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Hi, I'm really a old man

 
  #46  
Old 06-11-2018, 09:11 PM
really ole man
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suddenly nuthin over nite

Hello from the ole one, A friend ask me to work on his older than dirt F250 with a IHC T444, or as we know it a 7.3 with out turbo and very little computer stuff. Simple job. The alternator wasn't charging and the batteries would go dead over nite. They were new on 10/17 interstate bat's.
This is a 1990 used as a farm truck and he was still using it. He purchased a replacement alternator and I removed the old one and put in the new one, naturally after disconnecting the batteries. it started real easy. But, in the process of the installation I noticed there were instruction that
said, " it;s advisable to replace the vintage regulator when installing a new alternator." Oops, I didn't, it also said to quickly jump between A-F to do something. OK, so since it was running which it said, I struck a jump between these to terminals. Notice for some reason the ground wire was hot.
Humm. Not right. So, disconnected ground and noted the gage showed a good positive charge, figured his batteries were low. After a bit of run time the gage went to normal and the alternator noise quited. I figured it "charged" turned off truck. The guy came home and showed him it would run.
It did, he was happy. until next morning, dead batteries, put on charger and noted not even a bit of energy to the dash or anything. Disconnected batteries, charged and later tried, nothing no juice to key would turn or click. No burnt wires, checked relays and all fused I could find, nothing burnt out.
Check everything for burnt wire, nothing.
Question, is there a fuse, fuse point like GM has or something that causing no energy to get to key switch. I replaced the relay on the right side fender well that is near battery. Anyone have a hint of what to look at next? Thanks Rusty
 
  #47  
Old 06-11-2018, 09:45 PM
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You might want to post this in the era appropriate for the patient. Ours have fuseable links near the battery. Mine has two of them right at the starter relay that sits on the fender but those were only there up until 2001, then they changed it up. If that older model has a starter relay on the fender it might have them too. They are in the wires that are something like a 10 ga that feeds the glow plug relay and one goes to the fuse box.
 
  #48  
Old 06-12-2018, 02:29 PM
really ole man
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Thanks for the note. They have been changed to a fuse, and they used 20 amp. They were not blown. There were also 2 relays in line like the ones used in the later model fuse box. They were changed by me just in case. Still not juice to switch. I found there was a hot wire that went into a shrink tube that has 2 wire coming out of the other end. Going to check them to see if they are the cause. No flex to the area under the shrink tube, but that doesn't mean there isn't a problem there. Going to check now and will find and move my results.
Thanks again, Rusty
 
  #49  
Old 06-12-2018, 02:46 PM
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The old IDIs had voltage regulators, I'd give a gander at that to see if you're getting output from it. Back when I had an 84 6.9 I swapped it over to a 3G alternator (internally regulated, higher amperage output) and didn't have any issues out of it when I sold it - possible idea for a future alternator job on the truck.
 
  #50  
Old 06-12-2018, 02:58 PM
really ole man
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Think you are right. I notice that when I got the alternator out of the box, after installing there was a very small piece of paper in the bottom that said, put in a new voltage regulator. Maybe that's par of the problem. Rusty
 
 
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