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Hi, I'm really a old man

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  #31  
Old 01-05-2018, 05:54 PM
really ole man
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I have a question about removing the HPOP. at the front of the HPOP oil reservoir there is a plate that exposes the shaft end of the pump. ? Does the nut need to come off to remove the pump. Looking
I confused at how the gear effects the pulling the pump toward the rear.
I know it's not easy to get loose, but looking at new pump has the gear in it. Any hints will be helpful
Thanks Rusty
 
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  #32  
Old 01-05-2018, 06:02 PM
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I felt like that nut was fairly easy to get off. I'm thinking it torques to 95 ft lbs but it might be 85, verify before refastening. That nut comes off and the gear then slides off and the pump can be removed. There is no woodruff key, just a tapered shaft. The nut and large washer are too big to fall down into the engine so no need to sweat losing them. Are you saying that you got a new pump and it has the gear attached?
 
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  #33  
Old 01-05-2018, 06:06 PM
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Yes, the say the nut is torques to 125 ft#. That's was bugs me. Not easy to get off. I used a thin wall socket and snapped it without breaking loose. I less craftsman socket Thanks.
 
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  #34  
Old 01-05-2018, 06:12 PM
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I've been looking around...actually it's a bolt. 125 sounds a bit heavier than I recall but my memory is somewhat lacking. I used an impact socket on there and a breaker bar, it let go pretty easy.
 
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  #35  
Old 01-05-2018, 06:17 PM
really ole man
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Hi, I agree, it's only a 1/2" threaded shaft, and 3/4" socket. jam nut for locking. I'll try the impact. Thanks. That's all I need to do is shear the shaft. The other nut after check is not locked down. But, new.
Thtat's tomorrows project. Thanks
 
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  #36  
Old 01-05-2018, 06:18 PM
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95 ft. lbs it is, here's a link to step by step instructions for replacement.

HPOP Replacement Instructions - Ford Diesel Performance Parts Blog
 
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  #37  
Old 01-05-2018, 06:27 PM
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Got it Thanks for your help. Rusty
Sorry to hear your weather has been so bad.
Rusty
 
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  #38  
Old 05-13-2018, 02:36 PM
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Howdy. This is the final chapter on my ole dually that tried but wouldn't start. Not sure I'm even doing this post correctly. I gave up about 2 plus weeks ago on trying to figure out why it wouldn't keep running as it would try and never carry through. There appeared to be several problems after I had it towed to town, which was expensive since my insurance only covered a part there of. Well. way back when someone told me to check the valve cover gasket to be sure they were no the start of the problem. I found lots of cracks in the wire and replace them and the connector that plug into them externally as the ends didn't look good. This was problem one, the connector end furnished with the aftermarket kit had a major malfunction. The connector pins did not go thru and there fore. Had no ground on LH bank, and on #7 on opposite side. So this caused the engine to not fire due to not enough cylinders connecting, 3 out of 8 just ain't enough. Then found that some of the glow plug were not up to par, so while covers off, replaced, Ford type. Like lot of $$$. Got those codes to cancel. Still would fire. So, they wanted to confirm the IDM was Ok, was, but in the connecting harness there was a short, or blow out. Fixed got to fire. At this point there are lot's of hours involved, and $$$. Since it ran, they took it for a test drive, a block away quit, blew a HPOP line, Since I replaced the HPOP, found out they replaced stock ford fittings with a after market fitting. Out of tolerance a couple thousands, like .002 undersize. Replace Orings and fitting that they sent me and guess what, they blew too. That's when I gave up and said, order from ford and replace hoses too. OUCH, they won't be here till next week, but it does run if you don't try to drive it. LMBO, not really. So, guess the moral of the story is, if you have a 7.3 and buy a HPOP have them use you fitting from the old pump, and don't buy all the little things online, as most of the stuff is reject seconds or something. Not to step on anyones toes. But, lesson learned the hard way.
Hopefully the ole truck runs and I can go back to work with it. Till then, Happy ******* Day. Rusty
 
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  #39  
Old 05-13-2018, 08:33 PM
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Rusty,
Glad you got the ol girl running again. When replacement parts are defective it makes for some nightmare trouble shooting. Hopefully the new HPOP lines will get you back on the road and back to work. These trucks can throw some low sliders at you every now and again but when they're working they sure are workhorses.
 
