Turning the shaft by hand would tell a lot.

 

The Ford dealer didn't have the relays they will be in tomorrow. I did some more investigating I'm getting continuity at 87a and 250olms with koeo so I believe the gem (4x4 module) is sending signal to both relays. I wrapped a wire around 30 which is the terminal to activate the gear motor and got nothing out of either relay. Hoping the new relays will correct the issue.

If not I'll follow your advice to pull the motor and try shifting manually. Wouldn't it be easier to check that I'm getting voltage at the motor coupler ? Would it signal the motor with koeo ?

Vacuum is working so believe that to be ok. I'm tempted to jump 30 with 12v and ground out other 30 that should manually activate the gear motor. It's not my daily driver so it's not urgent I get this thing fixed right away so please don't feel obligated to respond. Thanks again for all your help - I would be dead in the water without those repair manuals.

 

If you are going to try and power the motor do it off the transfer case.
That way over running a stop won't break anything.

I need to go check the PDFs I posted for you and make sure that the pinpoint
testing is for your year truck. 2005 correct?

 

sob the new relays didn't fix the problem. I'll dive into the tc this weekend. The gear motor seemed to work wouldn't the command need to be made to shift the Tc into hi or low in order for the gear motor to stop ? If it's neutral it should spin freely. Know more once I check for voltage at coupler and remove the gear motor.

It's 2005 I'll post again with what I find. Unfortunately the cheap fix didn't work.

 

Update - Getting 12v at the coupler to the gear motor. This can only be seen with Eng. On. Doesn't show any voltage with KOEOff. You can see the command being made to cycle the motor 5 times. It is fairly quick there isn't enough time to start the vehicle and crawl underneath to check for voltage. Next I pulled the gear motor, motor worked but it didn't turn the gear selector so something has let go within that mechanism. I'll see what the damage is on a new one, I haven't taken the internals apart to see if it is repairable, assuming some sprocket has stripped out. Hopefully this corrects the issue.

 

yea the test you describe is best performed with a test light it will flash on and off. If that occurs all electrical systems are ok at least if I've read correctly. Sounds like you wont be able to turn the tcase with a wrench then as the gearing inside it is damaged. Sucks man. Good news is a used electric tcase isn't expensive at all.

 

The damage is to the tc shift motor (external). Nothing wrong with the transfer case itself (at least I hope not), I can spin the selector shaft.




The donman electric motor spins a series of sprockets within the external casing that bolts to the TC selector shaft, its those sprockets (assuming its sprockets) in which something has gave up the ghost. I have a new assembly ordered $200 which should fix it ($800 for OEM).
I tried the test light, I had better success with the volt meter as it only burst for a second. The rest of the electrical systems seem fine. Thanks again for your help.

 

glad to hear it man sorry not a pro at this. But glad I could (attempt) to help lol

 

Hi Yahiko,
I have a few questions about my 2007 super duty 4x4 system and from reading the forums, you seem to be very knowledegable about these trucks.

My 4x4 will not engage. I put the truck in N with brake applied, hubs are on auto, turn the switch to 4x4 hi and no 4x4 light comes on the dash. Only comes on when I start the truck ( like everything else) . I also tried doing this with hubs manually locked and still nothing.

I can't find a good source on what fuses and relays to check for a 2007 F-350 super duty 4x4 with a 6.0L.

 

My recommendation would be to start a new thread. You should get more "traction" that way. (pun intended, LOL)

 

if you search my threads I have one that has step by step toubleshooting for the electrical side of the 4x4. Now i did it on my '03 so I dont know if there are differences but i have pictures schematics. If you follow it you should be able to figure it out. So long as you have a digital multi meter.

Edit: here it is for you

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1516220-conclusion-to-wont-come-out-of-4x4.html

 

 

agreed, I did this on mine when i had it. I used mile markers and was happy with them over the warns. Anything is better than this stupid CAD I have on my second gen dodge now though lol ..i need some 90's f350 axle parts to swap in.

 

You can permanently lock the CAD. Jeeps had it and got rid of it in the early 90s, Dodge did away with it in 02.

 

yea i have the cable operated mod for it. I'm gonna end up putting f350 knuckles, stub shafts, etc to allow me to use lockouts. I dont want it locked all the time plus like the free spinning ability of the lockouts.