I did not get a single response today so I guess I may have posted in the wrong section. So I'm re-posting here.

Well I finally finished my injector cup repair. In the process I upgrade to stage 2 injectors and new GTP38R turbo and changed program from SCT to Hydra. Also added RR Fuel HPX. Went with the middle spring I think gold. Already had the oil HPX.

Also, at the same time I found the injector cup problem ,the smoking, I pulled codes and had a new code P1211. So while doing the injectors I pulled the IPR and disassembled and cleaned thoroughly and lightly oiled and installed new o-rings, and reinstalled

I'm now in the flushing process. Initial start, man it sounded bad! Started on third try though. Smoking has subsided and after a period at idle and high idle checking for leaks and a couple hard drives around the neighborhood it is sounding much better.

Now for the concens - Had SES Check engine light initially. Checked a few things and it is cleared. I set my AU scanner as shown on RiffRaff Diesel 7.3L ICP/IPR AU Set-up. Everything appeared as normal except the most critical sensors. ICP % and ICP Volts!

Where they where showing on start up: ICP % and ICP Volts
1310 and 1.7
I was showing 3810 and 4.7

After running a while, note cannot get oil temps above 110 as running without thermostat, the ICP% came down to 3,500-3,600 and ICP Volts 4.5. But would drop below 4.5 and go from red to yellow briefly. Also, under hard acceleration both would drop, albeit slightly, but ICP Volts would briefly go yellow and under 4.5 but as yet to run in the green.

Oh, and I have the PHP Hydra Six in the Dailey Driver program

So, I'm very concerned about these high readings. Have I fouled up something with rebuilding the IPR. Do I need to drop back down on a spring size on the FPR?

I'm afraid about running much or taking on a long drive to flush cleaners through cooling system.

Any ideas?

Oh BTW, Oh my word! The power and acceleration blew me away! The DD program far exceeds my High Performance SCT mode. Of course there are other mods in play here.

Blue

 

Also, just remembered, when re-installing IPR, I noticed the back of the IPR connector the insulating potting compound was mush and partially missing, and wires flopping around. I manually separated the two wires and filled the back of the connector with liquid electrical tape and let cure until firm.

Not sure if there might still be a connector or wire issue internally. I haven't checked wiring schematic yet. But typically I would try to find place in the wiring harness to isolate and check for continuity or short.

Does anyone know best way to do this? What about checking for voltage to insure in the min and max range? I'm guessing voltage at connector cannot be checked with engine running unless through back of connector or piercing the wire?

Blue

 

Well, I had a heck of a time today trying to get thermostat housing to seal so I can continue to flush. More on that later. But SES light back on and checked codes and I did have several new ones. Appear to be related to issues above.

P1209 - ICP Peak Delta Test Fault

P1282 - ICP Higher Than Desired (engine running)

Any ideas? Truck seems to be running fine. Just sounds different. Sounds like it has a big Cam in it at idle!

Blue

 

First.... ICP%? Are you meaning ICP PSI, and that's the PID you're using?

IPR volts doesn't work... it's a waveform with a duty cycle. You need to look at IPR%, then we have a commonly understood PID to work with.

I suspect your ICP sensor is toast, but I can't be sure until I see the IPR%

 

I set up AE scanner as shown on RiffRaff Diesel 7.3L ICP/IPR AE Set-up how-to article I downloaded. And yes I meant ICP%.

I installed Full Force tunes on PHP Hydra Six and have only run in the Daily Driver mode thus far.

Below first pic is after I tried to warm up. It is actually idled up in this shot .

The second pic is after a short hard run around the neighborhood trying to work air out of system.

ICP volts dropped below 4.5 and yellow on hard acceleration and after I got back but after letting it idle it went back red at 4.5 +

The ICP Pressure PSI is what is alarming to me.

I'm concerned about driving. I've only put about 8 miles going around neighbor hood. We have a big neighborhood. Its four miles. I've been around twice.

I will set-up and look for the IPR% and give it a run

 

I can check mine but that seems like a wot run

 

The second pic is at idle. Under hard acceleration both ICP% and volts dropped slightly but neither went green. Not sure what the reading needs to be to reach the green assuming the normal range.

According to the RR How-To on the ICP/IPR they both should drop down as the oil temps increase. Right now I still have Simple Green in without a T-Stat so I can't get temps up. I want to drive it a while versus idling to continue on with the flush. But I'm concerned about the extremely High ICP%

Blue

 

If you want to get meaningful help, you have to learn to use the correct terminology, so people know what you are trying to say. Words matter.


As Tugly pointed out, you can basically forget about the IPR voltage, as it will not vary much. As long as it is close to the 5v sensor reference voltage, forget about and move on to more important data.

You do NOT have high ICP %. You're ICP "%", otherwise called the Duty Cycle, is actually very low, showing only 4.69% at idle. It should be about 10-12%

What IS ridiculously HIGH is your ICP PSI (Pressure). It is highly unlikely ( nearly impossible) that your HPOP is making 3800PSI at idle. Its very unlikely that your HPOP can make 3800 PSI EVER, at any RPM.

