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Why won't my '92 F250 idle???

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  #46  
Old 02-01-2018, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
You can test your ACT…

Did you ever check for codes ?
i’m working on that right now but in order to test i want the engine to be warm (thats important right?). In doing so i kept it on for a bit and feathered the gas everyso gently which the truck can do now. After maybe a minute, i looked at the fuel gauge which read empty.... im gonna do my best to fill my immobile beast up and report back
 
  #47  
Old 02-01-2018, 06:08 PM
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honestly could it just be a fuel pump? When i pour in fuel it wont go in the tank. It all gathers outside the hole and i have to wait for it to seep down into the tank. I cant put much fuel in this way and as the needles still on empty i can go to a pump...
 
  #48  
Old 02-03-2018, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnG_68
honestly could it just be a fuel pump? When i pour in fuel it wont go in the tank. It all gathers outside the hole and i have to wait for it to seep down into the tank. I cant put much fuel in this way and as the needles still on empty i can go to a pump...
You are getting enough pressure (if the 36 & 38 are constant) for an Idle. So I would not think you have a fuel pump issue to get it to idle.
You may find pressure issues at rpm over 2K.

Do both tanks show empty ? Gage circuit may not be working.

Can you put fuel in one tank properly and not the other ?

Maybe that tank is full.......
 
  #49  
Old 02-03-2018, 10:02 AM
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JohnG -- you and the folks here are getting frustrated. Need to attack this systematically, with a "check list" (for want of a better term). Several have mentioned pulling codes off the EEC-IV (PCM) -- that's essential, here's a framework to use overall. I'm not crazy about those cyl numbers you posted earlier -- typical for an older engine, but one cylinder in particular can be, likely is part of the rough idle problem. Also, pulling those codes will also give insights into whether the basic PCM is functioning properly --- it won't be complete, but often helps us understand its integrity.


 
  #50  
Old 02-03-2018, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnG_68
i’m working on that right now but in order to test i want the engine to be warm (thats important right?).
Yes, you want it warmed up.

You may not be successful with the KOER test if it won't idle on its own, but you can run the KOEO after its warmed up.
 
  #51  
Old 02-03-2018, 11:23 AM
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Also, you mentioned that you replaced the spark plugs, but no mention of Dizzy Cap, Rotor, or Wires.

You should at least pop that cap off and check the condition of the electrodes inside the cap and the rotor itself. Check for play in the Dizzy shaft as well.

Are you getting spark at each of your new spark plugs?
Didn't think to ask what your plugs looked like when you pulled them for the compression test, to check their condition.
 
  #52  
Old 02-09-2018, 10:54 AM
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Ok... so after trying the KOEO test over and over i got nothing. The check engine light won’t blink whatsoever. Prior to the tests however, each morning i would warm the truck for maybe 5 minutes and it would stay firing for a while but white smoke from the exhaust (smelling heavily of gas) would slowly fill the surrounding area. Also, the front take im using is still on empty but i cant really fill gas. I checked the filler hose and it looks to be fine. When i bought the truck a bunch of junk cane with it, but i also found an ecc hiding in the corner. I could try swapping that. Why wont the KOEO test produce codes at all?
 
  #53  
Old 02-09-2018, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnG_68
Ok... so after trying the KOEO test over and over i got nothing. The check engine light won’t blink whatsoever. Prior to the tests however, each morning i would warm the truck for maybe 5 minutes and it would stay firing for a while but white smoke from the exhaust (smelling heavily of gas) would slowly fill the surrounding area. Also, the front take im using is still on empty but i cant really fill gas. I checked the filler hose and it looks to be fine. When i bought the truck a bunch of junk cane with it, but i also found an ecc hiding in the corner. I could try swapping that. Why wont the KOEO test produce codes at all?

First things first... What are you located? Is it cold outside? If so, that would explain your grey smoke when starting up.. Its cold out, your exhaust makes smoke when its cold out.... The first thing you need to do is check for codes... However, if someone inexperienced with Ford EEC-IV equipped vehicles tried setting the timing without removing the SPOUT connecter, the timing will be severely retarded.. It could be enough to make it not idle on a worn engine... just my $.02..
 
  #54  
Old 02-09-2018, 12:08 PM
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What does the fuel pressure do after the engine is turned off? If it falls off like a rock I would suspect an injector stuck open, Flooding the engine and why it won’t run without throttle open.

Had ‘luck’ on a old BroncoII that was running similarly by tapping each injector with a long screwdriver and small hammer while it was running to free them up.
 
  #55  
Old 02-09-2018, 12:27 PM
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It was maybe 60 degrees f outside so not too bad. The smoke just smelled heavily of gas... probably not an issue. I jumped the spout connector for the KOEO but before that it wasnt plugged into anything at all, just hangin. The timings also off potentially off. A lot of stress on the belt as it squeaks hard. I can check the fuel pressure and try that little bronco trick later today.
 
  #56  
Old 02-09-2018, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnG_68
Ok... so after trying the KOEO test over and over i got nothing. Why wont the KOEO test produce codes at all?
Ok, you should try the test light method to check the KOEO self-test.

You will need to record the flashes.

You will need to check for the 5 Volt Reference on the Single Test Connector in the top drawing before you start.


 
  #57  
Old 02-10-2018, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
Ok, you should try the test light method to check the KOEO self-test.

You will need to record the flashes.

You will need to check for the 5 Volt Reference on the Single Test Connector in the top drawing before you start.


ok so i should unplug my battery. Attatch the positive terminal to the 4th pin?
 
  #58  
Old 02-11-2018, 05:40 AM
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No, no need to unplug your battery.

Most Test Lights have an alligator connector for the battery attachment.

Make sure it is a 12v Test Light.

Check for the 12v at the "Test Connector" before you attempt to test. If that is not present the Self-Test will not initiate..
 
  #59  
Old 02-16-2018, 11:49 PM
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Ok the circuit test finally came and tada! It lights up when performing the test. So ill retry the KOEO test tomorrow morning and see if maybe it works this time...
 
  #60  
Old 02-17-2018, 05:37 PM
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Here is another link;
EEC IV Self Test hookup
 


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