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Engine Removal Thread! (With humor and sadness)

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  #31  
Old 12-17-2017, 11:07 AM
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This thread kicks azz man. I could go on and on, but it's nice to see someone doing a complete job and fixing another idiot's mess-ups. We are built the same regarding this. That crap would drive me nuts! That is why I never buy "modded" trucks. Most don't care to do a good job. They just want it to be cool and go fast with no thought given to integrity of the work done. Props and following.
 
  #32  
Old 12-17-2017, 11:19 AM
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And just focus on one thing at a time and TAKE YOUR TIME. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.
 
  #33  
Old 12-17-2017, 11:32 AM
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29 days is cutting it really close, depending on the machine shop ive had local machine shops take up too 3 weeks to prep an engine for me.
 
  #34  
Old 12-17-2017, 11:42 AM
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AK and no snow? I'll just add two things...I have heard that there is no exhaust manifold gasket from the factory but they are available for retrofit. Sous and Skyskijason can give you the lowdown on a tube down the back of your engine to route the top side oil drain past your clutch, that is one very good mod.
 
  #35  
Old 12-17-2017, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Sous and Skyskijason can give you the lowdown on a tube down the back of your engine to route the top side oil drain past your clutch, that is one very good mod.

I'd like to know about that mod. Sure would make it easier (and cleaner) to troubleshoot leaks
 
  #36  
Old 12-17-2017, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper
I'd like to know about that mod. Sure would make it easier (and cleaner) to troubleshoot leaks
I'm sure Sous will be along soon enough and show you, it's not needed on the AT's because we don't have a clutch to ruin with oil.
 
  #37  
Old 12-17-2017, 12:59 PM
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I did a complete engine rebuild on my truck two years ago... and i would agree that 29 days would be really tight to get her done without a few all-nighters. It took my maching shop 7 days to have my block done. If she was running fine and not blowing bluish smoke i think you will be Ok with your current pistons and rings.

Once you open up the oil Pan you will get to see your cylinder walls and what state they are in. More than likely they are good to go as is.

If i were in your shoes i would do the following:

Oil Cooler rebuild
New Cups
New Oil pump and Seal
Main Seal
Re-seal everything else.

Maybe i would get the heads off and have them rebuild.... but that's a maybe.
 
  #38  
Old 12-17-2017, 01:04 PM
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By the looks of things he could swap in the engine out of the other truck in a couple of hours if he got caught in a pinch.
 
  #39  
Old 12-17-2017, 01:15 PM
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Injector cups. Lots of cleaning and once installed, 24hr wait, above a certain temp, for them to cure. 27.5 days.
 
  #40  
Old 12-17-2017, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Although it looks okay in the pic, it would be about an hour or less to pull the oil cooler and rebuild it with new orings and gaskets, since the motor is out.

Oil in coolant is the risk otherwise. Unless it has been redone already?

29 days is SHORT TIME, considering shipping times to Alaska

Really like all the pics and the lightning speed you're working at it
Thanks, at this point I'm going to replace and reseal the oil cooler while I'm standing here.

Originally Posted by BBslider001
This thread kicks azz man. I could go on and on, but it's nice to see someone doing a complete job and fixing another idiot's mess-ups. We are built the same regarding this. That crap would drive me nuts! That is why I never buy "modded" trucks. Most don't care to do a good job. They just want it to be cool and go fast with no thought given to integrity of the work done. Props and following.
I'd be upset if I hadn't known that I'd be going through this experience. I'm a bit bummed at some of the crap work that I've found, but I'm happier to be finding it now then on the side of the road in Mexico.

Originally Posted by z31freakify
29 days is cutting it really close, depending on the machine shop ive had local machine shops take up too 3 weeks to prep an engine for me.
This is a concern. I'd just love to have it done 100% right but I also know that is pushing my luck with the holidays here.

Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
AK and no snow? I'll just add two things...I have heard that there is no exhaust manifold gasket from the factory but they are available for retrofit. Sous and Skyskijason can give you the lowdown on a tube down the back of your engine to route the top side oil drain past your clutch, that is one very good mod.
I'll be looking to do that while I'm here.

Originally Posted by UcaN
I did a complete engine rebuild on my truck two years ago... and i would agree that 29 days would be really tight to get her done without a few all-nighters. It took my maching shop 7 days to have my block done. If she was running fine and not blowing bluish smoke i think you will be Ok with your current pistons and rings.

Once you open up the oil Pan you will get to see your cylinder walls and what state they are in. More than likely they are good to go as is.

If i were in your shoes i would do the following:

Oil Cooler rebuild
New Cups
New Oil pump and Seal
Main Seal
Re-seal everything else.

Maybe i would get the heads off and have them rebuild.... but that's a maybe.
Absolutely planning on these things while I'm here.

Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Injector cups. Lots of cleaning and once installed, 24hr wait, above a certain temp, for them to cure. 27.5 days.
I haven't even added that I'm going to Atlanta for a week.



My goal is to have everything planned out or ordered by tomorrow and give everything time to make its way. Then we wage complete war. Every day, for a couple of hours, something gets installed on the truck.
 
  #41  
Old 12-17-2017, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Quick444
Thanks, at this point I'm going to replace and reseal the oil cooler while I'm standing here.
You already have the oring kit and gaskets for the ends?

Be firm but not destructive. Some have broken the ends, but not many.

I thoroughly flushed the center tubes with water, then acetone to get rid of all the water.

 
  #42  
Old 12-17-2017, 03:25 PM
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Glad your changing the HPOP. Those back plates do leak sometimes where the snap ring is. Being you don't know where your leak was, it won't hurt. Who's HPOP are you using? Good luck in Mexico when you get there.
 
  #43  
Old 12-17-2017, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper
You already have the oring kit and gaskets for the ends?

Be firm but not destructive. Some have broken the ends, but not many.

I thoroughly flushed the center tubes with water, then acetone to get rid of all the water.

I did not specifically mean while I'm in the garage today, but while I have the motor right here, yes.

Originally Posted by Bonanza35
Glad your changing the HPOP. Those back plates do leak sometimes where the snap ring is. Being you don't know where your leak was, it won't hurt. Who's HPOP are you using? Good luck in Mexico when you get there.
Haven't really read into any of the after market options. Clay sells a Terminator option so I was just going to go with that. Anyone who can have one back to me soon, is my best option.


After getting some sleep, I think I'm going to cool my jets on rebuilding a motor that doesn't need it.

I may have the injectors bench tested and just reseal the motor.

New starter, batteries, glow plugs, gaskets, oil cool, HPOP, injector cups, o-rings, and a couple other odds and ends, should have this girl ready for the next 10 years of service.
 
  #44  
Old 12-17-2017, 04:13 PM
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UVCH

Check your alternator, starter, and batteries before you go. Transmission flush? Change fluid in rear differential? Brakes?
 
  #45  
Old 12-17-2017, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper
UVCH

Check your alternator, starter, and batteries before you go. Transmission flush? Change fluid in rear differential? Brakes?
Those are on the list. The alternator is new, but I'd like to go ahead and eat the bullet on batteries and starter. ZF6 will have new fluid in it. Planning on new brake pads as well.
 


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