Excursion - King of SUVs 2000 - 2005 Ford Excursion
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:04 PM
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just joining the club!

I recently purchased a 2005 excursion xlt 5.4 that has been sitting for over a year. I replaced the battery and alternater and it fired right up but has a miss and some light smoking. Also some electrical issues dash lights are out and rear riding lights were out. I replaced the bulbs and exterior lights fuse and now they are working. There was some burnt places on the break light socket. Looking for advice on what to do next. what should be included in the tune up to start?
 
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Old 12-12-2017, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by excur1
I recently purchased a 2005 excursion xlt 5.4 that has been sitting for over a year. I replaced the battery and alternater and it fired right up but has a miss and some light smoking. ...
Welcome to the forum.
If it's white smoke for just a minute or so after startup it's probably just water vapor.
For the missing you might just need a new set of plugs and boots.
How many miles?
An OBD2 port bluetooth adapter and software like Forscan will help isolate which cylinder is misfiring.
Check the vacuum hoses for soft spots, particularly the PCV line elbow near the throttle body.
My tail light sockets are brown from heat, too.
I tried switching the turn signals to LED bulbs, but the turn signal flasher didn't like it.
Tried the electronic relay style flasher and it didn't work, either.
 

Last edited by R&T Babich; 12-16-2017 at 10:59 AM. Reason: Changed "mechanical" to "electronic relay", not the OEM bi-metal type.
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Old 12-13-2017, 05:51 AM
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A pair of load resistors will make up for the lack of current draw caused by the LED's. Screw them down to some free sheet metal in the taillight housing area away from any wires as the resistors get hot.

 
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Old 12-13-2017, 07:31 AM
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Welcome to the EX forum and family!
Now we need pictures!
Run a scan for codes and misfires, then 8 new boots and plugs would be my first step. If the miss continues swap the identified bad COP to another cylinder and see if the miss travel with it, if so get a new Denso COP to replace it.
Tell us more about the smoke.........white, blue, black........only when cold, on startup, always, on deceleration.....

Is it RWD or 4X4?
 
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 01__Excursion
A pair of load resistors will make up for the lack of current draw caused by the LED's. Screw them down to some free sheet metal in the taillight housing area away from any wires as the resistors get hot. ...
Great drawing, thanks, I may end up having to go that way.
What size resistors and does each bulb get one?
I was trying to avoid this technique because it negates the reduced current load benefit of using LEDs, but it's not a lot of current and it's intermittent.
It's a bit frustrating because the 2003 Exped took the LED bulbs with the mechanical flasher and works fine.
The Excur and Exped circuits are different from the voltages I see at the flasher.
 
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Old 12-13-2017, 05:33 PM
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Old 12-13-2017, 08:18 PM
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Welcome to the Ex family.
 
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:34 PM
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I just swapped the flasher, no issues on my end. Flashers and turn signals work great.

Amazon Amazon
 
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Old 12-14-2017, 03:30 PM
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Unhappy Bigger problems!

thanks for the feed back and advice. The smoke is white and stops after a short drive. But now I have a bigger problem after replacing the brake light bulbs and fuse. I went out this morning and now none of the exterior or dash lights are working. Everything was working fine last start up so Im really at a lost here.
 
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Old 12-14-2017, 07:08 PM
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You likely have a short to ground that is drawing too much current and burning up the fuse. Check all fuses inside and under the hood.
 
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Old 12-14-2017, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Nicmike
You likely have a short to ground that is drawing too much current and burning up the fuse. Check all fuses inside and under the hood.
thanks for the reply any idea where the brake lights are grounded
 
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Old 12-14-2017, 07:51 PM
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It's not a question of where they are grounded in the diagrams/from the factory. You likely have a grounding situation where there should not be one. This is causing the voltage to be "sucked" back to the battery without a load (bulb) and thus tripping the fuse protection to keep stuff from catching fire or melting.

Gotta check the fuses first. It could also be an open circuit where NO voltage/current is flowing at all vs the above too-much-current hypothesis.
 
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Old 12-15-2017, 05:40 AM
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Welcome and good luck; chasing down ground issues is always fun.
 
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Old 12-16-2017, 08:50 AM
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thanks guys finally got an off day so I'm chasing grounds today. will keep you posted
 
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Old 12-16-2017, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by excur1
I recently purchased a 2005 excursion xlt 5.4 that has been sitting for over a year. I replaced the battery and alternater and it fired right up but has a miss and some light smoking. Also some electrical issues dash lights are out and rear riding lights were out. I replaced the bulbs and exterior lights fuse and now they are working. There was some burnt places on the break light socket. Looking for advice on what to do next. what should be included in the tune up to start?
I was going over my lights last night, changing out anything with the T10 socket with a LED T10 light. Found my 3rd brake light had one of the 3 sockets burnt up a bit. All 3 original bulbs had turned silver. So in when 3 standard T10 leds. I also did my running board lights so they are no longer yellow. I see other issues with your lights. You can also try removing light bulbs and see if one got shorted out. I ordered new front and rear Running/turn/stop and backup lights in LED along with a variable speed electronic flasher from Amazon. In my Navigator, several of the interior overhead lights had also burned their sockets and I replaced them with LEDS. I'm going to do the same with the EX and ordered a complete set from Amazon as well. If you do this, check your bulb types as many use the same T10 style base and you can just order an 8 or 10 pack that will fit them all. I saw a video that if you remove the radio, the flasher is down on the left and with a little work you can get to it w/o having to take the dash apart. There are two side by side. If you turn your turn on you will feel it and know which to replace. Else turn on your hazards and that would be the one NOT to replace.
 


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