Thanks, Sous. Before you drop it in the mail, make sure we touch base. I hope to have a better idea of the failure before too long. Maybe I won't need it?

I REALLY want to keep the EBPV system. I often drive a few miles in 1st gear (4R100) to warm up in the winter. Even with the system, it takes quite a while to warm up the engine and then get heat in the cabin up here on cold days.

Thank you!

 

My Intake Air Temp sensor (I think) is unplugged. It's the one in the airbox, right? Would that have any impact at all on the truck?

I just remembered that I forgot it when reinstalling the airbox.

 

Findings:

EBP Sensor tube with sensor removed




The partially clogged EBP Sensor



Tip: Holding your finger next to the item you want to have in focus from your camera helps.

So I'll be removing my (NEW this past Spring) EBP tube and cleaning both the tube and sensor and *hopefully* that will solve the issues

At least let me move onto the next step of tweaking. I'd much rather be tweaking tunes and stuff than repairing

Thank you to Sous and Mark for their kind and generous offers of EBPV solenoids. With the above findings, I don't think I'll need one. I REALLY appreciate it, guys!

 

Do you have a mechanical boost gauge or are you reading off of the map sensor? The map sensor is only capable of reading 24-25 psi. Also what tuning are you using?

 

I am reading the MAP sensor using Torque Pro. Others here are reading 29-30psi with the same sensor, right? I have a separate boost gauge, but not yet hooked up, some work to do on the mounting.

I have a single "Economy" tune from Tony Wildman. Once everything is worked out and we tweak anything that needs it, I plan to get tow and performance tunes, too

 

When using a scanner at WOT my map sensor maxes out at 24 psi and my boost guage is reading around 30.

 

Really? I only know what I have seen, not what I *should* see, so I can't speak with authority on it.

I can say if I have the same results you have, I would be THRILLED!

 

This may be a dumb question but . . . when you read at WOT is that under load while driving down the highway or . . .?

 

Usually a 5th gear pull.

 

Thanks. I started playing around with FORScan trying to get a graph set up similar to those above.

I wouldn't be able to gather much useful information from it personally but thought if I could get one done I would post it.

 

In Torque Pro, my "boost" reading from the MAP will only go to 24.8 psi. With my new turbo wheel and non-leaking up pipes, I'm hitting 30 psi on my manual gauge. And I've noticed that my MAP reading on Torque Pro will be messed up until the SES light from the overboost code clears. It actually shows a high reading equivalent to the overboost. For example, If I hit 30 psi on my manual gauge, the MAP reading will read approximately 5 psi high until the SES light clears. Then everything resets. Not sure if others have this problem, but that's how things are working with my PHP tunes. When I first did this, I thought I messed up my MAP sensor. But so far, it has reset every time. I know it probably isn't good for the sensor, that's why the Riff Raff overboost controller is soon to be installed.

 

The map sensor is works off of a 0-5 volt signal and at 24-25 psi of boost it is maxed out a 5 volts. This graph is absolute psi so for boost you have to subtract 14.7 psi for atmospheric pressure.

 

Steep hill, 45-80mph or wider range as possible. TPS is Throttle Position Sensor (skinny pedal). I don't usually go 100%, but usually 80%+

I have a few places with spotty traffic and wide open space. I wait until no traffic and go for it.

In this thread I have been logging and then picking out the section of data that appears to be of diagnostic value.

 

Thanks for the info on your boost and Torque Pro, ff lc freak

I appreciate the Boost/MAP/volts vs psi chart, 00t444e

 

Wrinkle:

After painstakingly cleaning the EBP tube, sensor, and front mounted fitting, I was initially pleased as before. While temp is low, can give burst of throttle and turbo jumps up quickly. Easily hits 25psi.

After warming up and holding the psi a few seconds, it drops. Then the idle is crap.

I pulled over and listened for the EBPV being closed, but no jet engine sound as I've become accustomed to over the years. I climbed up on the truck before after the run and the EBPV lever appears to be in the correct position. There really is no access to the lever without removing the CAC tubes and spider

I tried unplugging the ICP sensor after returning from the aborted run (only made it half way to the site, turned around), but no improvement.

I wiggled the passenger side UVCH plug while running, no difference (carefully suspended over top using the topside creeper and all strings and parts tucked in and away from the belt )

But I noticed FIPW (Fuel Injector Pulse Width) jumping around erratically while idling and decided to grab a log of it.

Here it is:



Notice how the ICP is dead steady? It does vary a little but not in this sampling.

The lime green is FIPW. See it jumping around and notice the RPMs in orange.

Ideas?

Another bad injector? Bad UVCH?

Since it is idling, even a bad turbo or EBPV wouldn't cause this, right?

Fuel pressure is 85-90psi and steady. I do have aftermarket fuel filter right now, Purolator I think, with the integrated cap and filter.

Still starts in before the end of "One Mississippi"

I'm thinking about putting a new UVCH on the passenger side. I don't have orings to reinstall the turbo so I am avoiding pulling it until I can't.