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Hi, I'm really a old man

  #16  
Old 12-23-2017, 10:07 PM
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Another cautionary tale
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did you jump the two LARGE posts on your GPR? if not try taking a screw driver (WARNING THIS WILL PRODUCE A BRIEF SPARKING WHEN YOU DO THIS FOR A FEW SECONDS BE CAREFUL to the two large terminal posts for a few seconds to see if the GPs light up, also do you have torque pro? if so some data like the IPR duty cycle and ICP may help us out some.
 
  #17  
Old 12-24-2017, 08:33 AM
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You getting white smoke out the tailpipe, while cranking? RPM needle move while cranking?
 
  #18  
Old 12-24-2017, 08:47 AM
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Welcome to the forum Rusty,
You sound like you have lived a very interesting life and have been blessed with a storehouse of knowledge. Your input to this forum will certainly be appreciated.
As for your current problem, I would install a new CPS and if that is not it I would go with item 3 on Jaime74656's list, pick up in fuel tank. I have had my 2003 7.3 for 10 years and almost 300,000 miles and the two times it would start, once it was CPS and the other pick up in tank.
Merry Christmas to and glad you are with us.
Blessings,
 
  #19  
Old 12-25-2017, 01:02 PM
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Good Morning, to all.
Jamie 74656, I already checked that part of the glow plug circuit. The GP worked when a jumper place across. Checked each end at the GP plug.
Now someone I was talking to local said something that popped back into my old head. ? did you remove the negative (-) cable on the batteries before
you changed any of the parts out, ie: IPR, cam shaft senor, etc.? Nope, the key of out of of switch. They said, you have to disconnect the cables from the batteries
or you will send a signal to the computer as a fault. Is this true? If so how to I clear the codes? I was told you didn't have to on the 7.3. I've replaced several
cam senors in the pasted and never removed the cables.
Input please, Thanks,
Rusty MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL.
 
  #20  
Old 12-26-2017, 06:20 AM
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Mr young Rusty,
I just re read your post. If you disconnect the ICP (the one in the left head oil rail) it default to 700 ish psi which will start the engine if the ICP are the problem.
If you disconnect one of the HPOP lines whilst cranking( with the ICP sensor disconnectet) you should see plenty of oil out of the ICP hole.
It seems to me that plp often jump to more complex failures or at least are thinking this problem are worse than it really is. Often there are minor things that cause the problem as these engines are very reliable when maintained.
Get youselves tourqe pro and a blue tooth dongle and start checking out the parameters needed to have the engine running.
I think Tugly have some good treads about an inexpensive way of monitoring PID's.
This is when you start getting the electronic's out to diagnose - otherwise you will be gessing all the way to torquey :-)
Welcome on board,
Helge
 
  #21  
Old 12-26-2017, 04:08 PM
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"The GP worked when a jumper place across."

If I am reading this correctly you state that the GP's work when the GP relay is bypassed but not under normal operation? If so it sounds like bad GPR or a GPR control signal issue.
 
  #22  
Old 12-26-2017, 08:00 PM
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Smile GPR

Thanks Hydro, I agree, going to get a new one tomorrow. Didn't work on it today, only got to 36 so shop is to large to heat with a wood burning barrel heater. Also going to buy one of those thingies OBD11 or what ever.
Is the Hydro from being in Hydraulic's? Thanks Rusty
 
  #23  
Old 12-26-2017, 10:57 PM
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Is the Hydro from being in Hydraulic's?

Hydro Electric system operator. 25 years with PG&E.
 
  #24  
Old 12-27-2017, 02:58 AM
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Did you ever remove/replace the uvch, Rusty?
 
  #25  
Old 12-27-2017, 07:35 PM
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Timmyboy what's a uvch, probably not. bought a OBD2 today, will try running code test tomorrow. I never got above 28 until 2 PM Rusty

Hydro, that's neat, my dad was the strong boss as they referred to them back them on Shasta Dam when it was built. If you remember the town that was sticking out of the water. His crew and him built that many moons ago.
 
  #26  
Old 12-27-2017, 07:57 PM
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It's the Under Valve Connector Harness. There's a modification called the, 50 cent mod, where you take a quarter, shave hit down to George's head, then jam it in the connector, under the valves. They have a tendency of coming loose over time
 
  #27  
Old 12-27-2017, 08:51 PM
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Old Man
Shasta dam was built a bit before my time - I think. I believe post WWII. I am a "49 ER"
 
  #28  
Old 12-27-2017, 09:30 PM
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Hydro, I'm sorry. I really meant that as. If you ever were at Shasta Dam and the old tower that was in the lake not to far from the dam. That was what I was referring to. And, yes, If I recall it was because my brother was born in Shasta City in 1940. LOL darn I am old. Take care.
 
  #29  
Old 12-28-2017, 01:27 PM
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Old Man,
No offence taken if that is what you mean. I don't recall the tower that you speak of, but I was something like 15 or 16 before I ever had a look at the actual dam and lake. Don't know if you are still local but, the lake was at it's lowest level in MANY years a couple of years ago and did not see any evidence of it.
 
  #30  
Old 01-03-2018, 01:24 PM
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Hello Guys,

The problem I guess has come down to the HPOP as the pressure % ran from 14 to 54% So taking it out today, I hope. Watched about 6 videos and think I can handle it. Will let you know more in as time goes on.
I took someone advise and bought a OBD11 unit and used my I pad. Works great. Did find there is a few modification I will make and let you know the outcome.
Hope you New Year started good.
Rusty
 

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