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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

commonality/usability

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Old 12-07-2017, 07:46 PM
Downsview Downsview is offline
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Thank you, Ultraranger. Your photos and parts numbers and sources are very helpful, and I'll gladly except your advice. And I live in the Dallas area. And you know because you have already done the parts swap. And what a great impression it is under the hood, not to mention the improved braking capacity.
I didn't mean to kick off such a torrid verbal response. If someone needs to ask why anyone would make such changes, then maybe they wouldn't understand my personal reasons. The CV is a bolt in fit. They cost about $350.
Not much more than a disc brake conversion. So you get the same result. Better brakes. But you also get independent suspension, power rack and pinion steering, for better road feel and accurate steering responses. All those shiny new Ford pickups come built from the factory that way. They gave up on the twin I-beam years ago. And by the way, I started pumping gas, checking oil, and cleaning windshields when I was 16, in 1955.
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Old 12-07-2017, 08:24 PM
6t6merc 6t6merc is offline
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I'm with you, Mr. D.
I plan a CV swap, either both front and rear, or CV front and Mk8 rear. I hesitate to chop up my shorty but I have my eye on a straight f250 that nobody cares about too much. I'd like to have one of each, restore one and use the other. I live in a big city. Drivers are going 80mph bumper to bumper and then standing on the brakes. An old pickup just isn't practical, or safe. I'm also attracted to the fuel efficiency of the modern engines, which is not to say I like anything else about them. Yesterday I paid $1.65 per litre for alcohol-free 91 fuel. (We have the most expensive gas in North America.) I hope you do what you want to do. There are many of us on FTE who will help you get where you want to go.
Eric
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Old 12-08-2017, 03:53 PM
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Thank you, 6t6 merc. You are absolutely right, about the safety aspect of driving an older vehicle in todays traffic. Interestingly I lived in Abbottsford, B.C. for a while, and used to go to Sumas for gas, and Bellingham for groceries.
The posts including pics and parts I need are invaluable. I'll be looking for them starting next week. That's what is so great about being a part of a very large and knowledgeable group, and people willing to share their projects.
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Old 12-08-2017, 04:48 PM
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Not to further add to the downplaying of your plan, but rather a friendly heads up. You use the phrase "bolt in". I did some research for my wife's truck and from what I have read, the CV swap takes a fair degree of welding and frame modification before it is ready to just bolt in. Anything with frame mods is not what I would call bolt in. This may be a difference in phrasing, but I just don't want to see someone end up with more than they bargained for. The frame mods seem pretty minor and after that, it does sound pretty straightforward. I hope that's what you meant, otherwise you might want to read up a bit more before you jump in both feet.
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Old 12-08-2017, 04:58 PM
6t6merc 6t6merc is offline
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Yeah, you're right Jeremy, but if all the ducks were put in a row, a guy could pay a welder for a few hours work. There's also a kit available so I guess you can get that and pay the welder. I bought a small welder and plan to learn to use it on a few projects that can't hurt anyone before I do a suspension, but most of us know a welder who can look over our shoulders.
I have read pretty much everything posted here and the other sites. The only part I'm not too sure about is the mount for the CV trailing arm/radius arm and the effect it has on wheel alignment.
Eric
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Old 12-08-2017, 06:28 PM
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That's pretty much where I was stuck too, but the boss vetoed the idea entirely which made my life easier. She actually likes it that it drives like an old truck. I found me a keeper.
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Old 12-08-2017, 09:04 PM
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Hi wyrm73. I used the term bolt in loosely because the CV cross member is attached to the frame with 4 bolts through the cross member and frame, and
attached with 4 nuts on the upper portion of the cross member. Agreed that there is a fair amount of fabrication just to get the twin I beam out and the cross member removed. After that there are many videos of this installation that show in great detail the methods to locate the axle center-line, and drill the alignment hole in the lower frame, that accurately locates the pin in the CV cross member, that ensures that the axle center alignment will be achieved.
I've seen videos of guys using air-chisels and others using plasma cutters. They use what tools they have available, and works for them. Please don't take my intentions lightly with this project. My family will be riding in this vehicle.
I'm not building this to enter a demolition derby, and last one race.
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