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Old 05-13-2018, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kay View Post
Rusty,
Glad you got the ol girl running again. When replacement parts are defective it makes for some nightmare trouble shooting. Hopefully the new HPOP lines will get you back on the road and back to work. These trucks can throw some low sliders at you every now and again but when they're working they sure are workhorses.
Hi Bill Kay, your right on about a workhorse. People love'em or cuss them. She been good to me, but, I'm hoping that this is end of major problem. Didn't want to mention names of after market companies but, can furnish if anyone wants them. This project just about broke the bank
had I not sold a good horse for some busks and it didn't hurt as bad, well yes, had other plans for that money too. Didn't take my own medicine, cheap doesn't mean it's any good, and expensive just hurts worse. Have a great week. Rusty
 
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  #41  
Old 05-14-2018, 12:58 PM
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If you want to save a few dollars on genuine Ford OEM parts, you can talk to Clay at Riffraff Diesel Performance, Bob at Diesel-o-Rings, or call Auto Nation Ford at White Bear Lake (formerly Tousley Ford )... they will all beat the devil out of regular Ford Dealer prices while still providing genuine Ford parts.
 
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  #42  
Old 05-14-2018, 08:07 PM
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Rusty

Wondering what part of the NW you are located in?
Im in Roy Wa, and have a 99 f350 2wd ext cab long bed 7.3 with 6 speed manual, always willing to help a guy out, althogh Im getting pretty darn old myself. You do Korea or VN or both?
Jim
 
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  #43  
Old 05-15-2018, 04:50 AM
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  #44  
Old 05-15-2018, 02:05 PM
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Hi Guys,
Been on tractor last few days trying to get seen in. Got;er done last nite. All dryland, Jim, I'm in a spot in the road called Sprague River, OR. My old truck, 99 F-350, 7.3 big turbo, no chip anymore, 6 sp, 3.73 rear, all disc brakes. Bought as a super 4 dr single rears as dually were not available on 6' bed, So i made my own. Went to parts dept the day I ordered it Jan.6, 1999 as a girlfriend of days gone by was working in the fleet dept. Ordered wheels, fenders, and all the rest of the little things to make a dually except rear end. Machiined Alum spacers and stud. At the time I had a full size machine shop in the Sacramento Valley. I also was a Banks dealer, so bought the parts I needed and on Feb 28 my new truck arrived and I took it home and torn it down and made it the way I wanted. Now have 326K on it and hauled lots of horses lots of miles. Got totally to a point of rage on the da road and decided to move. The bride and I came north found a place and moved in 02. To answer Jims question, Laos/Cambodia 59-60, peace keepers, nuf said.
David, I have now went to anything other than using a product called, ER for oil's and fuel. With the turbo if I stay out of the pedal I'm usually averaging about 16 - 19 mpg, with trailer about 10 - 12 at best.
The problem I hope is solved with the fuel line on the truck, my friend that owns the shop is driving it as if he owns it for a day or two, just to make sure he doesn't when I pick it up. But, haven't heard from him today. To Think, where is Auto nation ford? You guys take care. I'll try to check in at least once a week. Summer is short in this area and tons to do. Know anyone wanting to buy a ranch. Think it's time for the 80 year old to pack it in and travel more. especially in the winter. Take care, Rusty
 
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  #45  
Old 05-15-2018, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by really ole man View Post
... where is Auto nation ford?

White Bear Lake, Minnesota

Link to their website >>>>> https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/
 
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