All right, Chris. Thank you. You've been very helpful.

 

Follow that video you posted, and you should be golden. Only thing I'd do different is put something between the fan and radiator while removing the fan.

 

In the video, the mechanic alludes to the length of the bolts holding the fan to the water pump, saying that removing the bolts cannot be done with the "radiator in place". Is that an oblique way of saying, you must remove the radiator? I ask only because at no point in the video is the radiator detached from the truck. He went into great detail about the steps in removing the obstructive brackets and other parts, but does not address the radiator, so I thought I'd better ask. Wouldn't you remove the radiator immediately after draining it, leaving it off until the very end so as to maximize the space to work in?
Also, if the radiator must be removed, are there any significant do's or don'ts involved?

 

No. You do not need or better yet, I have not needed to remove the radiator. I do agree with mrolling53 that you should put something to protect the rad. Card board, carpet, small child....

 

OK. Thanks. I thought I'd better ask.

 

2X Chris. I always put a thin film of RTV on W/P gaskets. The gaskets do the sealing. The RTV just helps them a little. And do clean the mating surfaces well.

 

Today I ordered a fan shroud from Carpenter, which, according to them, will take 5-7 business days to deliver. I didn't mention the damaged fan shroud in this thread because it was addressed in a previous thread. However, it appears that the fan shroud can neither be removed nor installed with the fan pulley and upper radiator hose in place. So, I'll do the first half of the water pump install: removing the old water pump and and installing the new one, but wait on re-installing the fan pulley and bracketing until I receive the new fan shroud. Then I'll complete the job.

Re: the broken fan shroud. I've been told that broken motor mounts often are the cause of fan hitting the fan shroud. I (and others) checked the motor mounts to see if one (or more) is broken. They check out. The engine does not rock at all under stress, in forward gear or reverse. I'm proceeding with the installation of a new fan shroud, assuming that the loose water pump was the cause of the fan hitting the shroud.

 

Place a block of wood under the harmonic balancer, useing a floor jack, jack the engin up and see if it lifts.

 

I've been stuck for a day now, trying to loosen the bolt with a 5/8 head at the bottom of the alternator. The upper 9/16 bolt loosened with ease.
Some of the things I've tried: PB Blaster--let it set for 24 hours, used a pipe to extend the ratchet for greater leverage; tried both a 3/8 and 1/2 inch ratchet; purchased a blow torch, which I used this afternoon a few times until the bolt was hot--but no luck; tried wax after applying the blow torch.
The bolt head may be rounding, as the sockets are starting to twist around it; this occurred when the bolt head was dry, so lubricants are not the cause of the slippage. I can get a bite with vice grips, but I have to use a small set of vice grips because of limited clearance, hence little or no leverage.
The bolt is obviously in tight; even the vice grip seems to be slipping a little when pressure is applied. Everything I've described, I've done from below the car.
I sprayed on more PB Blaster before giving up for the day. Tomorrow I plan on attacking the problem from above; maybe I can rig something up from that vantage point. Earlier on, before I tried any of the things I described above, I briefly tried unbolting from the top, but thought access would be better from below.
Any thoughts? Ideas?

 

I don’t know if the alt bracket bolt is stopping you from removing the water pump. If it’s not, take the pump off and abandon that bolt and bracket. Brackets should be easy to come by...
Call me if you need too
469-371-5833

 

Chris, thanks for the reply and the offer to help. I'll have to take a look at the alternator's bracket configuration in the morning. The bolt in question is, I believe, the pivot bolt (5/8). My understanding is that loosening this bolt will allow me to slide the alternator over. No part of the bracket is interfering with access to the bolt, from below the car or above. The bolt is just immovable. Tomorrow I'll take a picture from below and above the bolt.
Hopefully, it won't come to having to replace the bracketry. When I tried to find a replacement for the truck's fan shroud, no wrecking yard with 100 miles had a 67-72 Ford truck in their yard. I wound up ordering one from Carpenter's.
I better check the bolts on the power steering bracketing, while I'm at it, there could be a problem there.

 

Try using a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone, on stuck bolts. Is there a nut on the end of that alt. bolt? Or does the bolt screw into the block? If it's got a nut, see if you can get a boxed end wrench (six point is better than a twelve point) on it. Use the vise grips on the already messed up bolt head, and (after lubing it up)try turning the nut. If no nut- lube up the bolt where it enters the alternator and the block, let it soak in for an hour. Tighten up the vise grip as much as you can. Then give it a try- good luck. When you replace that bolt (grade 5) , apply anti-seize where it goes thru the alt. and into the block.

 

Can you pivot the alternator out of the way at the same time that you are turning the bolt in the same direction? That might help loosen it up.

Also, the lower right water pump bolt goes into the water jacket and needs to be sealed. That one bolt was different than the others in that it had a nylon insert in the threads that kept it from leaking.

 

This the really long bolt? Just grind the head off. Though you shouldn't need to remove this to change a water pump. Just let the alt hang from the bolt with whatever bracket is attached to it. Rotate it out of the way while you change the pump.

 

I'm new to this, so I hesitate to say much of anything with certainty. There is no nut. The 5/8 bolt (bottom of alternator) that I refer to must be loosened, not removed, in order to slide the alternator over. I'm not trying to remove the alternator.
I can't turn the bolt at all. I've loosened the upper 9/16 tensioner bolt, but that won't let me remove the alternator belt, nor let me slide the alternator over. That bottom bolt must be loosened for me to continue. If the head of the bolt rounds out any more, I doubt that I would be able to re-bolt it to the proper torque, come time to reconnect the alternator.
I'll try the transmission fluid/acetone mix tomorrow. Thanks to GaryKip, Steve340, and mrollings53.