distributor hung up
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 59
Likes: 1
distributor hung up
Hi guys,
Anything like this ever happen to you? Trying to take out the distributor for the third time to make timing advance adjustments (lighter springs, switching "L" slots, etc.) but it gets hung up on something. No problem taking it out before. Yes, locking plate and bolt removed. It just lifts up about 1/2" and goes clunk. Had the same challenge getting it IN last time too but not as much as this. I see the rotor rotating as I lift, and it starts out pointing at cyl#1 (about one or two o'clock as you look at the engine) but then just stops like it is hitting metal to metal. Tried lifting but it clunks lifting clunking lifting clunking but just a vicious circle I'm stuck in. I don't want to give any real force. What the heck? Any advice or experience sharing greatly appreciated.
Anything like this ever happen to you? Trying to take out the distributor for the third time to make timing advance adjustments (lighter springs, switching "L" slots, etc.) but it gets hung up on something. No problem taking it out before. Yes, locking plate and bolt removed. It just lifts up about 1/2" and goes clunk. Had the same challenge getting it IN last time too but not as much as this. I see the rotor rotating as I lift, and it starts out pointing at cyl#1 (about one or two o'clock as you look at the engine) but then just stops like it is hitting metal to metal. Tried lifting but it clunks lifting clunking lifting clunking but just a vicious circle I'm stuck in. I don't want to give any real force. What the heck? Any advice or experience sharing greatly appreciated.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 22
From: Lacey, WA
Hum,.... not sure why it is not pulling out ....
On another note though.... I can't see any need to completely remove the Dissy to perform the Mods that you state you want to complete.
These should be able to perform while still installed... at least that is how I did them.
On another note though.... I can't see any need to completely remove the Dissy to perform the Mods that you state you want to complete.
These should be able to perform while still installed... at least that is how I did them.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 299
From: Kenner,La.
Distributor
The only thing that may be the problem is the oil pump drive rod has worn a “step” inside the distributor shaft. The retaining washer is stopping the shaft from lifting. You may have to remove the oil pan and the oil pump. If you overcome the hold of the retaining washer it will let the rod fall into the oil pan and you will have to drop the pan anyway.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 59
Likes: 1
Well I gave just gave it some time and the next morning just put it back in and connected the wires and started it up to circulate the oil and warm it up a little and that did the trick. Still, as it came out it just barley let out. Not stiff to turn or anything but it was like an imaginary pin let loose allowing it to come out of the bore. Probably a tight fit because of the oil pump hex shaft in the end.
Right I can do the mods with it installed in the truck but back and eyesight not like before.
Thank you for the input!
Right I can do the mods with it installed in the truck but back and eyesight not like before.
Thank you for the input!
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 59
Likes: 1
On that note is it possible to install the distributor and have it be a tooth off and still idle? It idles rough and with the new vacuum advance springs I installed and the distributor is twisted more than usual in order to get to 8-10* BTDC.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Kenner,La.
Distributor
When the distributor is seated right the vacuum advance should point straight ahead.
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 59
Likes: 1
Still, just theoretically, it would be obvious if I was off one tooth no? Silly question, silly answers OK. It idles and revs but something is off a little bit with the timing curve because of the vacuum advance adjustment in the canister - it rotates the plates but curve not like where it was before because I changed the springs and the adjustment to try to get advance all in at 3000 rpm 38* but depends on the canister mostly first for some reason
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
It matters not, the distributor doesn't care. The #1 cylinder designation on the distributor cap is arbitrary. Pick one. Just so long as the plug wires are in firing order, everything is groovy.
But where you can run into trouble, is if the distributor body can't be rotated far enough to achieve the correct ignition timing, the vaccum can hitting something say.
But where you can run into trouble, is if the distributor body can't be rotated far enough to achieve the correct ignition timing, the vaccum can hitting something say.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 7
From: Gainesville, GA
The vacuum advance line needs to be plugged when testing. All the vacuum advance does is increase the timing for better mileage when cruising. Hint, every time after installing the distributor check the oil pressure.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2017
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Right you guys. Thanks Alex from GA and Tedster9 yes the canister is starting to hit so it is off one tooth, thanks for that, so now I know. It still idles but canister hits limiting adjustment range.
Thanks Alex from GA, I agree with you. So why is it that the centrifical weights only increase advance to like 28* advance and then bogs. And that is with the looser springs. But when I connect the vacuum line everything advances to the proper limit like 38* (as long as I adjust the allen screw to that limit and make sure it is still a decent idle 5-10*) IS it because it is a truck designed for load where vacuum and throttle position are really important and also because I am researching hot rod type set-ups. (like the looser advance springs I got)
Thanks Alex from GA, I agree with you. So why is it that the centrifical weights only increase advance to like 28* advance and then bogs. And that is with the looser springs. But when I connect the vacuum line everything advances to the proper limit like 38* (as long as I adjust the allen screw to that limit and make sure it is still a decent idle 5-10*) IS it because it is a truck designed for load where vacuum and throttle position are really important and also because I am researching hot rod type set-ups. (like the looser advance springs I got)
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 7
From: Gainesville, GA
Brian, The vacuum advance needs to be out of the equation when setting the timing. If you want 38* total you must adjust the initial lead to what ever it needs to get the total. 8-12* initial @ idle should be about right. The distributor weight stops might need to be changed. If you have access to an old school Sun Distributor machine that's the best/easiest way to set it up. As I said before, all the vacuum advance is there for better mileage.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Originally Posted by Alex from GA
As I said before, all the vacuum advance is there for better mileage.
Especially on level ground, engine load is low, RPM lower, more so in high gear. Vacuum advance + the mechanical advance will run smoother, and cooler in hot weather, and better part throttle acceleration. Retarded ignition timing wastes gas out the tailpipe.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2017
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Was going to take the distributor out again to change those advance springs out but it got hung up again - comes out 1/2" and goes clunk. Not stiff when turning. For sure it is the hex shaft to the oil pump stuck inside the distributor shaft end. I noticed when it was out the last time that at one point the hex shaft was misaligned and crossed because there were dimples on the lands of the hex were the oil pump shaft goes in. If I get it out again I will file those flat on the inside of the hex with a points file. Just hope a little time and some warm up will let it loose again. Just hope the retainer clip on the hex shaft holds up with all the gentle thunking in and out that I have been giving it. Has newer oil pump and shaft, maybe casting is off and it is slightly misaligned with distributor shaft causing it to "grab" the inside distributor shaft. Can't help over thinking this...