New amp and audio interface choices
#17
they tried the pac audio on my new system . nothing worked as factory . navigation , reverse warnings , cell phone nada . went with Rockford fosgate interface solved all the problems .at this time that's the only rout available . as the amp controles a lot of fuctions on the sync system .. beware .. theres a thread on here already details upgrading, dsr 1 from fosgate has some nice options also these systems .rf dsr 1 , arc audio 1200 /6 , morel tempo ultras components up front , morel tempos in the rear doors , and 2, 10 slim line jl audios subs , system rocks ,clean , and thousand times improvement over stock , now same for the duelly .
#18
Here is what I put in my truck:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794HAR...mnews=14622500
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575DSR...mnews=14622500
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X80...on-X801-5.html
As far as I am aware the iDatalink Maestro harness is compatible with all Ford trucks with the Sony system. A few companies make replacement subs for people who wish to reuse the existing sub box, but it is definitely a shallow mount situation. Take the three plugs off the Sony amp and plug them into the Maestro harness. Two go from the new harness to the DSR1 and the third goes to the speaker outputs on the amp. Output RCAs on the DSR1 go to the inputs on the amp. Really easy to do since the plugs are color coordinated. Before you can use the DSR1 you have to use the included usb cable and plug it into you computer and update the firmware using the Rockford Fosgate DSR update software from their website. Once you do that you have to go to iDatalink's website and "flash" your DSR1 and input your desired settings. Only issue I had was that iDatalink's flash process uses ActiveX controls in your browser which aren't supported by any of the current browsers so you have to go old school Internet Explorer. In IE settings, remove any and all ActiveX blockers and safety features. The next big step after you have all your new speakers, sub, etc installed is to equalize your sound channels and such. You do this via the Rockford Perfect Tune app on your smartphone which connects to the DSR1 via bluetooth. I used a second smartphone with an RTA app on it to analyze a pink noise track I played in the truck via USB stick. This process took me about 2 hours to get everything adjusted to my tastes. There are plenty of online resources that can explain this process a lot better than I can.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794HAR...mnews=14622500
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575DSR...mnews=14622500
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X80...on-X801-5.html
As far as I am aware the iDatalink Maestro harness is compatible with all Ford trucks with the Sony system. A few companies make replacement subs for people who wish to reuse the existing sub box, but it is definitely a shallow mount situation. Take the three plugs off the Sony amp and plug them into the Maestro harness. Two go from the new harness to the DSR1 and the third goes to the speaker outputs on the amp. Output RCAs on the DSR1 go to the inputs on the amp. Really easy to do since the plugs are color coordinated. Before you can use the DSR1 you have to use the included usb cable and plug it into you computer and update the firmware using the Rockford Fosgate DSR update software from their website. Once you do that you have to go to iDatalink's website and "flash" your DSR1 and input your desired settings. Only issue I had was that iDatalink's flash process uses ActiveX controls in your browser which aren't supported by any of the current browsers so you have to go old school Internet Explorer. In IE settings, remove any and all ActiveX blockers and safety features. The next big step after you have all your new speakers, sub, etc installed is to equalize your sound channels and such. You do this via the Rockford Perfect Tune app on your smartphone which connects to the DSR1 via bluetooth. I used a second smartphone with an RTA app on it to analyze a pink noise track I played in the truck via USB stick. This process took me about 2 hours to get everything adjusted to my tastes. There are plenty of online resources that can explain this process a lot better than I can.
#19
#20
I ended up going with a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 using an iDatalink Ford harness. Sony amp comes out completely this way and replaced it with a Kenwood Excelon 5 channel. Replaced door speakers with RF 6.5s and replaced the Sony sub with a RF shallow mount 8". Only thing I did with the stock sub box was fill it with poly. I went this route so everything was pretty much plug and play, only had to run a new 2 gauge power wire and fuse from the battery to the amp. The DSR1 software is kind of a pain to figure out, but it wasn't too bad. Spent more time setting up the equalizer settings in the software than installing everything.
