When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That makes me think the parts guy gave me the wrong one cause I googled the other number and they look the same. Although neither of them look like the stock adapter fitting you posted. The hose end that I took off the pump looks like the fitting I bought so I thought I was good. I’m glad I didn’t screw it in all the way and just enough go the pic. And I’m glad I only paid ten bucks lol.
flhx: I think I had some miscommunication with the folks at Lokar. I was focusing on a column shifter application and this is a floor shifter. This Lokar shifter requires a stand-alone, aftermarket, electronic transmission controller like the "Quick 6" from usshift.com. Once that is installed, the Lokar electronic sport mode shifter will work. Thanks for the information.
G-Force: I think I have spent way too many hours trying to figure this out. It is kind of amazing how many "tech" guys don't really know what is going on. I think part of the problem is there are not very many people going with the C3 style Mustang pump. The high cost of the Ford bracket might be factor. I have both fittings on order and I will post some pictures when they arrive. In the mean time, I will continue to research this issue with hopes I can find a definitive answer.
I managed to get both a Russell 648060 and a Russell 648030 power steering pump fittings.
Here they are, side by side. The 648060 is on the left (marked 60). This is the one advertised as being made with a 16mm x 1.5 thread. Honestly, I can't see a difference in the thread pitch between the two fittings. If there is a difference, it is very minute. However, a closer examination shows the hex portion of the 060 fitting to be slightly thinner than the 030 fitting. The overall length of 060 is tiny bit shorter than the 030. I added a -6 O-ring next to the hex on both fittings. The differences between the two fittings may be on purpose or nothing more than differences between production runs. I will have to wait until next week to check on fitment.
I tried the 060 adapter in the pump yesterday. I was not very happy with the way it fit. It is basically similar to the 030 version. Like you, I don't have a way to start the engine at the moment to see if it leaks. I will continue to look for a better solution.
Even though the shop is short staffed at the moment, work has started on the cab floor and the transmission cover. There is still some engineering that needs to be done, but it all seems doable at the moment.
As mentioned earlier, It would appear there will need to be a significant bump fabricated in the floor to clear the 6R80 transmission case.
As is typical in these situations, the "Domino Effect" appears to have raised its ugly head once again. The new transmission hump will impact the amount of room left for the accelerator pedal. It appears there will not be enough room for the gas pedal and the brake pedal to co-exist within the diminishing space between steering column and the transmission hump. One possible solution will be to modify the clutch pedal and transform it into the brake pedal. That would potentially allow the master cylinder and brake booster to be mounted further away from the engine, creating much need space. I guess if it was easy, everybody would do it, right?
One other aspect that I am coming to grips with involves the transmission shifter. I have been exploring the options available to control a 6R80 from the steering column. So far, I have not had much luck. The problem involves my wanting to control all six gears manually. Under normal conditions, I want to be able to put the trans in "Drive" and have it shift through the six speeds all by itself. I also want the option to put the trans in first gear and manually shift through all six gears. One potential solution involves installing a stand alone transmission controller like the "Quick 6" from Baumann Electronic Controls (usshift.com). I could then use a Lokar "Automatic Electronic Sport Mode" floor shifter to control the transmission (Thanks flhx). The shifter would mount on top of the transmission cover similar to a floor console. As always, I am open to ideas and suggestions.
Bercier: I am not sure where you are coming from with respect to your last post (above). I am glad you did not "butcher" your truck to install a Chevrolet. No offense, but I would ask that you not post any more on this thread. Your cooperation is appreciated.
That Lokar shifter looks like nice equipment and I know they have a good reputation for solid equipment. But I also feel your pain on the the column mount. Thats been my wife’s one request when I do the engine swap so that she can still ride in the middle of the bench seat comfortably. I want to run a Coyote with an auto too, I’m thinking that the Lokar shifter is my best option.
flhx: I agree 100%. The column shifter would keep the versatility of the bench seat. However, it would appear my choice of transmissions and front suspension are going to call for a sizable hump right in the middle of the floor. The limiting factor Coyote oil pan and the sway bar tube on the RS front end. The combination of the two limit my ability to lower the engine in the chassis.
As mentioned, I am thinking I can just mount the Lokar shifter on the top of the trans hump which will give me the benefit of having the capability of selecting all 6 gears. Your post also help to validate some of my thinking in this area. At this very moment, there may not be many other options.
We did make some more progress on the cab floor earlier today. The more challenging portion of the transmission cover fabrication is yet to come.
You may lose the bench seat but you can build a nice cockpit area, like they do in the newer F-150's and the like. Buckets, Console, DVD Player for playing a movie on the road.
D: That is an option. I think I will wait to see how things shape up with the trans cover/tunnel before I cross that bridge. I am still trying to keep all of this from getting out of hand.
Sorry Old Bleu cause I mentioned this before but the moroso pan not only sits higher in the front, it sits further back so there is more room in the middle and front. Where it gains its room is in the rear Sides and it’s deep. Another reason I picked it is because it’s aluminum and if needed it can be modified by cutting and welding. When I bought it, it was unclear if it would fit the crown vic ifs without mods. Well mine fit without mods and without mods to the trans tunnel or cover. When I put the two pans side by side the moroso had more clearance in every way but width and depth and it sits flush with the bottom of the subframe. I think it’s worth taking some measurements to see for sure. Maybe it might help. Yes I am running a manual trans which is smaller than the auto but not that much smaller. There is also the option of running an old school trans ( non electronic ) which is also smaller and helps with shifter options. This is for you too flhx. Something to consider.
Bleu, another thing I think may be giving you problems is that you centred the engine (gas pedal, steering shaft, booster, alternator plug etc.) but I think it’s too late to change that although it’s never too late to think about all options. I don’t remember if you centered the diff but I’m sure you have cause your pretty maticulous.
Anyway just trying to help so hopefully it triggers a 💡
08-02-2018, 11:11 AM