So, there is a high likelihood you have a BAD ICP SENSOR. Buy a new MOTORCRAFT ( NO aftermarket junk. OEM only) replacement and install it before going any further. Second, check ICP sensor harness connector ( plug). If it has any oil on it, purchase and install a new "pigtail" and connector.
After this has been done, recheck the data. If its not right, THEN you can start looking deeper. Perhaps wiring issues further into the harness. Or a bad PCM. But you have to do the basics first, to eliminate the most common problems related to your issues. Those would be a bad sensor and/or bad plug/connector.

As for your temp issues, simply block off most or all of the grille with cardboard, secured with zip ties through the grille. That will help it warm up quicker.

 

What truck and year do you have? What tunes are you running on your "Hydra" (no "Hydra 6", there are 15 positions, plus 00) ?

What color is the plug on your ICP? It's not mixed up with fuel bowl heater or something?

What injectors did you get and from whom? What size are they (ie 160/80)?

As others mentioned, let's get you oriented and your terms consistent with what we mostly use around here so more people can help out

 

Thanks guys for the responses. Guess not easy to hide the new user status. After this major project I guess anxiety over initial issues got to me. I will try to do better.

I'm thinking initial assessments are probably correct. I'm getting intermittent SES light.

I decided to take first road trip and run to town and use my Harbor Freight coupon before it expired. Hooked up AE and cranked and whoa, ICP (PSI) was reading 735. I let her warm up, or run for a bit as I always let her warm up before heading out. Then I switched to High Idle while I finished unloading tools in back if truck. I got back in cab and AE was all blanks. I guess when I switched programs it lost connection. So I shut down everything and started over. When I cranked it the ICP (PSI) was back up to 3500+.

Oh Tugly, I looked for the IPR% in the Drop Down List and I do not have that one listed.

Anyway, went down the road made a few stops then got on Interstate. First think I notice is no Check Engine Light! Or is SES the correct terminology? And truck is running awesome so far. Next think I notice is no cruise control? Well, I'll worry about it later.

Also notice it just has a different sound than before.

Got off interstate and at red light I smell oil burning. I'm thinking it is a car in front of me. Get down the road had this feeling something was't right and just passed a NAPA did a U-turn and went and pulled in parking lot and raised the hood and oil every where! Climbed up on tire on one side then the other and found oil spraying out of HPX oil line fitting at the block.

While doing these upgrades I had the HPX line off to Rand R the Turbo. I pulled these fittings to fill the heads with oil. I went to get new o-rings and called RiffRaff from the store to get type and size and all the sales guy could tell me was their PN. So I'm guessing I did not get correct o-ring as it looked like o-ring failure to me. Fixed it in parking lot with the closest vitron o-ring NAPA had and went on to spend a few more bills at HF. Went back way home to not get on interstate. Pulled in carport backed up to back into garage and noticed a stripe of oil. Pulled in shut her down and o-ring on other side had blew and shooting oil everywhere. Let her cool down some and checked oil level and it was about the same as when I left NAPA so I do not think it had been leaking long.

Long story short. SES light was one on different legs of the trip and off for most of the way. I've got HPX fitting out and plan to take by hydraulic shop tomorrow and also call RiffRaff back and see if I can get someone who is more informed to help me get the correct o-ring. I do not think, or at least I hope, it was not a failure due to excessively high oi pressure!

Also, plan to go by Ford and get an ICP sensor. I'm that way about all parts I buy when servicing my equipment. I always by from Ford, John Deere, Volvo, Husqvarna etc.
I did remove and and check the connector (Black) on this sensor as I had heard that the presence of oil was a sign of sensor bad or going bad. Found no oil. I did disconnect and remove was the IPR (Black) as I pulled the IPR to clean and replace o-rings because as mentioned before P1211 code showed up same time I discovered Injector cup failure. Note where I mentioned above the IPR connector was in bad shape and I did a repair on it. Did re-check retaining nut on IPR and it is tight.

I did not remove fuel bowl heater (White).

Whew, long day, I need to go back to work tomorrow to get a break!

Blue

 

Ordered 02/02 to make sure I got me a F250 7.3L_auto, w/ Manual 4x4.

Vendor website called it a Hydra-6. It came with 6 programs. I've only run in the Dailey Driver program thus far. I've been reluctant to mention vendor but initials are FF


Black on ICP. White on rear bottom of fuel bowl.


Again, FF. 180/80s. Also, upgraded turbo to GTP38R and added RR's Fuel HPX kit w/ gold or the mid-range spring.


Thanks for the help. I will work on my post and terminology.

Blue

 

Sounds like you are getting there!

Don't worry about the newbie part. We've all been there, done that. How do you think we know what you're going through?

The HPx worked well for me, but it was in my way every time I want to do something in the valley or remove my spider/turbo, or whatever. It didn't leak, but when I replaced my HPO lines and fittings on the heads and HPOP, I took the advice of Sous and replaced the HPOP fittings with a non-checkvalve version, which accomplishes the same benefits as the HPx, making it unnecessary.