#21
#22
GABAR - thanks for the suggestions. I was looking at the JL 5 channel amp yesterday. I had considered Kenwood Excelon (sp?) amp, but it requires the idatalink interface and they evidently don't have a version that works with our trucks, so Pac Audio it is!
I hadn't considered a dual amp system, but that would certainly work. The mounting board behind the back seat will have to contain the amp(s) and crossovers for the front K2's.
I don't mind going over in price, but not necessarily. I want to make sure I get something that I will be happy with. I'm still not sure about who will install it. A local shop I considered seems to be into show cars and neon and crap. N ot at all my taste.
I'll check out the subs you mentioned. Thanks!
I hadn't considered a dual amp system, but that would certainly work. The mounting board behind the back seat will have to contain the amp(s) and crossovers for the front K2's.
I don't mind going over in price, but not necessarily. I want to make sure I get something that I will be happy with. I'm still not sure about who will install it. A local shop I considered seems to be into show cars and neon and crap. N ot at all my taste.
I'll check out the subs you mentioned. Thanks!
You are correct about the Kenwood amp that is required with the iData Link interface. I don`t really care for it but the Rockford Fosgate version of the iData Link which is the DSR1 does not require the Kenwood amp. Any amp or amps can be used so that`s a plus. Also, when using either versions of the iData Link, the Sony amp can be removed from our vehicles. This might be a plus for many people but for me, I just don`t like RF products.
One major advantage of the PAC interface is that if you ever decide to add a processor, the PAC unit comes with a knock out port for an optional optical output
I just realized that you`re in Marietta. I`m in north Gwinnett in the Mall of Ga area.
Small world isn`t it. Lol
I have a feeling you might have been talking about Sound Sensations on Cobb Pkwy but I might be wrong.
No worries, there are a few competent shops in the Atlanta and surrounding areas who can do what you`re looking for without all of the flash.
#23
they tried the pac audio on my new system . nothing worked as factory . navigation , reverse warnings , cell phone nada . went with Rockford fosgate interface solved all the problems .at this time that's the only rout available . as the amp controles a lot of fuctions on the sync system .. beware .. theres a thread on here already details upgrading, dsr 1 from fosgate has some nice options also these systems .rf dsr 1 , arc audio 1200 /6 , morel tempo ultras components up front , morel tempos in the rear doors , and 2, 10 slim line jl audios subs , system rocks ,clean , and thousand times improvement over stock , now same for the duelly .
If your Ford vehicle is "NOT" equipped with the Premium Sony system, the PAC AmpPro will not work. It`s only for the Sony Premium System.
#24
Total for everything from Crutchfield was just over $900. Lots of little extras like speaker mount adapters, speaker wire adapters, some Dynamat for doors, etc adds up. I am actually pretty impressed with how well the 8" hits with just a better sub and some poly fill, suits my needs just fine. Low end as far as the speakers can be adjusted to your tastes. I have my setup where the rear doors are putting out low end to mid range sound and the front doors, tweeters, and center channel are putting out mid-range to high end. Seems to blend very well this way since the door speakers are so close together.
#25
You should probably start a separate thread as Sony and non-Sony are two completely different beasts. I've been looking into this, and non-Sony is a little easier since the chimes are integrated in the ACM (head unit). You will need a Parrot for-11ck harness and that will give you speaker level outputs for your amp. From there it is pretty standard.
I suspect, but have not confirmed, that the head unit removes some of the bass, the higher the volume, the more bass it removes. You have to dive in the deep end to get around this, search for FORScan. The part I am wrestling with right now is how to get a properly upmixed center channel, but for that, you need scuba gear!
