Ok as to removing the axle...
What about dropping it with the springs still attached?
I think I already posted that last year I was going to replace the shackles and bushings but had thew wrong bushings. If I drop the axle with the springs still attached I can change out the bushings and shackles while I am a it. I have all the bolts already, they were correct.. I know that would make it a bit harder to work with but I have some saw horses I could set it up on and that would actually help by raising it up higher for working on.
Thinking it would probably be a good idea to change the flexible brake line hose as it is original and I will have to bleed the brake anyway. I already replaced the front ones and the rear wheel cylinders last year.
Oh I hope I didn't make a mistake here too, but I ordered a used 1/4 dial type torque wrench that reads up to 30inch lbs from Ebay for $36. The seller has 100% feedback and says it works as it should.
CDI Dial Torque Wrench Model 301LDIN
I already have a 1/2 and 3/8 click type and don't know when I will ever use the 1/4 again..
I know with the larger torque wrenches they say not to use adapters or extensions but at less then 30inch lbs I would think it wont make much difference?
Oh as to stands, bought a set of those 6 ton stands from HF last year when we did the front end rebuild. The only others I have are 3 ton standard stands. My 85 van has a (don't know the rating) heavy hitch on it and I have been intending to swap it over to my 88. I would guess there shouldn't be any difference and so it should bolt right up to the 88?
I hear you on the axle tempering. Seems back when I replaced both 6 years ago, both axles ordered were Yukons and one failed after a few years, wasn't properly hardened at the bearing surface. I'd have to go back and look in my acct on Summit to see for sure. Seems everything you buy now is a crap shoot as to quality. The replacement is a so called "performance" brand (again, don't recall for sure as to that, but it's got a decal on the end attesting to that) Dropping the axle with the springs attached would be a bear with the extra added weight. Ask me and I'd advise you to pull them separately, you only have the U bolts to unbolt to boot. To me it would make your job easier to do it this way, both in removing it and putting it back in.
Ok, tried to go back on Summit and look but their order history for my acct doesn't go back far enough. I may be wrong on Yukon, it may have been some other mfg. I do recall though one axle was on sale or clearance so it may have been another mfg than Yukon. If I had the time and inclination, I'd have both ends of the housing changed to 9" style and get rid of both the C clip retention and the axles serving as the inner bearings. I did that with an 8.8 out of an Explorer when I swapped it into an 89 Ranger.
Yea, I didn't think about the extra weight. My son is a good size young man now butI would be the other helper!
Do you have to replace the nuts on the U-bolts when you remove them?
No, the nuts should be fine as long as you lube them and clean the threads before removing them. Wire brush the threads and oil em up with ordinary cookin oil before taking them loose. Cookin oil works better than WD40 for this. We unbolted a pair of 90 year old railroad switch stands a few years back using peanut oil as a lubricant. Once we broke em loose they unscrewed like they were new.
Ok, tried to go back on Summit and look but their order history for my acct doesn't go back far enough. I may be wrong on Yukon, it may have been some other mfg. I do recall though one axle was on sale or clearance so it may have been another mfg than Yukon. If I had the time and inclination, I'd have both ends of the housing changed to 9" style and get rid of both the C clip retention and the axles serving as the inner bearings. I did that with an 8.8 out of an Explorer when I swapped it into an 89 Ranger.
My 85 has a 9" differential in it and I had originally thought about trying to swap it with this 88 but never found out enough info to see if would basically swap out. The 85 has a couple of places that were repaired on the roof gutter by the PO and a few months after I got it rust began to show through again so I don't know what I will do with the 85 yet.. I had done a bunch of work on it but then acquired the 88. I replaced everything on the brakes but the steel lines. Unfortunately they wont swap over to the 88. I also replaced the axle bearings and seals in the 9".
They are both MarkIII vans though so I even have a spare high top if needed!
No, the nuts should be fine as long as you lube them and clean the threads before removing them. Wire brush the threads and oil em up with ordinary cookin oil before taking them loose. Cookin oil works better than WD40 for this. We unbolted a pair of 90 year old railroad switch stands a few years back using peanut oil as a lubricant. Once we broke em loose they unscrewed like they were new.
Thanks for that info.. When looking for new springs all the sites said you need to replace most of the parts but that's probably because they sell them..
Thanks for the tip on the peanut oil too, I have never thought of that..
My dad was a mechanic and machinist and I always liked working with him so I learned a good bit from him.. Except how to read non- digital micrometers which I might need to use for this job!
01-07-2018, 05:26 PM
