No start after engine is warm and driven to temperature.
#1
12-13-2017, 01:25 AM
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No start after engine is warm and driven to temperature.
I have a 1987 F150 XLT lariat with the 5.0 302 efi. About a week ago I drive to the store shut it off and came back out and it will turn over like normal and it won’t start. Let it sit for a few hours (length of time depends on how long it was driven I assume) I can start it back to back until it gets to operating temp
had it towed home and soon as it was off the roll back fired right up,
any suggestions on what might be the culprit here, I’ve searched and apologize if this has already been answered but I can’t seem to find the right thread.
Ive read it’s he starter not having a heat shield (which it turns over just fine even in no start condition)
i read it could be the TFI module which I’ve read it can’t be as well.
it has fuel pressure not I haven’t hooked my gauge up yet but I here the pumps running and what’s confusing is it’ll run when cold but not when hot never heard a fuel pump run sometimes and not normally it works or doesn’t.
Any help will will be deeply appreciated!
had it towed home and soon as it was off the roll back fired right up,
any suggestions on what might be the culprit here, I’ve searched and apologize if this has already been answered but I can’t seem to find the right thread.
Ive read it’s he starter not having a heat shield (which it turns over just fine even in no start condition)
i read it could be the TFI module which I’ve read it can’t be as well.
it has fuel pressure not I haven’t hooked my gauge up yet but I here the pumps running and what’s confusing is it’ll run when cold but not when hot never heard a fuel pump run sometimes and not normally it works or doesn’t.
Any help will will be deeply appreciated!
#3
12-13-2017, 08:55 PM
Fleet Mechanic
I have a 1987 F150 XLT lariat with the 5.0 302 efi. About a week ago I drive to the store shut it off and came back out and it will turn over like normal and it won’t start. Let it sit for a few hours (length of time depends on how long it was driven I assume) I can start it back to back until it gets to operating temp
had it towed home and soon as it was off the roll back fired right up,
any suggestions on what might be the culprit here, I’ve searched and apologize if this has already been answered but I can’t seem to find the right thread.
Ive read it’s he starter not having a heat shield (which it turns over just fine even in no start condition)
i read it could be the TFI module which I’ve read it can’t be as well.
it has fuel pressure not I haven’t hooked my gauge up yet but I here the pumps running and what’s confusing is it’ll run when cold but not when hot never heard a fuel pump run sometimes and not normally it works or doesn’t.
Any help will will be deeply appreciated!
had it towed home and soon as it was off the roll back fired right up,
any suggestions on what might be the culprit here, I’ve searched and apologize if this has already been answered but I can’t seem to find the right thread.
Ive read it’s he starter not having a heat shield (which it turns over just fine even in no start condition)
i read it could be the TFI module which I’ve read it can’t be as well.
it has fuel pressure not I haven’t hooked my gauge up yet but I here the pumps running and what’s confusing is it’ll run when cold but not when hot never heard a fuel pump run sometimes and not normally it works or doesn’t.
Any help will will be deeply appreciated!
I again with Conanski,
It sounds like you could be missing spark, due to a bad coil, distributor stator, TFI Ignition module, or ignition harness wire or connector that starts opening up and separating the connection when it is hot. Make sure you have a good battery with clean connectors, and good, tight under the hood grounds. In a no start condition, and you know you're getting fuel, I would check for spark and troubleshoot from there.
#4
12-16-2017, 02:07 AM
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I again with Conanski,
It sounds like you could be missing spark, due to a bad coil, distributor stator, TFI Ignition module, or ignition harness wire or connector that starts opening up and separating the connection when it is hot. Make sure you have a good battery with clean connectors, and good, tight under the hood grounds. In a no start condition, and you know you're getting fuel, I would check for spark and troubleshoot from there.
It sounds like you could be missing spark, due to a bad coil, distributor stator, TFI Ignition module, or ignition harness wire or connector that starts opening up and separating the connection when it is hot. Make sure you have a good battery with clean connectors, and good, tight under the hood grounds. In a no start condition, and you know you're getting fuel, I would check for spark and troubleshoot from there.
I just replaced the TFI “ignition control module” still no fix. Battery is new connections are good terminals were replaced with battery. I haven’t had the chance to check for spark while in no start condition! Plan on that when I get home from work in it I know it’ll be in not start state after a 20 minute drive to home. All grounds are good clean and tight, no connectors are bad or damaged I checked everything best I could which I’ll do again tomorrow to recheck my work! Thing is driving me up the wall, I can pretty much guarantee it doesn’t have spark when in no start condition I noticed today you could smell fuel when I tried to start it after I replaced the TFI and let it reach operating temp. I’m very mechanically incline but this things got me stumped and I’m sure it’s right in my face what it is. I drive it to work today and it runs like a top until you shut her down and she will not start until it’s coolled down everything I’ve found has pointed towards the TFI but no fix there. I’ll verfiy the no spark soon as I get home and go from there any more suggestions send them my way thanks for the input
#5
12-18-2017, 11:13 AM
Hotshot
Did you use heat sink compound on the back of the replacement TFI? Heat sink compound is very different from dielectric grease, which should not be used.
Definitely verify what the spark is doing when the no start condition returns. The other frequent root cause is a faulty "stator" (aka PIP) inside the distributor.
Some good info here: Stator
Definitely verify what the spark is doing when the no start condition returns. The other frequent root cause is a faulty "stator" (aka PIP) inside the distributor.
Some good info here: Stator
#6
11-10-2018, 01:13 PM
Ditto
89 f150 i6
same problem, and its killing me. New starter, selenoid, terminal wires, ignition coil, nothing wrong with timing belt. Took it to place that specializes in electrical and they changed out some wires, worked for 2 weeks than came back. If you get this fixed please let me know.
same problem, and its killing me. New starter, selenoid, terminal wires, ignition coil, nothing wrong with timing belt. Took it to place that specializes in electrical and they changed out some wires, worked for 2 weeks than came back. If you get this fixed please let me know.
#7
11-19-2018, 11:06 PM
I have heard of a problem similar to yours that was diagnosed as a bad coolant temperature sensor. The sensor failed and read that the engine was cold even though it was warm. Because it thought it was cold, it was adding more fuel to assist in the "cold" start. It basically flooded the engine so after it was shut off it would not restart due to being flooded. The sensor is pretty cheap, usually under $20 so I'd say that sensor is worth checking.
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