So, the last several weeks, (once it started getting good and cold here in NC, shocking I know), my ole truck has started being cranky with it's starting.


When I turn the key, I get several clicks (like the battery is dead), before it starts cranking. Then after some (what seems like) slow cranks it'll fire up.


I figure, "okay, the battery I didn't replace last year is going out."

Have em tested, and no, they're good.

"okay, starter is wore out"

Pull it, take to alternator/starter shop for bench test and possible rebuild.

Get the call several hours later, "starter is done, I tested it, inspected windings etc, it's in good condition, don't need to rebuild it."



I just picked it up, haven't reinstalled it yet, so if there's any bench tests you can recommend before putting it back, lemme know.


it seems to me like batteries and starter are my only real possible culprits, but if they're good, Idk.


Thoughts? Thanks guys.

Stephen.

 

Clean all the connections on the batts, ground connections as well.

 

A couple of things to check.

Voltage. What is the voltage of your batteries before and during cranking?

Clean your battery terminals and posts.

Clean your large and small cables to the starter and to/from the starter solenoid.

Did the shop test your starter solenoid? (Is it mounted on the starter or fender?)

There is also a starter relay in the fuse box, at least on my Excursion. I swapped it with the one for the trailer/towing charge circuit as a test when my starter was dying.

I don't put much faith in box store battery testing. They are NOT a true load test, rather an interpolation. I've had SEVERAL batteries "yup, tests fine, here is your printout" but fail an actual load test. I own my own tester after that happened a while back.

Make sure your starter to motor surface is clean and the bolts are tight. That is where it gets its ground.

Take a voltage reading between the terminals of your battery and then from the positive terminal of the battery to a good spot on the MOTOR. Go out to 100ths place and see what the difference is. Too much means you have bad/rusty grounds somewhere.

Hopefully this gets you started (pun!) LOL

 

I would only ever replace the batteries in pairs on these rigs.

 

Disconnect the relay/Solenoid from the Starter and cycle it ten times using a Battery Charger or Battery. If it even hesitates one time, replace it. I have a Diagnostic Tester that does it automatically and deems it "Good" or "Bad". This way, if it is the Solenoid, you won't have to remove it to check/replace it later.

 

So, put the starter back on yesterday, cleaned and wirebrushed all the connections, etc.

While I was at it I redid the battery clamps (previous owner had done a less than stellar job with em). Cleaned the terminals really well, and hooked it all back up.

Starter is now spinning faster than it has since I bought the truck. Don't know if it came from the battery Connections, or if the shop did something with it, or what, but it's very happy now.

 

I don't disagree with that philosophy, but I don't have the money laying around right now to replace something that is still operating well.

It's one of those things I wish I could have done, but if the truck runs without me replacing it, then I can't spend that money.

 

That's a WIN!!!

It's amazing what a dull surface on a terminal will do. Strange thing is the problem won't always show up as a significant voltage drop with a DVOM, but under big amp draw like the starter, the decrease is painfully obvious.

Shiny connectors = Happy connectors

 

I should point out that one important factor is commonly missed, just as it received no mention in this thread before now - the battery ground connections to the block. Some time back, I ohmed out each battery ground cable to the block, and found the driver-side ground cable had a bad connection. The passenger side cable was fine, but I pulled both cables off the block and gave everything a real good cleaning. It made a big difference with the speed of the starter and the volts reading while cranking.

 

I did this last year as well. It really is quite easy to remove them, clean them and re-install them. I was not having problems with mine, but it is good peace of mind and now I know they should be good for many years to come.

 

That's actually next on my list. I wanted to do it while I was doing the rest, but my wife was standing there waiting for me to be done so I could take the baby, lol. It turned over really well, and I was like "alright, I'm done for now I guess".

 

How do you guys like checking your voltage while cranking and such? Just multimeter on the battery while cranking? Or I've also seen little modules you plug into a cigarette lighter that display current voltage, do those work good for that type of thing?

 

My Tekonsha P3 has a battery meter included within the display options. If/when I want to check the voltage, I do it with the Tekonsha.

 

I have one in my cigarette lighter and I like it, it tells me all about what's going on, when the glow plugs are running, what voltage the batteries are sitting at cold, when the alternator is charging and if the alternator goes south it will tell me that too. I went the cheap route and mine gives off a little heat and heat=electrical parasitic drain so I unplug it when I get park the truck. There are some more expensive LED versions out there that could probably be left plugged in all the time.