With no ballast wire in play the coil terminals should read 0 volts, KO, EO....yes, that is correct.

That connection (top two pictures) does look like it's seen better days.. ARRRRGH! You just might have found another part of the illness, Dr. Meow!

The third picture of the connection doesn't look too healthy, either....but if it cleans up nicely....well, let 'er rip.

Something about having clean, corrosion/grime free connections is always a good thing.

Ahhh, Previous Owner Syndrome strikes again!

 

Well Filthybeast, when you're right you're right. Finished redoing the plugs and put the new resistor wire in and it started right up!

Infinite thanks to you and the others who helped. If you're ever in Washington state near Everett give me a shout and the beers are on me.

I can't believe it started without even giving it gas. I thought for sure this carb was gonna need love next but it idles so well I'm tempted not to futz with it.

Exhaust leak and a deep clean plus some finalized wiring is up next.

 

Well, judging by FB's stated specifications, you did not waste your time. Your .7 is out of spec.

I'd have to say it's just the fickle nature of resistors.
First, remember that they are not lowering voltage until there is a load placed on it. So often as not you will get a 12v reading on a fully functioning resistor for the first few moments at least. And if the distributor trigger is in just the right position and the ignition has no load on it, it might take awhile to build up it's full resistance and lower the voltage to what you expect.
But because your resistor wire was not at it's full rated ohm level, you were seeing higher voltage than would otherwise be the case.
Of course, that could all be nonsense and I don't know what I'm talking about. Wouldn't be the first time...
But I've seen some pretty weird goings-on with resistor wires over the years. So I can probably make up just about any story and it would turn out to be true for someone!

Are you saying your cylinder can come out when it's pushed all the way to the START position? Or is it when you back it up past ACC?

Prove out is not the same as the position to remove the cylinder on most switches. It's the START position, and basically grounds to the dash through the switch. On some, such as the Early Bronco switches, it's literally a terminal on the outside of the connector right on the body of the switch.
Also called "proof out" sometimes, as FB said it's to test lights. In the case of lots of Fords it's for the Brake Warning lamp on the dash.
But even in vehicles without any lights, they tended to use the same switch for all vehicles of the era whether they needed that position or not.
So it might test the lamps, or it might be redundant and unused.
I know your guys already worked that subject over, but figured I'd add some of that fluff in case it helped in the future.

Besides, I've been missing out on all the fun and wanted to hear myself talk again!

Congrats on getting it running! Woohoo indeed!

Paul

 

Ahhh...music to the ears...even with that exhaust leak!

Glad you got it straightened out

 

Different wire- that is the one AFTER the splice to the coil, and that should be essentially 0 but with cold temps within the tol. Of the normal resistance in the wire. The ballast one i cut out repeatedly measured 1.7 ohms, only .2 ohms out of spec, but thats apparently all it takes or it was a wire in the lower engine loom that was bad, i replaced both at the same time so its hard to say which it was or some.combo of the two.

Again different wire i was reporting back on but I see what you're saying.

No I think you're bang on about resistors just getting weird in old age. Ive had it happen on many many many aircraft.


No if i rotate it all the way counter clockwise, away from start, it will still pop out of I pull the key without depressing the locking pin is what I mean. The other positions seem fine.

​​​​​​On my switch, I have off, on, start clockwise and off, acc and "falls out" lol

I assumed that the acc is "prove out"?