So I send RiffRaff a few more dollars to by oil rail plugs because I couldn't find my old ones, LOL.

I replaced my IPR not too long ago. I didn't clean mine, but heard even with the oring rebuild kit that it doesn't always fix the fault. But replacing the ICP first with a Ford/IH OEM is a good first step. If it is reading incorrectly, the IPR won't really know what it should be doing.

FYI. You can unplug the ICP sensor and the truck will use calculated values from internal tables to make an educated guess where the ICP should be. See if that smooths out your truck's running?

AE is touchy. Any interruption- such as key cycle, computer sleeping, certain birds flying overhead- can cause it to lose its security validation and you have to restart the software and sometimes do a complete unplug from computer and truck and start over.

But don't worry, because AE no longer saves your monitor setup sessions, so you get lots of practice choosing all your PIDs to monitor again

These things have been mentioned, written to, and even strongly cautioned to AE...but they don't care. So don't expect it to change.

Another note to remember about AE is if you are changing from OBDII to non-OBD (or vice-versa), after choosing your communications setup, you must EXIT the software and restart it before it will function properly. Yep, straight from their techs....

These couple of quirks trip people up sometimes, but it seems you got past it just fine. Good job

Careful and methodical will get you fixed up in no time

 

Well, there is your smoking gun. When the ICP sensor is unplugged, the PCM defaults to 725psi. So, you clearly have an issue with the ICP sensor and/or connector, and/or a wiring problem in the harness.

Look at the screen shots you posted. You are already logging it. It is just labeled a little different. Its the PID that is reading 4.69% in your screenshots, on the left column of data, Labeled as Injection Control Pressure DUTY CYCLE.

Throw that stupid HPX in the garbage and re-install the factory plugs. I bought that piece of junk too. For 2+ years, no matter what I did, it would always leak a little bit. If that tubes, and its multiple compound bends are not exactly perfect, it will be very difficult to get it to seal.
If you are going to use an HPX, get one of the flexible hose ones, like those offered by CNC Fab.

Again, there is ZERO chance you actually have 3500 psi ICP, at idle. It is physically impossible. The pump can't move that much oil at idle.


Could still be bad, even with no oil in it. I would just go ahead and replace the ICP and IPR pigtails to be sure. They're fairly cheap; about $20 or so. Just be sure to do a good job on splicing the wires, and be sure to seal the splices with heat shrink tubes.

 

Either the tune is bad, the connection between the PCM and chip is bad, or the ICP sensor is bad. I find it odd that the problem pops up like a prairie dog when the tune is switched to fast idle.

Like carguy3j mentioned, Injector Control Pressure Duty Cycle is the % number we're looking for, but the Ford Powerstroke nomenclature for that is Injector Pressure Regulator (IPR). AE doesn't work on behalf of Ford - it's software that works on many modern brands of motor vehicles. So... sometimes AE calls something different than what the manufacturer does.

These might help: [LINK] [LINK]

 

It isn't frowned upon here to mention vendors. Many times it is helpful as each vendor- hardware or tuner- has their strengths and quirks, which are usually well known and can be used as part of the solution to problems.

We do make an effort not to be unfairly critical, but very straightforward and honest. It is up to the vendor(s) to offer and maintain properly configured kits, quality control, and customer satisfaction.

Some are more consistent than others. Most step up and help solve customers' problems. Sometimes a vendor is not responsive (for example, there is a certain kit out there where the vendor doesn't provide the correct mounting hardware, rather requires the customer to make modifications to their trucks to use, but doesn't disclose it and in fact still references the correct hardware in their instructions but does not include it).

But members disclose that info and contact the vendor. The vendor refuses to address this problem, so it becomes a caveat emptor for potential customers to either buy the kit "as-is" and make their own hardware for it, modify their rigs in a specific way to accommodate the kit, or not purchase the kit.

It is a strength of this site- helping others avoid being surprised in a negative way.

Full Force Diesel just recently had another customer who received an injector + tunes kit, had lots of trouble, and after folks here helped dig into the issues and suggested he contact FFD, he learned that there were other "correct" tunes that are unique to the Excursion vs pickup truck.

He worked with the vendor to get the new tunes. Simple

A vendor who works with a customer to resolve an issue often gets MORE business as a trusted vendor- even if they were "at fault" initially. Our forum here is dedicated to SOLUTIONS.

So don't be shy. It's okay (and preferred) to disclose vendors, as long as your comments are fair and based on fact. It is good form to post a followup after a problem is solved (or not) and give credit or criticism where it fairly belongs.

AE is an example. It has strengths and significant weaknesses, and the company support is virtually useless. Nonetheless, it is a helpful tool that many of us use. But when a fair replacement comes along, AE won't be a favorite on the forum any more- and the vendor doesn't care.

It looks like you're getting good advice and are on the right path. Hopefully the solution is very close