#26
Here is what I put in my truck:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794HAR...mnews=14622500
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575DSR...mnews=14622500
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X80...on-X801-5.html
As far as I am aware the iDatalink Maestro harness is compatible with all Ford trucks with the Sony system. A few companies make replacement subs for people who wish to reuse the existing sub box, but it is definitely a shallow mount situation. Take the three plugs off the Sony amp and plug them into the Maestro harness. Two go from the new harness to the DSR1 and the third goes to the speaker outputs on the amp. Output RCAs on the DSR1 go to the inputs on the amp. Really easy to do since the plugs are color coordinated. Before you can use the DSR1 you have to use the included usb cable and plug it into you computer and update the firmware using the Rockford Fosgate DSR update software from their website. Once you do that you have to go to iDatalink's website and "flash" your DSR1 and input your desired settings. Only issue I had was that iDatalink's flash process uses ActiveX controls in your browser which aren't supported by any of the current browsers so you have to go old school Internet Explorer. In IE settings, remove any and all ActiveX blockers and safety features. The next big step after you have all your new speakers, sub, etc installed is to equalize your sound channels and such. You do this via the Rockford Perfect Tune app on your smartphone which connects to the DSR1 via bluetooth. I used a second smartphone with an RTA app on it to analyze a pink noise track I played in the truck via USB stick. This process took me about 2 hours to get everything adjusted to my tastes. There are plenty of online resources that can explain this process a lot better than I can.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794HAR...mnews=14622500
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575DSR...mnews=14622500
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X80...on-X801-5.html
As far as I am aware the iDatalink Maestro harness is compatible with all Ford trucks with the Sony system. A few companies make replacement subs for people who wish to reuse the existing sub box, but it is definitely a shallow mount situation. Take the three plugs off the Sony amp and plug them into the Maestro harness. Two go from the new harness to the DSR1 and the third goes to the speaker outputs on the amp. Output RCAs on the DSR1 go to the inputs on the amp. Really easy to do since the plugs are color coordinated. Before you can use the DSR1 you have to use the included usb cable and plug it into you computer and update the firmware using the Rockford Fosgate DSR update software from their website. Once you do that you have to go to iDatalink's website and "flash" your DSR1 and input your desired settings. Only issue I had was that iDatalink's flash process uses ActiveX controls in your browser which aren't supported by any of the current browsers so you have to go old school Internet Explorer. In IE settings, remove any and all ActiveX blockers and safety features. The next big step after you have all your new speakers, sub, etc installed is to equalize your sound channels and such. You do this via the Rockford Perfect Tune app on your smartphone which connects to the DSR1 via bluetooth. I used a second smartphone with an RTA app on it to analyze a pink noise track I played in the truck via USB stick. This process took me about 2 hours to get everything adjusted to my tastes. There are plenty of online resources that can explain this process a lot better than I can.
#28
You should probably start a separate thread as Sony and non-Sony are two completely different beasts. I've been looking into this, and non-Sony is a little easier since the chimes are integrated in the ACU (head unit). You will need a Parrot for-11ck harness and that will give you speaker level outputs for your amp. From there it is pretty standard.
I suspect, but have not confirmed, that the head unit removes some of the bass, the higher the volume, the more bass it removes. You have to dive in the deep end to get around this, search for FORScan. The part I am wrestling with right now is how to get a properly upmixed center channel, but for that, you need scuba gear!
I suspect, but have not confirmed, that the head unit removes some of the bass, the higher the volume, the more bass it removes. You have to dive in the deep end to get around this, search for FORScan. The part I am wrestling with right now is how to get a properly upmixed center channel, but for that, you need scuba gear!
#29
So I have an XL with 8" screen and sync. I wanted to put kicker 3 way 6x9 in front and kicker 6 3/4 in rear door. I was gonna get an used sony box from friend and put nicer sub in. I have a 450 4ch alpine for kickers and 100w alpine for sub. What else would I need or should I get....I see these harness they are talking about however I don't think I need but I did see something about a Parrot for -11ck harness??? Please advise if any info you can provide thx
Correct, the harness they are talking about won't work since you are non-Sony. Get the Parrot harness, pass signal through the 4-channel to the sub amp. I'm not entirely certain what will happen with the factory tweeter, but suspect it will be powered by the amp. I also suspect the center channel will not play.