Hi guys. I have always come here for Ranger issues, and found many good suggestions and help, but I registered this time because I think the Usual Suspect isn't the problem.

Let me introduce my Truck: 2001 Ford Ranger 2.5L 5 speed Manual 103,000 Miles The previous owner was the original owner, she kept up with oil changes and so have I. This is my second Ranger.

Problem: When the temperature drops below 50Foutside, the CHECK GAUGE light comes on and the oil pressure gauge does not flip up. I realize this is not a true gauge but more of an off/on indicator. Turning the truck around in the driveway so that it is facing down instead of up, and waiting a few minutes, and restarting it, and Viola, the gauge works. This problem has been ongoing this winter, and I started taking notes on it. It never happens when it is warm outside. Also, parking it backwards in the driveway when it is cold doesn't work, I still need to pull it in and out of driveway and let it sit a minute. I read up on the sensor, and possibly replacing that, but it seems strange to me that it seems to be ambient temperature related. Confession: I have been having oil changes done by shops for the last few years as I am getting to old to get under there myself. I have Assumed they have used the proper oil. Also, I barely drive anymore, just to the store and back, it almost never even warms all the way up. I have put a total of 1300 miles on the truck this last Year.

Any input would be appreciated.

 

on my 2000 3.0 the oil gauge has been doing that for somewhere around 10+ years now. takes about 2 miles for the gauge to jump up to normal.

 

*When was the oil level last checked?
*Are the kids at the oil change facility putting in the amount speced in the owners manual, or are they going by the dipstick level?

 

I checked the oil level when it first started happening in October, our first cold front, it was fine. I checked it right after the first incident, and checked it cold, and then again after warming up. It was right on the line each time. I really don't know what the kids at the oil change place are doing. My first thought was they used the wrong oil. The manual says 5W20, and that is what I always used when I did the changes myself. I have only been having it done by other people for the last two years. It's not even time yet for another oil change, but I am going to do one with the help of a neighbor and see if that changes anything.

 

the oil pressure sensors are known to fail around those years. try a mechanical gauge. you will get actual readings then, not just some needle that only registers low or normal. maybe a T fitting so you can run both and compare.
if my pressure is really that bad the engine would have seized years ago.

 

Convert the idiot gauge into an actual oil pressure gauge. It only takes replacing the pressure switch with a sending unit and removing the resistor on the back of the gauge cluster and jumping it with a piece of wire.

 

Welcome back to FTE.

I agree that the oil pressure sensor, or the electrical connection to it probably belongs high up on the suspect list.

Are you hearing any unusual engine noises when the gauge is indicating low, or no oil pressure?

Your shop oil change work receipt should indicate the oil viscosity & amount used, along with the oil filter Brand & part number used. If you have that info post it up here.

Since the problem seems to have come about After having the oil & filter work performed by shops, if they haven't been using the specified Motorcraft oil filter, it could be a oil filter type/design problem aggravating things, so maybe add that to the suspect list, until you have a look at your last work receipt, or call them & ask what oil filter brand, type Number & oil brand & Viscosity they used, or Would use if you brought it in for service.

SO, have a look on your last work receipt for that info & if not there, call them & ask as outlined above & post the info in this thread.

If no onerous engine sounds are being heard when the oil pressure gauge is acting out, maybe consider try taking this vehicle out for at least a 10 mile out & back highway run, to get the oil up to Operating temperature, so it's detergents & the oil filter can begin to tidy up the engine internals & any sludge the severe short tripping its been seeing lately. This to see if that'll make any difference in how the oil pressure sensor & gauge acts with regard to position. I'm thinking maybe oil pan sludge, or sludge at, or in the sensor orifice, might be mucking things up with the sensor, or maybe you have a loose electrical connection to it, or maybe it's just going bad as has been suggested.

Once you get it squared away, make it a habit to take the vehicle for at least a 10 mile out & back highway run at least once a month, to get the oil up to temperature, so the detergents & oil filter can keep the deposits cleaned up, evaporate engine condensation on the top & bottom end. Condensation from short trips can cause Sludge, that'll muck things up.

The battery should be checked for proper electrolyte level before the highway run, so the alternator can top up the battery charge, without uncovering the battery plates, as short tripping isn't good for the battery either, unless you have a smart battery maintainer hooked up to keep the battery charge topped off.

Since your in Texas, oil viscosity shouldn't matter as much in winter, as your cold isn't as bad as in say Wisconsin, where viscosity would make more cold temp start difference.

More thoughts for pondering, let us know what you find.

 

sounds like something I should've done years ago. any suggestions on a sensor part #, or model it goes into?

 

There are a few threads here and in other forums outlining how to do it.

 

I would start by unplugging and re-plugging the wire on the sensor. A bad connection could be temperature influenced.

 

Great suggestions. Will implement and let you know. Can't find receipt from last oil change. Engine makes no noises, runs great.